• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Squibbly's M1009 and other Questionable Projects

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
This will be my journal on my M1009 resto if anyone is interested in my experience as a non-mechanic.

Having been inspired by my much older and uglier brother who is a member of this forum (heh heh), I went out and found a M1009 CUCV. My bother is a former Marine who worked in the Motor-T during desert storm, while I went off to the Air Force and worked on F-16s. I knew he knew a lot about these vehicles, currently owns two (M1008 and M1028 ). and has brought many vehicles back from the dead over the years. Since my brother and I are older now, live in different states and rarely have occasion to speak, it seemed like a good project. So I embarked on a journey to find a CUCV and located one on Facebook within minutes, and only about 40 minutes from my house.

When I went to view the vehicle from the PO, it was clear that he knew nothing about the vehicle.
A few giveaways.
He had no idea how many batteries were in it.
He told me it had AC, but it needed recharged.
He was using it to store his trash that clearly had not been picked up from his house in weeks.
The vehicle wouldn't start (slow crank from 12 year old batteries) so he got out and sprayed some starter fluid into the air box.

As I walked around the truck and analyzed the "visual" damage, there was very little rust. The passenger side rocker needs some work, there is a small rust hole in the cab roof the size of a nickel, and a dent in the door. The rear window wouldn't roll up and the crank was missing. The PO just yanked the window up with his hands to get it to go half way. All fixable items. Frame was solid.

Parking gear is non-existent, finding the other gears was a chore, the lack of transmission fluid potentially explaining some of it.

Once started and driving, it seemed solid enough and was switching gears. So engine turns, transmission kind of works.

As I looked over the truck again the truck stared back at me with a "help me...please..for the love of God.." look in it's headlights, so I had to liberate it. The PO had "lost" the title even though he had only had it a few months, so there was that issue to contend with. I found the previous owners registration, located her on facebook, and she graciously took a copy of a title transfer to get it notarized and sent it back to me, so situation handled.

Once I got it home and could do a semi-real inspection a few things I noted (along with face timing with bro).

Almost no oil.
Fuel pump was leaking like a sieve and hard fuel line from pump had a pin hole leak, which I found after my brother told me to change out the small rubber line going into the fuel pump on top of the intake manifold with some clear line to look for bubbles indicating a leak.
Front and back of oil pan leaking. (My guess was oil pan gasket in the front and rear main seal in the back)
Oil leaking out of torque converter inspection cover.
Voltage gauge doesn't work.
Shift indicator broken.
Turn signal lever not catching.
Rear windows only goes half way up because the regulator gears are stripped.
Manual glow-plug switch and no glow plug card.
Breather tube to the front axle (diff) snapped off.

...and of course noticing all of the cool items in the truck that you don't see on everyday vehicles (M16 rack, plates, blackouts).


So again I stood there looking at my hands that looked like I had dipped them into black paint, and came to the conclusion "My wife is gonna be pissed when she gets home and see this", and this put a smile on my face. In a surprise reversal she actually liked it and wanted me to fix it up, which is a first.

My very first purchase was Dickies blues, and boxes of Borax and Washing soda, because let's face it, the wife isn't going to be so kind if I F up her laundry.

Then some brand new 1000 CCA NAPA Commercial Batteries. The ones that were in the truck were 12 years old and had about 200 CCA left.

Off to harbor freight I went to get the torque wrenches I'd need for the first job (Rear main seal). That went relatively smooth, once you realize just how much force you can put on the transmission lines (as well as the angle to pull them from) to get them out of the way of the inspection cover. I noticed while I was taking down the inspection cover that there was a crack in it directly over the starter. Looking at the starter (and a quick check with the bro), and I realized the starter bracket had never been reattached and was shoved up above the starter a millimeter from the positive terminal (yikes), so that needed to come out and get done right.

Interestingly when I pulled the main bearing, I noticed a black, oily rope like item hanging out of where the rear main seal should be that had mostly disintegrated. My brother informed me of something called a "rope seal" although he had never seen one used in this application. They are usually installed on much older trucks.

I noticed that the flex plate teeth (the ones I could see) looked kind of worn, and I suspected that all the grinding from the PO's low batteries were the cause, but figured I'd be fine for now.

Once the rear main seal was done, new gasket put on, and everything bolted back up, I moved on to the fuel pump.

This was actually difficult for me, until I read CUCVRUS post located here with the advice from another forum member:
Mechanical fuel pump replacement | SteelSoldiers

You really do want to remove that Gen2, because the angles to get to the fuel pump bolts are horrible if you don't, not to mention you'll be able to throw some grease on the pivots for your generator to make it easier to tighten those belts.
I used a 1/4 ratchet, with a 1/4 swivel that I taped with electricians tape to firm it up, and a 7/16 socket.

Of course the push rod dropped down to the mounting plate so I had to pull that off because the push rod got wedged. Do the grease trick on the push rod and shove it back into its hole, then put on the new fuel pump (MAKE SURE YOU BUY THE CORRECT PUMP, THE ONE WITHOUT THE VISIBLE SPRING UNDER THE LEVER). Once I took the generator off it was much much easier to install than it was to take off.

On to the broken fuel line. Once I realized I would have to take the intake manifold off to replace that, I decided *for now* to just bend up a smaller hard line and use rubber for the rest so I could get the rubber line under the intake manifold and attached to the fuel filter (I still have the original square filter).

Time to crank it up. A 10 second push on the glow plug switch, and a turn of the key and the truck fired right up (which was suprising because I didn't even bleed the fuel line)...then died 10 seconds later.

I opened the air bleed line and cranked a few more time then suddenly a rough grinding noise...
Uh oh. What did I mess up?

The fan wasn't spinning up front and my immediate thought was "did I just seize this mother f*cker?"

Went and got the 24MM long handle and turned the engine. Turned no problem. Phew.

Called the bro. He said it just sounded like the starter. I cranked a few more times and then the starter just spun like the bendix wasn't making contact with anything.

Pulled the starter back down.
Grabbed the jumper cables with the starter on the ground. Ground to body.
Hit the S terminal with the positive cable and the bendix shot up. Teeth look worn.
Jumped the S to hot with a screw driver, the motor spun, bendix shot up but sounded like crap. Ordered new starter, will probably rebuild this one.

Checked the flex plate....teeth completely missing from this spot in the plate. Ugh. New flex plate ordered from Summit. I guess a combination of running the starter on low batteries and not having the rear bracket holding it in place, and then me fixing those issue was too much for the old plate to handle.

Next move changing out the flex plate. Should be an interesting job, but I needed to check that parking pawl in the transmission anyways and give it a look over.

To be continued...

Edit 12/5/2021 : All of my video will be uploaded to this playlist: Squibbly's M1009 CUCV - YouTube


M1009.png
 
Last edited:

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
For the voltage meter, I found this $30.00 24V marine look alike on ebay.
I tested it and it works, but there is no light.

There is a spot in the plastic case on the back, that is printed but not open that looks like if I drilled it out the existing light bulb would fit into it, so I'll probably try that and update with results.

If not, I'll rip the guts out of this one, and put it into the old metal case (and switch the display plate out with the original), and re-crimp the glass clamp.

this is a Faria 2" Voltmeter (16-36V) Black Bezel w/Orange Pointer VP0142

1637162967328.pngSnap3.png
 
Last edited:

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,711
19,750
113
Location
Charlotte NC
This will be my journal on my M1009 resto if anyone is interested in my experience as a non-mechanic.

Having been inspired by my much older and uglier brother who is a member of this forum (heh heh), I went out and found a M1009 CUCV. My bother is a former Marine who worked in the Motor-T during desert storm, while I went off to the Air Force and worked on F-16s. I knew he knew a lot about these vehicles, currently owns two (M1008 and M1028). and has brought many vehicles back from the dead over the years. Since my brother and I are older now, live in different states and rarely have occasion to speak, it seemed like a good project. So I embarked on a journey to find a CUCV and located one on Facebook within minutes, and only about 40 minutes from my house.

When I went to view the vehicle from the PO, it was clear that he knew nothing about the vehicle.
A few giveaways.
He had no idea how many batteries were in it.
He told me it had AC, but it needed recharged.
He was using it to store his trash that clearly had not been picked up from his house in weeks.
The vehicle wouldn't start (slow crank from 12 year old batteries) so he got out and sprayed some starter fluid into the air box.

As I walked around the truck and analyzed the "visual" damage, there was very little rust. The passenger side rocker needs so work, there is a small rust hole in the cab roof the size of a nickel, and a dent in the door. The rear window wouldn't roll up and the crank was missing. The PO just yanked the window up with his hands to get it to go half way. All fixable items. Frame was solid.

Parking gear is non-existent, finding the other gears was a chore, the lack of transmission fluid potentially explaining some of it.

Once started and driving, it seemed solid enough and was switching gears. So engine turns, transmission kind of works.

As I looked over the truck again the truck stared back at me with a "help me...please..for the love of God.." look in it's headlights, so I had to liberate it. The PO had "lost" the title even though he had only had it a few months, so there was that issue to contend with. I found the previous owners registration, located her on facebook, and she graciously took a copy of a title transfer to get it notarized and sent it back to me, so situation handled.

Once I got it home and could do a semi-real inspection a few things I noted (along with face timing with bro).

Almost no oil.
Fuel pump was leaking like a sieve and hard fuel line from pump had a pin hole leak, which I found after my brother told me to change out the small rubber line going into the fuel pump on top of the intake manifold with some clear line to look for bubbles indicating a leak.
Front and back of oil pan leaking. (My guess was oil pan gasket in the front and rear main seal in the back)
Oil leaking out of torque converter inspection cover.
Voltage gauge doesn't work.
Shift indicator broken.
Turn signal lever not catching.
Rear windows only goes half way up because the regulator gears are stripped.
Manual glow-plug switch and no glow plug card.

...and of course noticing all of the cool items in the truck that you don't see on everyday vehicles (M16 rack, plates, blackouts).


So again I stood there looking at my hands that looked like I had dipped them into black paint, and came to the conclusion "My wife is gonna be pissed when she gets home and see this", and this put a smile on my face. In a surprise reversal she actually liked it and wanted me to fix it up, which is a first.

My very first purchase was Dickies blues, and boxes of Borax and Washing soda, because let's face it, the wife isn't going to be so kind if I F up her laundry.

Then some brand new 1000 CCA NAPA Commercial Batteries. The ones that were in the truck were 12 years old and had about 200 CCA left.

Off to harbor freight I went to get the torque wrenches I'd need for the first job (Rear main seal). That went relatively smooth, once you realize just how much force you can put on the transmission lines (as well as the angle to pull them from) to get them out of the way of the inspection cover. I noticed while I was taking down the inspection cover that there was a crack in it directly over the starter. Looking at the starter (and a quick check with the bro), and I realized the starter bracket had never been reattached and was shoved up above the starter a millimeter from the positive terminal (yikes), so that needed to come out and get done right.

Interestingly when I pulled the main bearing, I noticed a black, oily rope like item hanging out of where the rear main seal should be that had mostly disintegrated. My brother informed me of something called a "rope seal" although he had never seen one used in this application. They are usually installed on much older trucks.

I noticed that the flex plate teeth (the ones I could see) looked kind of worn, and I suspected that all the grinding from the PO's low batteries were the cause, but figured I'd be fine for now.

Once the rear main seal was done, new gasket put on, and everything bolted back up, I moved on to the fuel pump.

This was actually difficult for me, until I read CUCVRUS post located here with the advice from another forum member:
Mechanical fuel pump replacement | SteelSoldiers

You really do want to remove that Gen2, because the angles to get to the fuel pump bolts are horrible if you don't, not to mention you'll be able to throw some grease on the pivots for your generator to make it easier to tighten those belts.
I used a 1/4 ratchet, with a 1/4 swivel that I taped with electricians tape to firm it up, and a 7/16 socket.

Of course the push rod dropped down to the mounting plate so I had to pull that off because the push rod got wedged. Do the grease trick on the push rod and shove it back into its hole, then put on the new fuel pump (MAKE SURE YOU BUY THE CORRECT PUMP, THE ONE WITHOUT THE VISIBLE SPRING UNDER THE LEVER). Once I took the generator off it was much much easier to install than it was to take off.

On to the broken fuel line. Once I realized I would have to take the intake manifold off to replace that, I decided *for now* to just bend up a smaller hard line and use rubber for the rest so I could get the rubber line under the intake manifold and attached to the fuel filter (I still have the original square filter).

Time to crank it up. A 10 second push on the glow plug switch, and a turn of the key and the truck fired right up (which was suprising because I didn't even bleed the fuel line)...then died 10 seconds later.

I opened the air bleed line and cranked a few more time then suddenly a rough grinding noise...
Uh oh. What did I mess up?

The fan wasn't spinning up front and my immediate thought was "did I just seize this mother f*cker?"

Went and got the 24MM long handle and turned the engine. Turned no problem. Phew.

Called the bro. He said it just sounded like the starter. I cranked a few more times and then the starter just spun like the bendix wasn't making contact with anything.

Pulled the starter back down.
Grabbed the jumper cables with the starter on the ground. Ground to body.
Hit the S terminal with the positive cable and the bendix shot up. Teeth look worn.
Jumped the S to hot with a screw driver, the motor spun, bendix shot up but sounded like crap. Ordered new starter, will probably rebuild this one.

Checked the flex plate....teeth completely missing from this spot in the plate. Ugh. New flex plate ordered from Summit.

Next move changing out the flex plate. Should be an interesting job, but I needed to check that parking pawl in the transmission anyways and give it a look over.

To be continued...


View attachment 850965
.
Nice story about your first CUCV adventure! It sounds like you found a real gem of a truck too. Congratulations on your new toy.
 

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,115
1,712
113
Location
York Pa
This will be my journal on my M1009 resto if anyone is interested in my experience as a non-mechanic.

Having been inspired by my much older and uglier brother who is a member of this forum (heh heh), I went out and found a M1009 CUCV. My bother is a former Marine who worked in the Motor-T during desert storm, while I went off to the Air Force and worked on F-16s. I knew he knew a lot about these vehicles, currently owns two (M1008 and M1028 ). and has brought many vehicles back from the dead over the years. Since my brother and I are older now, live in different states and rarely have occasion to speak, it seemed like a good project. So I embarked on a journey to find a CUCV and located one on Facebook within minutes, and only about 40 minutes from my house.

When I went to view the vehicle from the PO, it was clear that he knew nothing about the vehicle.
A few giveaways.
He had no idea how many batteries were in it.
He told me it had AC, but it needed recharged.
He was using it to store his trash that clearly had not been picked up from his house in weeks.
The vehicle wouldn't start (slow crank from 12 year old batteries) so he got out and sprayed some starter fluid into the air box.

As I walked around the truck and analyzed the "visual" damage, there was very little rust. The passenger side rocker needs some work, there is a small rust hole in the cab roof the size of a nickel, and a dent in the door. The rear window wouldn't roll up and the crank was missing. The PO just yanked the window up with his hands to get it to go half way. All fixable items. Frame was solid.

Parking gear is non-existent, finding the other gears was a chore, the lack of transmission fluid potentially explaining some of it.

Once started and driving, it seemed solid enough and was switching gears. So engine turns, transmission kind of works.

As I looked over the truck again the truck stared back at me with a "help me...please..for the love of God.." look in it's headlights, so I had to liberate it. The PO had "lost" the title even though he had only had it a few months, so there was that issue to contend with. I found the previous owners registration, located her on facebook, and she graciously took a copy of a title transfer to get it notarized and sent it back to me, so situation handled.

Once I got it home and could do a semi-real inspection a few things I noted (along with face timing with bro).

Almost no oil.
Fuel pump was leaking like a sieve and hard fuel line from pump had a pin hole leak, which I found after my brother told me to change out the small rubber line going into the fuel pump on top of the intake manifold with some clear line to look for bubbles indicating a leak.
Front and back of oil pan leaking. (My guess was oil pan gasket in the front and rear main seal in the back)
Oil leaking out of torque converter inspection cover.
Voltage gauge doesn't work.
Shift indicator broken.
Turn signal lever not catching.
Rear windows only goes half way up because the regulator gears are stripped.
Manual glow-plug switch and no glow plug card.
Breather tube to the front axle (diff) snapped off.

...and of course noticing all of the cool items in the truck that you don't see on everyday vehicles (M16 rack, plates, blackouts).


So again I stood there looking at my hands that looked like I had dipped them into black paint, and came to the conclusion "My wife is gonna be pissed when she gets home and see this", and this put a smile on my face. In a surprise reversal she actually liked it and wanted me to fix it up, which is a first.

My very first purchase was Dickies blues, and boxes of Borax and Washing soda, because let's face it, the wife isn't going to be so kind if I F up her laundry.

Then some brand new 1000 CCA NAPA Commercial Batteries. The ones that were in the truck were 12 years old and had about 200 CCA left.

Off to harbor freight I went to get the torque wrenches I'd need for the first job (Rear main seal). That went relatively smooth, once you realize just how much force you can put on the transmission lines (as well as the angle to pull them from) to get them out of the way of the inspection cover. I noticed while I was taking down the inspection cover that there was a crack in it directly over the starter. Looking at the starter (and a quick check with the bro), and I realized the starter bracket had never been reattached and was shoved up above the starter a millimeter from the positive terminal (yikes), so that needed to come out and get done right.

Interestingly when I pulled the main bearing, I noticed a black, oily rope like item hanging out of where the rear main seal should be that had mostly disintegrated. My brother informed me of something called a "rope seal" although he had never seen one used in this application. They are usually installed on much older trucks.

I noticed that the flex plate teeth (the ones I could see) looked kind of worn, and I suspected that all the grinding from the PO's low batteries were the cause, but figured I'd be fine for now.

Once the rear main seal was done, new gasket put on, and everything bolted back up, I moved on to the fuel pump.

This was actually difficult for me, until I read CUCVRUS post located here with the advice from another forum member:
Mechanical fuel pump replacement | SteelSoldiers

You really do want to remove that Gen2, because the angles to get to the fuel pump bolts are horrible if you don't, not to mention you'll be able to throw some grease on the pivots for your generator to make it easier to tighten those belts.
I used a 1/4 ratchet, with a 1/4 swivel that I taped with electricians tape to firm it up, and a 7/16 socket.

Of course the push rod dropped down to the mounting plate so I had to pull that off because the push rod got wedged. Do the grease trick on the push rod and shove it back into its hole, then put on the new fuel pump (MAKE SURE YOU BUY THE CORRECT PUMP, THE ONE WITHOUT THE VISIBLE SPRING UNDER THE LEVER). Once I took the generator off it was much much easier to install than it was to take off.

On to the broken fuel line. Once I realized I would have to take the intake manifold off to replace that, I decided *for now* to just bend up a smaller hard line and use rubber for the rest so I could get the rubber line under the intake manifold and attached to the fuel filter (I still have the original square filter).

Time to crank it up. A 10 second push on the glow plug switch, and a turn of the key and the truck fired right up (which was suprising because I didn't even bleed the fuel line)...then died 10 seconds later.

I opened the air bleed line and cranked a few more time then suddenly a rough grinding noise...
Uh oh. What did I mess up?

The fan wasn't spinning up front and my immediate thought was "did I just seize this mother f*cker?"

Went and got the 24MM long handle and turned the engine. Turned no problem. Phew.

Called the bro. He said it just sounded like the starter. I cranked a few more times and then the starter just spun like the bendix wasn't making contact with anything.

Pulled the starter back down.
Grabbed the jumper cables with the starter on the ground. Ground to body.
Hit the S terminal with the positive cable and the bendix shot up. Teeth look worn.
Jumped the S to hot with a screw driver, the motor spun, bendix shot up but sounded like crap. Ordered new starter, will probably rebuild this one.

Checked the flex plate....teeth completely missing from this spot in the plate. Ugh. New flex plate ordered from Summit. I guess a combination of running the starter on low batteries and not having the rear bracket holding it in place, and then me fixing those issue was too much for the old plate to handle.

Next move changing out the flex plate. Should be an interesting job, but I needed to check that parking pawl in the transmission anyways and give it a look over.

To be continued...


View attachment 850965
That looks like a nice one! For a guy who doesn't claim to know how to fix cars you're doing great...one thing with the starter there should be a bracket bolted to the front of the starter to the engine to help brace it...there's 2 different ones depending on which starter you get...other thing with it not going in park check to see if the linkage needs adjusted before jumping into the parking pawl...It is simple to adjust to get the throw right...if the parking pawl is stripped it probably needs a rebuild because of the damage it would have done to the drum it hooks to...it is easier to check linkage with 2 people with one under and one shifting, not running of course...can see if there's play in the linkage.
 

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
That looks like a nice one! For a guy who doesn't claim to know how to fix cars you're doing great...one thing with the starter there should be a bracket bolted to the front of the starter to the engine to help brace it...there's 2 different ones depending on which starter you get...other thing with it not going in park check to see if the linkage needs adjusted before jumping into the parking pawl...It is simple to adjust to get the throw right...if the parking pawl is stripped it probably needs a rebuild because of the damage it would have done to the drum it hooks to...it is easier to check linkage with 2 people with one under and one shifting, not running of course...can see if there's play in the linkage.
Hey thanks for the info. For each job I need to do, I find the applicable step by step in the TMs provided by this site (-20 or -34) print them out and keep them on the ground next to me. Anything that doesn't make sense, my bro gets the call. Like Me: "Hey...it's a bitch to get to these wires off the starter like the manual says". Bro: "Why don't you drop the starter first". Me: "DOH!!"

I spend more time than I'd like to admit staring at things and playing the movie of me actually doing it in my head until it seems right.

I did go through the linkage and used my phone to video each piece as I shifted back and forth. Especially the connection to the transmission, where I know that bolt can come loose. When I talked to the person who ultimately sent me the title (not the person I got it from), she said it was like that when they sold it, and "the planetary gear is bad".
I don't know how someone would know that unless they took the tranny off, opened it, went through it and saw that, then put it all back together without fixing it ( who would do that? ). So I don't know if they are guessing, or if they really did take it apart and put it back together with the parking pawl bracket upside down. It's a mystery, but I've got to change what little bit of tranny oil is in there anyways, so I've got to drop the pan, and I think the parking pawl and bracket is exposed from that view, along with the spring or at least that is what some YouTube videos I watched on the TH400 led me to believe.

I'm learning a lot, and this forum is a great resource. I will check the linkage again. I know when people put lifts and bigger tires on, the linkage needs to be adjusted or the shifting is out of whack as well so I'll go through it again to be sure.
 

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,115
1,712
113
Location
York Pa
Well the new starter arrived.
This thing looks like a turd compared to the old one.

Definitely looking like a rebuild on the old one.

View attachment 851011View attachment 851012View attachment 851013View attachment 851014
The new one has the stud in it to use the front mount bracket brace...can't tell which one either is but if I remember right there's a 27 or 28 something part number related to them...one is a direct drive and one has some type of under gear drive I think...each one uses a different brace....as far as knowing a planetary went out that is what has the notches that the parking pawl grabs onto...I think it's the reverse gear one...been a while since I've rebuilt one though...I'd bet they pulled the pan and found chunks of it in there from it...it really takes a lot of pop it in park going 50mph to do that though! Nice thing the 400 is cheap and easy to rebuild with tons of basic mods to really toughen it up.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

M35fan

Well-known member
1,166
3,992
113
Location
Arab, Alabama
Welcome to the forum. And congrats on your truck. I know very little about CUCVS, but from what I've read they are great fun. I just might own one myself one day (my Deuce looks kinda lonely out there) so I look forward to learning from your experience. Glad you're here.
 

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
Welcome to the forum. And congrats on your truck. I know very little about CUCVS, but from what I've read they are great fun. I just might own one myself one day (my Deuce looks kinda lonely out there) so I look forward to learning from your experience. Glad you're here.
Thanks. Nice Deuce.
You must get a lot of questions at the gas pump, like "Hey, I like your truck, but could you get the tire off the top of my Prius?" 😃
 

M35fan

Well-known member
1,166
3,992
113
Location
Arab, Alabama
Thanks. Nice Deuce.
You must get a lot of questions at the gas pump, like "Hey, I like your truck, but could you get the tire off the top of my Prius?" 😃
The gas pump is a popular spot for sure. It's still fairly new to me so I don't mind the questions at all. I especially love when military veterans come up and share a story or two. As for the Priuses, I just pick them out of my treads when they build up 🤣
 

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
Yes that's it! Good you have it...that's the bent style...should be a 27 starter then...the 28 uses the straight style...you know which the new starter is?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Ouch. Yep I got the wrong one. Mine is a 28MT not a 27MT.
Back to Amazon it goes.

Good news though. A quick ebay check and I found a remand' old one, which will be at my house by Tuesday. 😃
DELCO 27MT 24 VOLT for 6.9L CHEVROLET STARTER 10497166 REMANUFACTURED | eBay

Thanks for the heads up. I did the same thing with the fuel pump (before I put it in), and brought it back to NAPA. Sometimes the cross referencing is wrong.
 

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,115
1,712
113
Location
York Pa
Ouch. Yep I got the wrong one. Mine is a 28MT not a 27MT.
Back to Amazon it goes.

Good news though. A quick ebay check and I found a remand' old one, which will be at my house by Tuesday.
DELCO 27MT 24 VOLT for 6.9L CHEVROLET STARTER 10497166 REMANUFACTURED | eBay

Thanks for the heads up. I did the same thing with the fuel pump I put in, and brought it back to NAPA. Sometimes the cross referencing is wrong.
You'd never know it until you tried to pop it in and that bracket didn't line up...either starter will work...you'd just have to change the bracket is all...I think the 28 is the better one though.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
You'd never know it until you tried to pop it in and that bracket didn't line up...either starter will work...you'd just have to change the bracket is all...I think the 28 is the better one though.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
You know that feeling you get when you sit down in a nice German car, and you close the door, and touch the wheel, and feel the heaviness of the suspension, and you can "feel" the quality, and then the feeling you get when you sit in a Kia and close the door?

That's the difference in feeling I got holding both of these starters.

Yeah, the old one may have been abused but who knows how long it was in there taking that beating, and didn't even have the bracket connected to it (per my initial post). I'm guessing a long time given how far into that flywheel it was able to chew.

This new one feels like a Kia.

I'm glad you talked me out of it. UPS return label already printed. Back to China it goes, and I'll have a spare for my friend M35fan when he gets his CUCV. 😁
 

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,115
1,712
113
Location
York Pa
You know that feeling you get when you sit down in a nice German car, and you close the door, and touch the wheel, and feel the heaviness of the suspension, and you can "feel" the quality, and then the feeling you get when you sit in a Kia and close the door?

That's the difference in feeling I got holding both of these starters.

Yeah, the old one may have been abused but who knows how long it was in there taking that beating, and didn't even have the bracket connected to it (per my initial post). I'm guessing a long time given how far into that flywheel it was able to chew.

This new one feels like a Kia.

I'm glad you talked me out of it. UPS return label already printed. Back to China it goes, and I'll have a spare for my friend M35fan when he gets his CUCV.
That makes sense...I am doing as much as I can avoiding the shipping containers of junk sitting in harbors out west...getting the one that is rebuilt looks like a old core redone...there's not much to replace in them on a direct drive...solenoid, brushes and a few bearings...maybe hunt down a local that can fix up the old one.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,431
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
You can use the OEM support bracket. Just rock it back and forth against the stud and drill a hole in the center of the mark. Cut the bottom off the bracket and it works good as new. But you can also buy one that was made for it. Either way in place and tight is all that matters. Good Luck with the project.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,711
19,750
113
Location
Charlotte NC
New Flex plate has arrived from Summit. I'm wondering if I need to hit this with some POR15 or something. Seems like it'll rust pretty quick.View attachment 851046
View attachment 851044View attachment 851045
.
Back in the day - they were just fine how it is. Now days, nobody knows what might happen to it as the raw metal it is now... If you decide to paint it, I would mask off the gear ring and the center where the flywheel is attached.

Seems like I remember POR15 Paint, so that is an idea too maybe?
 
Top