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Starter Problems M1009

wired1000

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Here's the situation:

Drove a few miles to drop some things off at Salvation Army (moving next Saturday), and when I hopped back in, turned on the ignition, waited for the glow plugs, and CLICK (just one). Tried a few times: When I turn the key to "start", I get a single CLICK, fairly loud.

Tried hitting the starter motor with a screwdriver handle... About to go try to jump the relay. I have not load-tested the batteries, but tried jump-starting the car with two "jump boxes", one hooked up in parallel to each battery. Same result, just a single "CLICK".

I know from my old MG that sometimes the solenoid needs a good whack... but I can't seem to locate it on the M1009. Can someone describe where it is and where it's located? Picture maybe? I'm about to go out there with a multimeter and the wiring diagram to trace the system. Also going to try jumping the relay.

Any advice? Thanks in advance.
 

wired1000

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PS: Anyone know of a mechanic in Chicago who is familiar with the M1009? Due to the impending move and other obligations, I may not have time to tackle this on my own (assuming the relay is not the problem)...
 

wired1000

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OK. Tried jumping the red to the purple across the relay and almost succeeded in welding my two screwdrivers together, but no response from the starter. Getting 24V at the red wire there. Cleaned the negative battery ground to the frame as well as the battery leads, but I don't think that's the problem. Looked at the red wire that goes from the 24V bus down to the starter, but didn't get under the truck to check at the starter side due to rainy conditions and the car being parked in a giant puddle. I'm thinking maybe I just need to replace the starter (probably do the relay too, just to know there's a new one in there). Would still appreciate any comments or other things I can check or try, especially the solenoid since I don't know where it is or how to test that.

Thanks much!
 

wired1000

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Ooh, last thing, if the starter is the problem, does anyone know a part # for it? I've read a lot of similar posts involving parts shops / mechanics putting a 12V starter in, and I'd love to avoid that...
 

wired1000

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Thanks all. @Doghead, it sounds like I need to load test a lot of cables then? And the batteries...

I am kind of suspect of the front battery, as it was installed by the military an uknown amount of years ago. The rear battery was installed by the previous owner about a year ago. I did try disconnecting the front battery and jumping the truck from a passerby's Ford Explorer (had a decent battery in it) by hooking cables to replace the disconnected front battery. This did not work... but the guy in the Explorer said that he could feel the voltage drop in his vehicle when I engaged the starter circuit.

On my multimeter, the front battery shows 12.3V and the rear 12.5V.

Another question: If I'm engaging a failed starter, is this producing a huge load on the system and maybe destroying other components?

Yet another: Where is the fusible link for the starter circuit?
 

wired1000

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Don't think I mentioned that I am not experiencing any other issues with the truck or electrical system. When I turn the ignition on, all behaves normally. I suppose it's possible that with the increased load of the starter circuit (whatever is going on with it), it is overloading the system.
 

doghead

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Bad starters have ruined cables in other members vehicles.

Do your cables get warm or hot, after trying to crank it over?

There is no fusible link in the starter system.

If you pull turn your headlights on, do they come on and look normal?

So far, I'm thinking you either have a bad cable between the batteries or a bad starter.

You can use a jumper cable as the person in the thread I linked did, at see if that solves the issue. If it does not, I'd say pull the starter and have it tested/rebuilt.
 

wired1000

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Forgot to answer your other question.... yes, the headlights come on and look normal. I have not yet acquired a second person to check what they look like when I turn the key to "start", but judging by the drop on the voltmeter, I'm guessing they dim significantly.
 

frank1669

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Under the dash to the passenger side of steering column moundet about 1" over frome the steering coloumn bottom cover,is a relay it will have 4 wires going to it red, black, purple and purple with white stripe. That most likley is your problem ,

go here JATONKA's CUCV TM download page

Down load TM 9-2320-289-20 Page 4-11 (chapter 4 page 11) Number 21 on the illistration.

sorry II don't have a napa parts number.
 

doghead

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Under the dash to the passenger side of steering column moundet about 1" over frome the steering coloumn bottom cover,is a relay it will have 4 wires going to it red, black, purple and purple with white stripe. That most likley is your problem ,

go here JATONKA's CUCV TM download page

Down load TM 9-2320-289-20 Page 4-11 (chapter 4 page 11) Number 21 on the illistration.

sorry II don't have a napa parts number.


Did you read post#3?
 

frank1669

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Yes I did. The problem came from miss reading # 13 I some how came away with it not having a voltage drop when he stated a significant voltage drop. (sorry)
 

custm86

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I'm having the exact same issue right now. My cables started melting the coating. I'm gonna replace the cables first and diagnose. I'll keep you updated as to what it ends up being.
 

wired1000

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Somebody outbid me on an ebay auction for a used OEM starter. Gonna try the guy Ranchhopper suggested next. Also, I saw some kind of military bulletin when I was google searching the Delco part # saying that Ohio Generator makes a good replacement starter. Anybody used one of these?
 

imbobbbb

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My m1009 had the same symptoms.For some reason the solenoid shorted and melted the cable end mostly off.I put a new solenoid on and a new cable end and its been fine ever since.
 
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