Sounds like a misfire please help!

[Domterry12]

Are you still using known clean fuel in your can or did you hook it back up to the stock tank that could have bad fuel?

I’m using the tank again but verified that the tank wasn’t an issue. Plus. Never stalled once. As soon as I put the reman pump on it’s doing this .

Sounds like a sticking metering valve.

In the far past. I used Berryman B12 spray cleaner to remove the varnish on metering valves. It works BUT it must never be used through the pump or into the engine. Now I use Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle, just as aggressive as the acetone-methanol-toluene of B12 yet can be used through all parts of the injection system. For DB2 metering valve, take the 3 screws off the governor cover, remove as much fuel and replace with Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle. Flip the metering valve a few times and let it sit overnight.

I read in another post it was a sticking metering valve. Sucks because I just ordered this pump and has 8/22 stamped into the side. What do the have me on the shelf and then stamp them when they sell? Ugh. Stupid question but when I open the top and drain the diesel. Looking from the front bumper . Where is the metering valve . I don’t know what it looks like

 

[nyoffroad]

Did you ever change the lift pump?

 

[Domterry12]

I’m using the tank again but verified that the tank wasn’t an issue. Plus. Never stalled once. As soon as I put the reman pump on it’s doing this .

I read in another post it was a sticking metering valve. Sucks because I just ordered this pump and has 8/22 stamped into the side. What do the have me on the shelf and then stamp them when they sell? Ugh. Stupid question but when I open the top and drain the diesel. Looking from the front bumper . Where is the metering valve . I don’t know what it looks like

Also, just to say I have the clear line on the return. And I have solid fuel, no air at all. Could it still be a sticking metering valve. And also, when I take the governor cover off and drain it and fill it with mechanic in a bottle, which is the metering valve and is their a trick to Putting the cover back on? I read something about metal fingers?

 

[Keith_J]

Metering valves can get varnished quickly with bad fuel and air. It doesn't take much as the fit is very precise. Clean metal from a new rebuild is the problem as most transitional metals are oxidation catalysts for fatty acids. See Japan Drier additive for linseed oil based paints, it is a cobalt salt. Anyhow, biodiesel is made from methyl Ester of fatty acids.

The metering valve is in the back center, roll the throttle shaft to see it move. Note how the ETR solenoid in the cover pushes the metering valve closed through the governor arm.

When replacing the cover, drop it on the pump about a half inch forward, then slide it back so the solenoid fingers catch the governor arm and push it back.

 

[Domterry12]

Metering valves can get varnished quickly with bad fuel and air. It doesn't take much as the fit is very precise.

The metering valve is in the back center, roll the throttle shaft to see it move. Note how the ETR solenoid in the cover pushes the metering valve closed through the governor arm.

When replacing the cover, drop it on the pump about a half inch forward, then slide it back so the solenoid fingers catch the governor arm and push it back.

Thank you very much. I was just reading about sticking metering valves after you mentioned it and the symptoms are a match. What a shame I spend 500 on a rebuild and gotta do this. Ordering diesel mechanic in a bottle because no stores stock on the shelf near me

 

[Keith_J]

Home Depot carries the gasoline variant. My original dealer sold out so I had to buy a gallon of it.

The good news is once treated, the metering valve should be resistant to oxidation. I added to my post on the chemistry causes with a freshly overhauled IP. Biodiesel contaminated with small amount of water reacts with fresh metal and oxygen, making varnish on the fresh metal.

Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle is a detergent which dissolves most varnish fast and can safely travel through the injection system. I've used it on all brands of injection systems from AMBAC on M35 series multifuel to Bosch V series. Even used on diesel pistons during full overhaul. Cleans the ring grooves and crowns to like new. Only the ash from the injection nozzles remained.

 

[Domterry12]

Home Depot carries the gasoline variant. My original dealer sold out so I had to buy a gallon of it.

The good news is once treated, the metering valve should be resistant to oxidation. I added to my post on the chemistry causes with a freshly overhauled IP. Biodiesel contaminated with small amount of water reacts with fresh metal and oxygen, making varnish on the fresh metal.

Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle is a detergent which dissolves most varnish fast and can safely travel through the injection system. I've used it on all brands of injection systems from AMBAC on M35 series multifuel to Bosch V series. Even used on diesel pistons during full overhaul. Cleans the ring grooves and crowns to like new. Only the ash from the injection nozzles remained.

I’m gonna order it from Home Depot actually. Will be here Tuesday

 

[Domterry12]

Update, opened top of pump. Metering valve isn’t snappy at all, stayed were it was put essentially. Everything felt very loose in there. Filled with diesel mechanic in a bottle and let sit over night. Started it and 2% better, still worse than before. Company sending me another pump, and I have to do ALL that labor again. Wonderful. Going to order injectors too while I’m at it, just so this truck takes all my money.

 

[ezgn]

Update, opened top of pump. Metering valve isn’t snappy at all, stayed were it was put essentially. Everything felt very loose in there. Filled with diesel mechanic in a bottle and let sit over night. Started it and 2% better, still worse than before. Company sending me another pump, and I have to do ALL that labor again. Wonderful. Going to order injectors too while I’m at it, just so this truck takes all my money.

Bummer, second time around you will be a pro. Sorry for your troubles. When it is all said and done you will have positive results. Something good always comes from our trials. Hang in there. What company did you use for the I.P. if you don't mind me asking?

 

[Domterry12]

Bummer, second time around you will be a pro. Sorry for your troubles. When it is all said and done you will have positive results. Something good always comes from our trials. Hang in there. What company did you use for the I.P. if you don't mind me asking?

Yea, really sucks. Was a ton of labor , and not comfortable labor lol. I used Pensacola fuel injection. I really hope so. I’m getting discouraged.

 

[Keith_J]

Ouch. Could be assembly error and they contaminated the valve with fingerprints, causing surface rust. This valve should be very free to move with the cover off. It should move with the throttle shaft. At idle, it needs to be slightly open and easily closed with finger pressure simulating the ETR solenoid. Likewise, it should open slightly with simulating finger pressure removed.

It is best to handle IP parts with nitrile gloves to prevent corrosion. Or hands wet with clean diesel.

 

[cucvrus]

I have ask this before and you may have answered. Did you go front to back on the fuel system? I mean in the tank and trace every feed line and every return line. Few times do I do a major repair and change major parts only to find that the pre-existing issue is still present with the same symptoms as before I changed all the parts and spent all the money. Fuel sock in tank. Pinched return line. I found a 1/4" pop rivet clamped in a return line and that was done by the US Army. Just asking so it don't matter who rebuilds the injection pump. It may have other issues. Clogged return lines or fuel system issues. 5 COMMON SYMPTOMS OF FAULTY DIESEL FUEL INJECTORS | Gem State Diesel & Turbo Repair Good Luck. I hope you get this worked out soon.

 

[Domterry12]

@Keith_J it was my first time looking inside an injection pump. But everything just felt loose, and not right. When touching the metering valve it did move, but kinda stayed where I put it. I was assuming it would kinda be like snappy as if it was spring loaded. Like when u move the throttle and it snaps back when you let it go. Also when actuating the throttle I saw no movement of the metering valve. And just to make sure, I ordered the pump no EGR for J code 6.2, the db4544 heavy duty. (I don’t tell them military because they are stupid and think it’s 24v fuel shut off)

 

[Domterry12]

@cucvrus I ran off a jug and bypassed the tank, by passed fuel filter, tested lift pump, changed rubber lines with no change. How would I know if a return line is clogged. I have a clear line on the return of the IP and the fuel seems to flow through it into the return line smoothly

 

[cucvrus]

I understand what you are saying. I am just puzzled that the same issues is still present with new major parts installed. Could it be the timing chain? I never dealt with that as most of the vehicles I dealt with were years newer and less mileage then what is coming on market now. And back then the vehicles I learned on were basically unmolested or if they were it was visible issues that were clear. Good Luck again I don't have the answer definitively.

 

[Domterry12]

I understand what you are saying. I am just puzzled that the same issues is still present with new major parts installed. Could it be the timing chain? I never dealt with that as most of the vehicles I dealt with were years newer and less mileage then what is coming on market now. And back then the vehicles I learned on were basically unmolested or if they were it was visible issues that were clear. Good Luck again I don't have the answer definitively.

I don’t believe it’s the timing chain because It idles well starts well and has no engine noise when running at high rpm. Today I’m gonna do a compression test before I order injectors, just to make sure the engine is mechanically sound. But inreally think it’s fuel delivery. And injectors is the last thing it could be

 

[Domterry12]

Update. Just finished compression test. Seems everything is good so I can rule out dead cylinder nothing below 400psi…..only question is, after testing all cylinders and cranking with all plugs out, the rearmost passenger glow plug hole had a decent amount of oil (or sludge) coming out of it with a small puddle on the floor. Is this normal? Does the glow plug sit in the combustion chamber or in the head?

 

[Keith_J]

Update. Just finished compression test. Seems everything is good so I can rule out dead cylinder nothing below 400psi…..only question is, after testing all cylinders and cranking with all plugs out, the rearmost passenger glow plug hole had a decent amount of oil (or sludge) coming out of it with a small puddle on the floor. Is this normal? Does the glow plug sit in the combustion chamber or in the head?

Did you disable the injection pump by removing the pink wire? Because that oil would be diesel with soot.

The glow plug and injector are in the precombustion chamber, a small spherical chamber in the head. The injector sprays onto the glow plug which induces a swirling flame in this chamber. A small orifice about 3/8 by 1/4 inch connects this chamber to the main combustion chamber.

 

[royalflush55]

That is probably unburned diesel mixed with carbon because that injector may not be spraying correctly. That could be your miss!

 

[Domterry12]

Did you disable the injection pump by removing the pink wire? Because that oil would be diesel with soot.

The glow plug and injector are in the precombustion chamber, a small spherical chamber in the head. The injector sprays onto the glow plug which induces a swirling flame in this chamber. A small orifice about 3/8 by 1/4 inch connects this chamber to the main combustion chamber.

Yes that’s a better description. Sooty diesel. Not oil. Yes I did disable the pink wire. So maybe it was whatever fuel was in the line but just thought it was odd that only that back left hole was pushing it out. But cylinder tested perfect so I’m sure it’s fine.
I just wanted to be sure I didn’t have adead cylinder or stuck valve or something like some had suggested. Definitely fueling issue. Another IP and a set of injectors are on their way.