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Yep. I would have been banging my head against a wall trying to get to the bottom of that by myself.
Not a drop of oil anywhere, looks fantastic. You should be feeling mighty fine right now. Great feeling to complete your own work and know you did it right, good job Mister!! Me thinks your wife takes good care of you!!
Heh heh. Pork loin.
She's giving me the "You need some help with that?" look.
Here is the other view I had most of today.
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That is what I am curious about, all those secrets you forgot to mention, Well that's okay, no need to give your self up.Yep. I would have been banging my head against a wall trying to get to the bottom of that by myself.
Thanks for the good info. Next time though, could you watch the videos more closely so you can catch all the things I didn't bother mentioning?
This was definitely a painful lesson in "guessing it's OK".
Much more than I deserve.
I am pretty sure he has that on his list, but good call!
Already on order.
.Here is the rust areas I need to fix. It's pretty much passenger side and front of hood. I have a mig welder I’ve used a few times to do simple small things, but I have access to YouTube so it’ll be educational I’m sure.
Somehow I think this door dent is really going to suck.
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For anyone wondering about my earlier gut swap on the voltmeter, this hack works fine.OK. I opted for the 'Gut Swap' from the new $30.00 voltmeter to the old casing and plate.
It doesn't appear that the "wings" on the old meter made any difference in fitment.
Once I get the batteries reconnected I can make sure it reads right with the old plate. If not, I'll have to live with the new display plate, but I'm going to keep the rest of the old casing.
The new ones that cost 90 bucks gave me 'anal glaucoma' because I couldn't see my ass paying that amount.
View attachment 851137View attachment 851138
.For anyone wondering about my earlier gut swap on the voltmeter, this hack works fine.
I was able to pull the guts out of the new gauge, and it was a direct enough fit into the old case, and I got to keep the original face plate.
The needle is a different color. The plate is from the original, so besides the needle color, everything else is the same..
Nice! New Guts but it looks almost like the original.
As far as the hood goes:
I hear what your saying wanting to make a hands on project of your rig. I am sure you will enjoy the challenge and the learning opportunity. On the flip side, anyone just wanting to fix their issues and move on, Chevy aftermarket hoods and doors can be had at a bargain.As far as the hood goes:
View attachment 852550
Seriously though, why do you think I should trash it? Seems like a good project for learning some welding skills. Have you tried it before and they never come out right?
The door bottom is solid all the way:
View attachment 852551
and as far as the rocker...do you see me as some kind of caveman??
Why would I even consider gluing over rust?? Heresy!!
I'll be cutting that out and welding it.
I personally "prefer" my truck not be perfect. I want *other* people to worry about parking next to me, not the other way around.
A little patina and a dent here and there is a look I "personally" like.
Holes rusted through is a cancer and that needs to be fixed.
I'll probably straighten the door and panel as much as I can, and give it my best shot on the hood.
Some dingus at some point decided to pry it up.
For things like this, I like to ask myself "If I couldn't buy it, could I actually fix it". The challenge is the fun part.
Do you not weld on new metal with your body work?
If that's all the rust you have you're in good shape!! Looks like an inner rocker and outer,,,easy peasy...as far as the door goes both of mine have that too...dang guys back into stuff with it open...if you take the door off you can dolley hammer that out pretty easy...there's plenty of room on the inside to put a rounded dolley to make it right. The hood will be way more work since it's tough to get into that spot but I'm sure you can figure out something...I straightened out my bed with a big ratchet strap hooked to a tree so about anything can be done if you think about how to push or pull the metal. I did a bunch of pics on mine with the floor replacement the last few months...getting to it when we can...should be welding in the passenger side floor on Wednesday. I bought a basic 110 mig welder from harbor freight that welds this body stuff no problem...almost spent more on the bottle than the welder and cart...rockers are cheap and the inner is about as cheap so parts shouldn't be a problem to get...then you'll have a welder for that next project. I am not sure what a bodyshop would charge to do the rockers but you'll probably be at around 9 to 1k in everything doing it yourself, parts are around 50 $, with buying your own mig welding setup. Might be something to look into if you don't need a welder later on.Here is the rust areas I need to fix. It's pretty much passenger side and front of hood. I have a mig welder I’ve used a few times to do simple small things, but I have access to YouTube so it’ll be educational I’m sure.
Somehow I think this door dent is really going to suck.
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I have 4 of those tanks that I bought at local swap meets, there is a holder that bolts to the floor to hold it in place with a small strap going over top. I have seen a few online in some surplus stores online too. They can be very old though so if you want to put fuel in there they better be tight!! They make new ones too that are mostly china thin skin metal.
I’ve got a Hobart mig welder, and a stick welder. Had them for years, but used them for very small jobs, like extending the frame on a trailer. Never did body work. I have a body kit with hammers and dollys. Brand new. For the project I “always wanted to do but never got around to”. Now I have a project I can use all this stuff on.
