Stalled Deuce

[2deuce]

My Deuce is parked on the street in front of my house right now. Just got home and the fuel was very low. I killed the engine and it won't start. Added about 7 gallons and still won't start. Checked the pump on the tank and its not running and it doesn't seen to have any power to it. Is there a fuse for it? Will the IP need to be bled? Any help is appreciated. Greg

 

[mcinfantry]

there is a fuse in the cover on the top.
if you killed it, you will probably have to bleed it. i ran mine a few months w/o a in-tank pump

 

[wpzimmer]

Very likely that the fuel pump fuse is blown. It is under a little plastic cover on top of the pump on top of the fuel tank. Cover held in place by a couple of screws or a couple of nuts depending upon the pump. Don't recall the exact amperage of the fuse but is stamped on the end of the fuse. This is a commom problem when runniing out of fuel. Fuel serves as a coolant and lubricant for the pump and without fuel present the pump draws too much current and blows the fuse. Fuse will run you about two bits. Worth keeping a few spares in the glove box.

You will need to bleed the injector lines by loosening them one at a time at the injectors and cranking the engine until all the air is displaced and fuel comes out the fitting. Tighten each fitting when completed. The engine may start after bleeding three or four lines but will run rough untill all lines are bled. Sometimes it is also necessary to bleed the air out of the filter housing. There is a bleed fitting on top of the canister for this purpose. You ordinarially do this each time you change filters. This is accomplished simply by running the in tank pump.

 

[2deuce]

I saw that cover but there seems to be no power in the plug that goes to it. I put a tester on it and couldn't get a light with the accessory switch on. If I fill the tank back up do you think the IP will be able to pull fuel to itself cause if the wiring to the fuel pump is bad I'm in trouble. Thanks

 

[2deuce]

Checked the fuse and its good. My tester I think is bad, bulb may be burnt. Would you be able to feel or hear the pump run if it is working? This is bad luck, drove all day pulling a trailer with about 7 tons of machinery on it and quits 8 feet from home. Make that 10' cause I'm blocking over half the road. Maybe I should consider myself lucky I'm not out on the interstate somewhere.

 

[jwaller]

you will be able to both hear and feel the pump running and you should be able to open the drain on the primary filter and it will pour out diesel.

 

[clinto]

For what it's worth, I can hear my pump when I arm the electrical system from inside the cab.

 

[devilman96]

Yep, dead pump... 2 options... You can ether hunt down a stock pump or install a 24V remote mount jobber. Saturn sells them as does Napa and other parts stores. Napa has two available that I am aware of and you will need the higher volume pump as a low volume is insufficient.

As for bleeding... NO!!!! ... A LD's fuel system is designed to bleed its self off and has an incrediblely high recycling rate... Install the pump, let it run for a few minutes and crank it up. It will sputter for a few seconds but will even right out once the air clears the high side of the IP. Cracking your FI lines and all of that jazz is just asking for line problems such as leaking and cracking.

 

[cranetruck]

I agree with Dman on the bleeding issues.
Note that the fuel tank is grounded via one single wire, #79, which connects to the fuel pump and everything else on the tank, through the 3 prong plug.
To measure the supply voltage, make sure the meter probe is grounded correctly (not to the tank with the plug disconnected).

FWIW, when my engine stalled, it happened after a long run and I let up on the accelerator. My problem was the shut-off mechanism. See separate post w/images, "Hard to start".
http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=7967

 

[mcinfantry]

i have had luck w/o bleeding. but i have had to bleed it when the in tank pump didnt work (at all)

 

[2deuce]

Devilman, that is good news, thanks. I'm going to check out Napa as soon as they open. I don't believe the pump ever was running as long as I've had this truck. I've put about 4-5K on it. I've never heard or felt anything from that pump. I'm wondering if I fill the fuel tank to the max if the IP would be able to pull fuel. I have another Deuce that I don't drive that starts after 6 months with just a bump of the starter button, warm or cold weather. I never noticed that pump running either so last night I pulled it off but its dead also. The wires are all corroded off basically rusted away. The driver Deuce thats still blocking the road always takes alot of cranking to start. Thanks again, Greg

 

[2deuce]

Thanks Guys for all the advice. The second pump that had the wires corroded off did have continuity so I exchanged it with the original bad one and the truck srarted up with just 10 seconds of rough idling. Moved it off the road, what a relief! With the added pressure I now have a leak. Its a steady stream from the filter under the alternator. I've got to remove it and I hope the alternator does not have to come off but it looks like it does. Thanks again, Greg

 

[cranetruck]

Normally, you don't have to take the alternator off, just loosen the bolt on top and spin the filter off.

 

[devilman96]

That leak was proably your hard start issue allowing air into the system and fuel to drain back to the tank.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Re the alternator. If you feel froggy while you're in there, remove the bracket that holds that filter assy to the frame and reinstall in on the bottom of the frame. It will buy you quite a bit of room for future alt belt adjustments.

 

[2deuce]

About the leak, that would make it hard to start. There always was a drip of fuel hanging from the filter. But since the tank pump wasn't working (unknown to me)it only leaked when I stopped the engine. Now it leaks a steady stream. I first thought it was the petcock, but I put a new one in without improvement. Its a pinhole up on the side on the canister, and I can hear it sucking air when the engine is shutdown. I wonder if I'll have alittle more power once I get the leak stopped cause the IP won't be pulling air.
I took the filter and bracket off. That was alot of work for one filter. I think I will do the spin on recommended in the tech articles. After reading that would it be better and give more clearence to the alternator if the bracket is turned dowm instead of up? If the lines are long enough it seems like that would be better. Am I missing anything? Thanks, Greg

 

[cranetruck]

Greg, do what Kenny suggested, mount the bracket below the flange for more clearance between the alternator and it.
I shortened the drive belts a little and have enough clearance to loosen the bolt. Once the bolt is loose, the canister spins right off from below as you pull on it to keep the bolt from spinning.
Installing a commercial "spin-on" seems like a lot of unneccessary work.
I got a new primary filter element from Memphis and it's the cleanable/reusable kind so I should be set for a long time.

If for some reason you rather have a commercial spin-on, make sure it is a water separater filter w/drain.
My two cents...

 

[ken]

Starting it will go much faster if you open the air bleeder at the top of the housing for the second and third fuel filters. Once you get a lift pump running open the valve untill raw fuel comes out. With no bubbles. Then close the valve and start cranking.

 

[2deuce]

I made the mistake of thinking I could find the pinhole in the canister but I can't. I should have marked it before I took it off but I could only see about where it was leaking not exactly where. Thats why I thought I'd go with the setup from Napa. Cut the bracket, and mount it down like Kenny sugested seems like a good idea but I'm alittle unsure cause it isn't exactly like the tech article recommends and Kenny's recommendation was for the original canister. Thanks, Greg

 

[ken]

You don't have to cut the bracket. Just unbolt it and move the bracket under the frames top rail. Then rebolt it using the same bolt holes. Instead of the bracket resting on top of the frame the bolts will hold it under the lip of the top rail. That way you will have a little more clearence between the bolt for the filter and the bottom of the alternator.