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Source for under hood jack storage

riderdan

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OK, now I've got real problems. :) Not only do I have this giant green thing in my driveway, I'm figuring out all the nifty stuff I need to buy to bring it back to a "more-like-it-was-issued" state.

Ordered a fire hydrant for the bracket next to the driver's seat. Buying some steel to make my own airlift bumper. Buying tools for the pioneer tool rack. Seat belt kit for the back seats. Radio tray. Plus, the stuff I need to get it to pass inspection: license plate holder and light, backup lights, etc. My wife's definitely going to think the humvee's another woman!

One thing I remember is that the jack and associated tools was stored under the hood. Not that fancy new-fangled bogert thing those spoiled kids get these days. A man's jack from back when we had to push humvees into the motorpool, uphill both ways! Anyway, I'm wondering if there's a source for those... I searched the usual suspects (ePay, a couple surplus sites) but couldn't locate anything more than the jack/tools and a cover. Ideally I'd like to have the whole thing. Any ideas?
 

MWMULES

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I have a couple of these first model HMMWV jacks left with the folding handle in CARC $35 plus actual shipping or come over to the east side of the state and pick one up.
hmmwvjack.jpg hmmwvhand.jpg
 
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NormB

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I think you're looking for this: 232292723537 over on the evil web auction site.

I got one through the seller months ago, had to make clamp hardware (buy bolts, drill holes, tap holes, buy LONG threaded bolts, "weld" in place with loctite red, make plates, wing nuts). It's all shown in Figure 261 in 24P-1 parts manual, maybe you could order them. I have a mill, lathe, didn't take more than an hour to whip those parts up from what I had on-hand. I THINK the cross-bolts are 5/16. I used nylock nuts to hold them in place.


It's a LITTLE awkward getting this unit to bolt up to the inside of the wheel well. The bolt holding the top into the airlift tower was stripped, I used a larger bolt and loctite to hold in place. Have a rivnut for it, just no need to replace it just yet. I'll get around to it.

Definitely frees up some space on the floor (which is the space used by the fire extinguisher when using the upgraded seats anyway).

Good luck.
 

juanprado

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Lid Clasp question

I have a question on how does the lid's latches clasp? What do they bite into?

My lid 12480538 which I gather is the same as 12446998 as it shares the same nsn 2590-01-410-8791?

I see the lid looks like the clasps can be riveted in 2 different spots? Do I need to just move the clasps upward and they just clamp the lip of the jack bracket?
 

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NormB

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I have a question on how does the lid's latches clasp? What do they bite into?
My lid 12480538 which I gather is the same as 12446998 as it shares the same nsn 2590-01-410-8791?
I see the lid looks like the clasps can be riveted in 2 different spots? Do I need to just move the clasps upward and they just clamp the lip of the jack bracket?
You know the tabs riveted to the commander's seat/battery box? Same thing. That jack mounting plate that bolts up to the lift tower and right side spash shield SHOULD have two of those tabs on top to pair up with the "hooks".

I'd take a picture of mine, but truck's in the garage and it's a real pain in the tuchus getting around it to pop the hood.
 

NormB

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Dropped fuel tank today, not a lot of stuff in the bottom, some paint chips (?), a little water (probably from me cleaning the outside), some grit/dirt, cleaned up nice. Old time sender with ping-pong ball on arm inside (have new on hand), sock is so clogged I can't see light through it (new on order), top gasket, of course, is crumbs. Parts on order from HPG it.

Questions:

1 - anyone use sealant on the breather grommet? and

2 - new sender lacks number tags. Any easy way of figuring out what the "ground" side is? I figure with good connections, I can plug everything in, turn on the power and see if the fuel gauge reads ZERO or FULL, switch leads as needed before I button it up. [good time/idea to cut that access hole while I've got everything apart]


I was wondering how I'd keep the rubber padding in place, was thinking of 3M adhesive but PFC Skippy showed me how to use duct tape to get it done. I'll use adhesive.

LOT of space under there to get the transfer case back in, but in a couple weeks when I get back from TN. Just gotta get some sealant on the case/tranny and lift it into place.

Hint: When reinstalling the shifter control rod - I pulled mine, it wasn't connected right - the thickness of the arm on the transmission and the one of the end of the hand control are different. This may matter if you disassemble it. I fought for about twenty minutes trying to get a cotter pin back in place and finally tore it down, switched the trunions and it went together EZPZ. Same 3/8 washer thickness. Cleaned, zinc parkerized and sprayed it down with zinc primer last night (why not), whole box is smooth as silk now having torn it apart/lubed it last week.

Last picture is of one of the rivnuts I'd placed for holding down the tunnel board/insulation. I'll hit those with some corrosion-proofing while they're exposed. Was good to see how well they'd cinched up.

IMG_0130.jpgIMG_0135.jpgIMG_0133.jpgIMG_0134.jpg
 

ohiohmmwv

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I have a question on how does the lid's latches clasp? What do they bite into?

My lid 12480538 which I gather is the same as 12446998 as it shares the same nsn 2590-01-410-8791?

I see the lid looks like the clasps can be riveted in 2 different spots? Do I need to just move the clasps upward and they just clamp the lip of the jack bracket?
Let me know if you need more pics or different angles.
 

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juanprado

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Thanks for the pics. From your pics and internet research, I came to the following conclusion. Norm, I think you have original and Ohio, I think you have A2.

I believe there are 2 different jack plates and lids and I have a mis match. I have an a2 mount with an original lid. The original mount has clasps catches and uses the lid with the latches mounted further up. The a2 mount has no catches and uses the lip. The lid has the latches at the end of the lid.

Tomorrow, I will grind off the rivets, drill 2 new holes in the spots already marked on the plastic close to the end and see if the clasps will catch. I am hoping the latches are the same. Will update tomorrow. Have to work tonight.
 

NormB

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Thanks for the pics. From your pics and internet research, I came to the following conclusion. Norm, I think you have original and Ohio, I think you have A2.
I believe there are 2 different jack plates and lids and I have a mis match. I have an a2 mount with an original lid. The original mount has clasps catches and uses the lid with the latches mounted further up. The a2 mount has no catches and uses the lip. The lid has the latches at the end of the lid.
Found pics on my iphone that might help:

IMG_3330.jpgIMG_3329.jpg
 

juanprado

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I did get a chance Sun to complete this project. I ground the rivets off the clasps, drilled new 3/16 holes towards the end where the casting mark circles where and reattached the clasps using #10 machine screws as I did not have any 3/16 rivets on hand. All is good. Took pics and I will try to post later as not on me.
 

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ohiohmmwv

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I wonder if there are really two different model types or are some of the covers that are for sale out there just factory rejects that bolted the clasps on the wrong position?
 

juanprado

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I think they are 2 different designs. My bracket did not have any clasps on it. No weld marks or holes etc to indicate it ever had a clasp like Norm or the ones on epay.

I found a vague reference on parts target to one of the nsn's I researched that there was an issue with the clasp.
 

aslemmer

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California
I know this is an old thread, but I recently installed a NOS jack carrier and when I removed the foam packing from the clamps I realized there was no hardware included.

Other than going to the hardware store and bubba’ing some clamp hardware together, is there a known good source for the correct hardware?

thanks in advance.
Adam
 

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