Smoke on start up (not glow plugs)

[thompsoncustom]

no only replaced the bad one but have 3 other new OEM ones still in the box. I should see if I can just find another set of 4 and replace them all not worth pulling them all and putting power to them individually to test.

Added: I ordered a another set of 4 and will just replace all of them this time.

 

[REF]

When you pull the glow plugs, look closely and see if any of them look wet. The black on the end of the plug should look black dry and chalky. If not you could have a leaky injector on that cylinder which will cause smoke.

 

[thompsoncustom]

ok thanks I will do that.

checked the cold advance today and getting 24ish volts there with the wait light on.

also checked one plug on both sides of the engine and still getting 24v there.

will update when I get the new plugs in.

 

[thompsoncustom]

well replaced all the glow plugs with new ones today.

Good and bad news I guess. good news is I found another bad plug as I tested them all as I pulled them out. none of the plugs showed any signs of being wet.

bad news is it still smokes but only about half as much as it was.

not sure if it's related or not but fuel tank seems like it has positive pressure or not venting right. checked the vent on the fill tube with the air gun and the one under the hood by the air cleaner and they are clear but can't put fuel in it for more than a couple secs and it foams to the top of the tube than burps the foam out.

 

[thompsoncustom]

well looks like the start box may have been failing the whole time. went to start it today and wait light worked normally but voltage gauge did not.

won't start at all now and not getting any voltage to the plugs.

 

[TOBASH]

Can’t see how start box would cause smoke unless it was affecting fuel cut off switch somehow

 

[Mogman]

well looks like the start box may have been failing the whole time. went to start it today and wait light worked normally but voltage gauge did not.

won't start at all now and not getting any voltage to the plugs.

Makes sense to me, I will bet if you pull the cover off of the PCB you will find some fried components on the circuit board.
You are saying the volt meter does not show the usual drop in voltage as the glow plugs draw current from the batteries yes?

 

[thompsoncustom]

Can’t see how start box would cause smoke unless it was affecting fuel cut off switch somehow

Not sure why it was causing smoke maybe the glow plugs weren't getting power long enough?

Makes sense to me, I will bet if you pull the cover off of the PCB you will find some fried components on the circuit board.
You are saying the volt meter does not show the usual drop in voltage as the glow plugs draw current from the batteries yes?

Yes doesn't seem to be any draw now when the wait light is on the voltage gauge does not drop and I checked there is no power to the glow plugs. I will pull the PCB out and open her up and see what I can find.

 

[thompsoncustom]

pulled the PCB apart today and it looks brand new no signs of anything wrong. pulled the massive silver relay/solenoid for the glow plugs off and tested it I can hear it clicking just like it should.



so what else can cause the glow plugs not to work? bad temp sensor so it's not calling for heat?

 

[TOBASH]

Look carefully at the breadboard. I bet something is blown on that Nartron EESS.

 

[Mogman]

They don't have to blow up to fail but they usually do.

 

[thompsoncustom]

ya couldn't find a single thing burnt on that board looks brand spanking new. What controls the glow plug timing? maybe thats messed up internally?

as far as making it a manual glow plug controller is it really as simple as just robbing power from inside the box somewhere running it to a push button and back to the trigger on the side of the solenoid? That almost sound simpler than trying to figure out what is causing this headache.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Maybe you guys should pay for being a vendor instead of constantly pissing back and forth about your’re boxes.

 

[Mogman]

Maybe you guys should pay for being a vendor instead of constantly pissing back and forth about your’re boxes.

One of them is, but solicitation in the threads is not allowed, word of mouth from customers is allowed.
"
Vendor Participation:
Vendors of military vehicles, parts and other paraphernalia are welcome to participate in the SteelSoldiers.Com forums, but direct solicitation is not allowed. Vendors should be aware of and must follow the following policies:"

 

[TOBASH]

Maybe you guys should pay for being a vendor instead of constantly pissing back and forth about your’re boxes.

The Five/Six Ton forum is where they first started making PCB’s, and none of this negativity happened there. There was mutual respect and appreciation. I actually quoted their PCB bypass thread in the included thread about DIY repairs. And IIRC they were not “site sponsoring vendors”, and they offered their product openly on their forum for $200 just to cover costs. That sense of helping was why I pursued this topic on this forum. I was the one who got this ball rolling years ago for us in the HMMWV forum out of a sense of community. I enlisted CamO’s valuable help in designing an affordable alternative to crappy expensive glow plug controlers, as we had been friends. Miss my friend. Sorry about the negativity and complaints. That was never intended.

RWH is an amazing resource. None of my comments reflect on what he said.

How to bypass PCB? I am aware some HMMWV owners have done it. TOBASH

I'm not trying to speak sacrilege here, and I don't want to precipitate a war of words. :shock: How might I build a manual control box? My 24Volt Landcruiser just uses a glow wire to show glow plugs are ready, and then she just starts right up with the twist of a key. Civilian 6.2 Diesel...

www.steelsoldiers.com

mods, please PM me and feel free to remove this post.

 

[thompsoncustom]

you guys have been very helpful I am going take the box back out again tomorrow and hook up the solenoid to power by itself and make sure i can get power across it. If the solenoid is good I'm going to disconnect the trigger wire and make my own running from the power side of the solenoid to a momentary switch and then back to the trigger of the solenoid and see how that works.