Starter Brackets, Bolts and other starter info

[top_prop]

According to the tech manual, the bracket to block bolt is a M8x1.25x20

A 1.5 is too big unless the block has been modified. Another poster even listed it as a 1/4-20 which is also wrong.

I can't speak for any other truck... or 'right or wrong' but I pulled the very slightly damaged bolt when i pulled the old 27MT bracket... I got my metric tap/die set out and it didn't match... whipped out the SAE and 5/16x18 was perfect... hit it with just a bit of oil and the die spun right down it until it hit the mashed thread. recut that and it went in the hole...

Hope it helps

 

[epartsman]

DB Electrical in Tennessee has Starters and Alternators for everything. They are cheap (paid $108.75 for my 24V gear reduction Starter with free shipping) give a 1yr no hassle return and warranty, they have been in business 30 yrs, and the quality is good. I have purchased a 3.0 mercruiser starter from them as well. The Starter is imported but brand new and works well for the price.

Starters, Alternators and more for Cars, Trucks, Tractors and ATVs

They are also on eBay and take PayPal if needed.

The original style bracket is discontinued from GM but the gear reduction bracket GM # 23502557 is still available.

 

[Reverend Evil]

According to the tech manual, the bracket to block bolt is a M8x1.25x20

A 1.5 is too big unless the block has been modified. Another poster even listed it as a 1/4-20 which is also wrong.

Warthog is right i miss read my notes. the bolt i quoted is the one for the starter to the block. I gotta learn to write better. I cant even read my own notes cause I just did all this . although nobody has listed the size of the nut on the starter end of the bracket. anybody know that one?

 

[epartsman]

That depends on the Starter. Is it OEM or Aftermarket , 12 or 24V, gear reduction or straight drive? Mine is an aftermarket 24V gear reduction from DB Electrical. Im a firm believer in keepin her 24V.

 

[Reverend Evil]

OEM rebuilt factory starter and my spare is the same. Guess i could take 1 of the nuts off the one on the truck and see it is just very wet and still raining here.

 

[top_prop]

Ok... we got a great thread on starters and bolts here... but what about shim's? I'm pretty sure that I read the 28MT starter didn't require shimming. But now my new 12v 28MT starter solenoid clicks and won't start and I'm wondering if it needed shimming... any thoughts?

in the delco instructions here: http://www.delcoremy.com/documents/...-28mt-installation-instructions_10511648.aspx it says to reinstall the existing shims... hmmm

 

[Reverend Evil]

If it required shims you would hear a god awfull sound not just a click click more like a squeal and clank/ metal screaming sound or it would bind up when engaged . Do you hear the starter spin when it clicks, if not you have a voltage or solenoid type of problem.

 

[wired1000]

From TM -20, Chapter 4 Section 5:

"Remove 6 bolts (25) and access
cover (27) from transmission housing
(26) . Measure clearance between
starter pinion (24) tooth and flywheel
(23). Clearance should be 0.02 in. to
0.06 in. (0.50 mm to 1.50 mm). Add
shims (10) as required. Install access
cover (27) with 6 bolts."

So... sometimes you need shims, apparently. The important thing is the correct clearance with the flywheel gear teeth

 

[top_prop]

From TM -20, Chapter 4 Section 5:

"Remove 6 bolts (25) and access
cover (27) from transmission housing
(26) . Measure clearance between
starter pinion (24) tooth and flywheel
(23). Clearance should be 0.02 in. to
0.06 in. (0.50 mm to 1.50 mm). Add
shims (10) as required. Install access
cover (27) with 6 bolts."

So... sometimes you need shims, apparently. The important thing is the correct clearance with the flywheel gear teeth

i guess I was misinformed or miss-remembered... I understood shims weren't required with the 28MT & the TM is written for the 27mt. That said, I just put the shims that were on the old 24v 27MT back in between the starter and the block (didn't tear anything apart to measure), just like the delco instructions said and it fired right up....

 

[top_prop]

If it required shims you would hear a god awfull sound not just a click click more like a squeal and clank/ metal screaming sound or it would bind up when engaged . Do you hear the starter spin when it clicks, if not you have a voltage or solenoid type of problem.

It fired and ran good for almost a month!... Then it would go 'pop' but it didn't sound like a full on, 'Im a weak solenoid... or you got weak batteries' pop... I surmised the gears weren't meshing by the sound... but the bendex wasn't protruding enough to start the starter spinning... it seems the shims have fixed it....

uh ETA.... it just went out again after the third start after putting the original shims in (which were ~.10" ! ... I guess I'll take stuff apart and measure now.... never can outsmart that TM!

ETA Days later....

found this thread usefull:http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/49893-dumb-newbie-starter-question.html it discusses which starters need shims and which don't. I bought a new 28MT starter, but I can' find "no shim" written on it anywhere...

Here are some directions on how to shim found in another starter thread here: http://macc.chevelles.net/starter.htm

Also to get my bell housing off I had to undo both the trans cooler hard lines... anyways The details that seem to be omitted are exactly how to measure the clearance between the ring gear and the pinion... what I ended up doing:

Found a small piece of wire, bent it into a 90 deg 1.5" 'L' shape, and put my dial caliper on it... it's diameter was .057"... good spec is .02 to .06 so I'm figured I was probably just a bit bigger than that if it slid in between... shimmed until it fit in between ring gear and protruded to the starter's splines without bending or forcing... (need .02 +.04 shim for total of .06")... so took out .04" shim... so I should have just a bit over .02" clearance by just using the .02" shim... which would indicate that I had just over 0 clearance without a shim... I said a prayer and put it all back together. So far one good start.

I understand some shim kits come with a tool like the one I made, but mine didn't have it.

Hope it helps. I'll post here if I have more trouble with this starter.

Tom

 

[top_prop]

had 4 good starts then big fail... was in a parking lot.... luckily I had wrenches with me so I loosed the bolts and tightened them back down. Fired up. Drove home and swapped in the .040 shim... have had the stomache flu (yes over thanksgiving) and haven't been anywhere but the bed, hospital, or toilet the last couple days... Thank god I got a good wife who kept the rugrats somewhat quiet and let me sleep it off....


I'll post here if the .040 doesn't get it done

 

[4x4 Forever]

That smiley is almost like my daughters 'yes' and 'no'...I can't tell which is which. Hope all is alright!

 

[top_prop]

.040 not getting it done. i guess its a bad starter... sometimes click... no start... other times it cranks... I contacted RareElectric (the seller on EBAY) over 5 days ago, but haven't heard back...


EDIT TO ADD... they respond better to phone calls... I have to pay shipping back to get my money refunded... should have just bought the lifetime warrenty item from my local parts store!

EDIT to Add: Got a rebuilt unit with a life time warrenty from O'riely's for $152 + core... they listed it as a gear reduction unit, but it was a direct drive 'no shim' unit. Its working fine so far. Apparently they reserve the right to swap in a Direct Drive or Gear Reduction for the starter at their desire. It came with paperwork explaining they all work the same (open houseing... or close ie 2x4 vs 4x4 or DD vs GR... )

 

[80sturgisrider]

DD Starter Bracket

The support bracket is a dealer only item. You might find one at a junk yard. Sorry.

I have a few at the house. I could send you one out but it would take a couple of days also.

Are you getting the old style direct drive or new style gear reduction starter? The support brackets are different. I have both.

Do you have anymore of the DD starter brackets? If so, how much for 2 of them shipped to 47374?

 

[Warthog]

Do you have anymore of the DD starter brackets? If so, how much for 2 of them shipped to 47374?

Sorry none at this time. Contact Hawkman. He usually has some parts CUCVs.

 

[tommyd]

Bolt size Support brkt to starter

Seeking knowledge. What size is the bolt that attaches the bracket to the front of a gear reduction starter? Heard some rattling and lost the bolt. Bracket is still on, but need the bolt now.

 

[Warthog]

each starter is different. To many manufactures to tell for sure.

You will have to use trial and error. Should be metric.

 

[tommyd]

Starter to support bracket bolt

I have a new DB electric gear reduction starter and the bolt was 1/4-20. PITA to get in but done. Put some loc-tire on her this time.

 

[cscmc1]

Hey gents -- this thread prompted me to check my starter bolts, and I discovered that the nut that secures the rear bracket to the starter itself is missing. Glad I saw this and checked the hardware!

Anyway, anyone have any idea what size the stud on the starter is? I don't really want to run in and out of the hardware store, crawling under the truck after each time, checking to see what nut fits. I was hoping someone could tell me and save me a lot of work. (Yes, I know that's lazy!)

Thanks in advance!

 

[cpf240]

Anyway, anyone have any idea what size the stud on the starter is? I don't really want to run in and out of the hardware store, crawling under the truck after each time, checking to see what nut fits. I was hoping someone could tell me and save me a lot of work. (Yes, I know that's lazy!)

Thanks in advance!

Just remove the starter when you get to the hardware store and take it with you to measure the threads for the nut. Then you'll only have to go under the truck twice!

Oh, don't forget to disconnect the batteries first!