So who has bumped the power on a 6CTA cummins

[Carlo]

I opened up the muffler and picked up allot more bottom end Power. Both my A2's run warm. I would be a little concerned for higher temps.

 

[Suprman]

Did you just hollow it out or remove and put a straight pipe in? Is it much louder?
Will

 

[Carlo]

Hey Will. I wish I could add a straight pipe but parts stores here with these measurements are not easy to find. Companies like Iowa 80 sell pipes and adapters but shipping would kill the project so cut the muffler in half and emptied it then welded it back together. Sound is mellow. Deeper. Noted torque increase. I have 2 923A2's so I can really note the difference. I do believe a 7 plus inch ( 4 inch adapter to 7 in) straight pipe would help more.

 

[seano11]

You guys think I'd be fine turning up the fuel without adding a pyro ?

 

[patracy]

You guys think I'd be fine turning up the fuel without adding a pyro ?

I personally don't like the thoughts of having a diesel without a pyro period.

 

[Carlo]

Well said advise.

 

[Suprman]

2-3 turns on the fuel screw yes you would be ok I have been fine with that along with 2 clicks on each of the
gov springs works well for me without going overboard.

 

[seano11]

I might try a turn or 2 my 931 sucks starting in the cold and it's a brand new truck. Where my 923 fires up almost instantly kinda thinking the fuel may be turned up a bit in the 923

 

[Suprman]

I have found in the cold if you leave the power switch on for 30 seconds or so it seems to help. I dont believe turning up the fuel will. I had one the batteries were a little weak and it would crank and crank but no go in the cold but with a slave jump it would fire right up.

 

[those military guys rob]

I forgot to add the other easy adjustment. This gives a little more travel for the rack overall, and hopefully less smoke. Just pull the tin cover off from the 2 bolts, and back out the screw in the middle(all the way CCW) with a 3mm allen wrench.

Ok does anyone what size is the screw closes to the block meaning is it a alen or torx or something else I can't find anything to fit it the one farthest from the block is a flat head screw driver. But the other I can't figure out????
Help Help
Thanks
Rob

 

[nevrenufhp]

It's a tamper proof screw. You have to ruin it to get it off. The head is smooth and round. A chisel can work to make a slot, until you can get a screwdriver in there to take it out. Then, you can replace it with a new 4mm coarse thread screw/bolt.

 

[lakeydna]

Holy moley, how'd I miss this one! Nice cummins swap. What twin setup is that? Looks like the secondary is a S400 variant.

It's actually a pair of s300's. Runs like stink. Twins are really the way to go, every truck I've twinned you don't have to pull your foot out due to high egts. Just speed lol.

 

[HETvet]

The stock turbo is a Holset W1HE, possibly a HX40. If you wanted to stay single turbo, I would suggest a BatMo drop in compressor wheel (60mm size). This will replace your stock compressor wheel, flowing more air at less boost pressure. It also helps keep EGTs in check. Header wrap every thing from the head to the turbo to speed up the spooling time. With out spending big bucks, that's about as good as your going to get. On a 5.9 12 valve truck, this wheel gave a 45 whp increase while dropping the EGTs by 200 degrees.
I would also straight pipe the truck if I could using 4-5 inch pipes. Should further lower EGTs and make spool up a little faster. Getting some sort of charge air cooler in there is a must, especially seeing how much boost pressures this thing is running.

 

[those military guys rob]

It's a tamper proof screw. You have to ruin it to get it off. The head is smooth and round. A chisel can work to make a slot, until you can get a screwdriver in there to take it out. Then, you can replace it with a new 4mm coarse thread screw/bolt.

Thank you nevrnufhp that is what I was thinking but didn't want to ruin it and find out it was a simple tool.

 

[HETvet]

how about this for an aftercooler? Titan X Charge Air Cooler P/N 3827870.

 

[lakeydna]

No pic?

 

[lakeydna]

They already have an air/water intercooler in the intake, easiest thing to do is to separate it from the entire coolant system. Little rad up front, small reservoir and 12v or 24v pump for circulation. The intercooler on these engines is very similar if not the same as the marine versions and they crank out 450 hp (if i remember correct) biggest difference is they have a whole lot of cold sea water to use (25 C or less temp) and these trucks are using hot coolant albiet coming from the cold side of the rad but the transmission heat exhanger is there, they have a hot water bypass in the thermostat housing, I've never put a temp gun to it but I'd bet the water temp going into the intercooler is close to 60-70 C. Having a separate cooling system could bring that temp down to ambient or just below.

 

[lakeydna]

[h=1]Water to Air Intercooler Radiator - 24x12x1[/h]

 

[lakeydna]

Did some checking to back up the words. An A2 style intercooler can only be found on engines up to 300 hp, the 450 hp intercoolers are different.

 

[HETvet]

interesting. I didn't know that. I'm just trying to come up with some ideas to get some power out of the motor for those that are looking. A separate after cooler would be ideal. A closed loops system with an efficient heat exchanger and a large volume of coolant in the system.