So who has bumped the power on a 6CTA cummins

[74M35A2]

12mm P-7100 pump arrived today. This unit is proven to exceed 500hp in a Cummins 5.9L engine. Remember in the movie "Jaws" when he says "We're going to need a bigger boat."........

 

[Rmtaunton]

12mm P-7100 pump arrived today. This unit is proven to exceed 500hp in a Cummins 5.9L engine. Remember in the movie "Jaws" when he says "We're going to need a bigger boat."........

Really gonna follow this


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[Rmtaunton]

I hope you start a thread on this with lots of pictures and results


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[74M35A2]

I'll swap it this spring once warm. Will take pics, and then once successful, do a write up. Movies where the good guy dies in the end are not so popular.

I have some to learn yet. From the limited studying I have done so far, I believe it will fit and work with a few modifications. The 8.3L could be had with this pump in its higher HP configurations, so..... One of the main things I need to chase is how this pump feeds and dumps engine oil, compared to the MW pump. From what I think I understand (insert big question mark here), the MW gets lube from a passage in the timing gear case, but nobody talks about where it dumps oil, so I am assuming it just overflows into the front timing gear case also? I think the P pump is lubed via an external fed line, and that may have a restrictor in it? Does it discharge into the gear case also? I think? Ugh...........maybe?

Also need to check or compare fuel line nut size between the two.

Otherwise, this should be a go. I'll need to try different fuel plates like all the 5.9L crowd does, sliding them forward, AFC tuning, and all that jazz, but if I can make it work, with the larger injectors, front mount full size Volvo charge air cooler (thanks 4xdesign), advanced timing (16 degrees, thanks RV crowd), and an HX50 turbo, she should scoot pretty good. There is a whole other book on delivery valve sizing also. UGH !!!! I am going for little to no smoke storms, so will take a lot of dialing in to get that from what I hear. I'll even sacrifice a little power to have a clean exhaust at steady speed to keep my rep and our MV reputations somewhat friendly. Some smoke on hard acceleration will be accepted.

Scored the pump for free from LKQ, traded them a few brand new 12V Delco 160A brushless alternators we bought to benchmark and were going to scrap (for sale cheap if anybody wants one, 4 bolt pad mount). Good deal both ways. They wanted $375 for this pump which was a steal to begin with.

Always an open ear for anybody with related experience under their belt, even in the 5.9L crowd. Patracy? Others?

 

[red]

You didn't turn me onto the P pump.

Show me high output 5.9L's running a 10mm MW pump. Those guys pour gobs of $ into their engines, and none are using it.

The power-up comes from a 12mm P-7100 pump injecting more fuel, much sooner. A 10mm MW pump can be increased, but it will also greatly increase the duration of the inject, and therefore increase EGT and smoke. I'm not sure, but an MW pump may be limited to approximately 300hp. 12mm P-7100 pump are dyno'ing over 400hp at the wheel, and higher, especially once the delivery valves are changed to 191's or 024's.

It is a blast to watch different people try different things. Grendel is much more motivated than myself. I have a metal pile of dreams, he actually gets things done.

If you like your pump, you can keep your pump.

The P pump is better, but currently there is not enough air to meet the max fuel of the stock MW pump.

 

[74M35A2]

Also being addressed. Larger turbo, different intake (remove restrictive after-cooler), and front mount full size Volvo charge air cooler like 4xDesign did, factory sized for a 14L Detroit Diesel Series 60 engine.

 

[Ford Mechanic]

Failed experiments are still good data, and we still like hearing about the adventures of our resident mad scientists! I've been watching very intently all these mods.

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[74M35A2]

It will also be know as "The pump that kicked grendel's a#@".

 

[Bandit02]

IIRC when I changed out the p-pump on my old 94' 12v I remember there being a oil line on the bottom of the pump housing. I "think" it's a pressure line and then it dumps back into the engine through the front gear housing.

 

[grendel]

It will also be know as "The pump that kicked grendel's a#@".

Bring it, ye one disco ball wonder .

You'll still be talking about this and a trans swap in 2020. I am driving my truck now.



If you're swapping turbos, get away from the archaic/expensive Holset line.

Besides, the MW pump still has more fuel than the HX50 has air. HX50 is still 5.9L territory.

For those new to me:

I went with a GT366SXE turbo, air to air intake, air to air charge air cooler in a 3" intake/output, 1200CFM air filter under hood, 6 hole injectors built for my motor, 17 degrees of timing... and I still have more fuel from my MW. May stick the GT366SXE on a different project and go bigger.

I also bobbed my truck and modified the transfer case to get rid of complexity and increase the odds of keeping my transfer case alive with a 400 + hp engine.

 

[mbent1911]

Watching

 

[MAdams]

I am still wanting to increase the injection timing and was looking through ebay for misc parts. There are several MW pumps for sale and they all have a tapered shaft with a woodruff key. I was under the impression the tapered shaft was the only thing securing the pump gear to the pump shaft. If there is a woodruff key, how do you adjust the clocking of the gear? Skip a tooth?

 

[74M35A2]

The key slot is just there to confuse you. It is not used. Taper fit to gear. Your thinking is correct, pull gear, back up 8 degrees, re-install, should give you 16 degrees. Can confirm with spill port timing method, easy to do.

 

[74M35A2]

I scored a second 12mm P-7100 injection pump, gear, lines, and intake, from an intercooled civilian 8.3L. This reefer truck also has an awfully cute Yanmar 3 cylinder liquid cooled diesel engine in the chiller unit.

I'm now studying the pump oiling path, and need to understand how it is done on the MW pump, and if the mounting pattern is same as a P-7100. If anybody has their pump off, please get ahold of me. Thanks.

BTW: A Harbor Freight steering wheel puller works perfectly to pull the injection pump driven gear, even including the correct bolts.

 

[tobyS]

I scored a second 12mm P-7100 injection pump, gear, lines, and intake, from an intercooled civilian 8.3L. This reefer truck also has an awfully cute Yanmar 3 cylinder liquid cooled diesel engine in the chiller unit.

I'm now studying the pump oiling path, and need to understand how it is done on the MW pump, and if the mounting pattern is same as a P-7100. If anybody has their pump off, please get ahold of me. Thanks.

BTW: A Harbor Freight steering wheel puller works perfectly to pull the injection pump driven gear, even including the correct bolts.

View attachment 673317View attachment 673318View attachment 673319

Snag onto that Yanmar and I'll help you make it a pony (hydraulic) engine. I've done it to my Isuzu C240.

 

[74M35A2]

The reefer engine units are specific and obscure. It has a gigantic oil pan that hangs down below it as an appendage, holds gallons of oil (and only a 650cc engine). This is because it runs continuously, is 10' in the air, and they know will never get checked or changed again. That makes it hard to mount onto anything conventional. Also, they are single speed governors, either 1800rpm or 2200rpm. Can change governor and oil pan to conventional, but takes more $ to do so. It has 7,700 hours on it. I know Kubota rates theirs to 10,000 hour life expectancy. I would expect their Japanese competitor to be same. Plus my 925a2 has an on-demand hydro system already, stock. The Yanmar will get shredded unless somebody absolutely has to have it and offers me big bucks to take a vacation day to remove it for them. It is a self contained unit, radiator, etc....all in one. Thermo King seems like a very high quality manufacturer. Their compressor almost seems carved of billet. Very heavy shafts, bearings, etc..... I'm temped to grab the entire unit as A/C for my garage. If I did not live in a subdivision, I would have no problem running it.

 

[74M35A2]

So I ended up grabbing the 8.3L engine, 6 speed manual Eaton trans, and 3 banger Yanmar from the above vehicle. Engine is for sale as a rebuildable core or parts if anybody needs. Price in classifieds. Would consider selling the Yanmar also.

I really just wanted the manual trans setup which was hooked to the 8.3L.

 

[aziator]

Just finished installing 3k springs and adjusting the full rack screw and the low boost. Full rack was adjusted to where the small 10mm nut is a little more than half threaded on. I took the low boost screw 2 turns. Truck also has 5" exhaust off the turbo and dumps right in front of the forward rear axle. Intake was modded with a donaldson scoop off a LMTV and the filter kit sold by Those Military Guys (restriction gauge in cab never moves now, used to show halfway after a day of driving).

The truck is a completely different animal now. If I give it full throttle from the start I get about 1 second of smoke then boost kicks in and clears it up. Boost is a solid 28 PSI with 30 seen before the shift. If I stay in the throttle my EGT is at 1200 by 40 MPH on flat road. More than manageable temps in my book (been driving and towing with a modded diesel over the past 11 years so I am good with watching temps).

If you are on the fence, I would do it. I started with the intake mods, then got the exhaust how I wanted it. Gauges came next and fuel was increased last.

Now, need to figure out this timing thing...

 

[Mos68x]

I finally pulled the trigger and increased my fuel. I increased gov springs by 2 turns, max load screw by 2.5, and excess fuel by 3. I wanted to adjust the rack travel as well, but I've got one of those tamper proof screws holding the cover on and need to figure out how to remove it first. All of this was in an attempt to get her to reach at least 70mph. Took it for a test drive yesterday after I finished. Down low the power is a little better, but once the turbo kicks in it really takes off. I still haven't assessed the new top speed since the road I was on was too bumpy for faster than 60. Now it doesn't take absolutely forever before she will shift, that was the other main reason I turned up the fuel. I plan on starting a water hauling business soon and would be moving up to 22,000# of water, so the lack of engine power is completely unacceptable while I'm trying to climb a mountain to get to someone.

 

[aziator]

I finally pulled the trigger and increased my fuel. I increased gov springs by 2 turns, max load screw by 2.5, and excess fuel by 3. I wanted to adjust the rack travel as well, but I've got one of those tamper proof screws holding the cover on and need to figure out how to remove it first. All of this was in an attempt to get her to reach at least 70mph. Took it for a test drive yesterday after I finished. Down low the power is a little better, but once the turbo kicks in it really takes off. I still haven't assessed the new top speed since the road I was on was too bumpy for faster than 60. Now it doesn't take absolutely forever before she will shift, that was the other main reason I turned up the fuel. I plan on starting a water hauling business soon and would be moving up to 22,000# of water, so the lack of engine power is completely unacceptable while I'm trying to climb a mountain to get to someone.

What kind of EGTs were you seeing?