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Starter problems or more than that?

zeisshensoldt

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Depending on how long he ran it a gallon low on oil and what caused it to be a gallon low on oil, may have something to do with why it doesn't want to turn over.
I'm thinking about running a compression test on all 8 cylinders to determine if any internal engine damage was caused. Do you presume this is a decent idea?
 

eme411

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get the truck in a warm building , change the oil and see what you see (Rotella winter grade oil), charge the batteries, check the pre-glow system, change to a normal block heater, and get a plug in timer so you don't need to have it plugged in all night , do these first before you go further , I did not like the sound of a gallon of oil,
 

CUCVLOVER

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I would change the oil, and filter. Then if you see anything I mean anything even the smallest speck the oil pan comes off then go from there.

If it was me I would use the stick on pan heater. If will heat the oil, and the heat will rise up in the block. That's my 1/50th (2 cent) worth of a dollar.
 

porkysplace

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Is the pump style block heater frowned upon?



Right, so what will besides tearing apart the block?
1. How long did you run it on low oil ?
2. Have you dropped the starter and tested it ?
3. Have you traced the wires to the push button start system ?
4. Have you load tested the batteries ?
5. What caused the oil to be a gallon low leaks , bad rings , never checked ?
6. Does the motor turn over with a bar ?

Until you do some tests on the truck since none of us are there it is a guessing game . You need to provide detailed information to get any help other than a guess .

edit: 1. meant to ask how long it was run low on oil .
 
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zeisshensoldt

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1. How long did you run it on oil ?
2. Have you dropped the starter and tested it ?
3. Have you traced the wires to the push button start system ?
4. Have you load tested the batteries ?
5. What caused the oil to be a gallon low leaks , bad rings , never checked ?
6. Does the motor turn over with a bar ?

Until you do some tests on the truck since none of us are there it is a guessing game . You need to provide detailed information to get any help other than a guess .
1. How long did you run it low on oil ?---no idea. I change it every 3k miles and have never had this issue until checking it the other day.
2. Have you dropped the starter and tested it ?---wil be doing that on tuesday
3. Have you traced the wires to the push button start system ?---yes, i installed it.
4. Have you load tested the batteries ?---tuesday
5. What caused the oil to be a gallon low leaks , bad rings , never checked ?---no leaks, but this is why i wanted to get a compression test done
6. Does the motor turn over with a bar ?---yes
 
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eme411

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you need to do some detective work and figure out where the oil went , check your cooler lines, and take a look in the rad and see if your cooler blew,
 

dependable

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If you can get it running, a manual oil pressure gauge should give you some idea of bearing condition.

You could have a sample of the oil analyzed to see if it has bearing metal in it.
 

rsh4364

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Is the pump style block heater frowned upon?



Right, so what will besides tearing apart the block?
I prefer the tank style block heater,easier and cleaner to install and if installed correctly more efficient.Do an oil psi gauge and let it heat up,if it still carries 10-20 psi at idle your bearings probably still good.
 

zeisshensoldt

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Updating this thread. Got around to working on the truck, replaced the fuel filter, installed a brand new ac delco CDR valve (maybe thats why its eating oil). As far as the no start issues, i had to replace the entire starter wiring harness and push button switch due to severe electrical melting. truck starts/drives like a top now. next i need to put in an oil pressure gauge and do a compression test. thanks for all the help.
 

cucvrus

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Just a question. If it runs good and everything sounds like it does. Why go and look for problems. What will a compression check tell you if it runs good? I may live in a cave. But I never go looking for issues if something is working and running good. If its not broke don't fix it. I would keep up on the preventive maintenance and fix problems as they arrive. Drive the vehicle for whats its worth. But to do a compression check on a good running motor will just open up more issues if the results are not what you are expecting. That is of course you find something during the compression test that is not to your liking. Then you can dive in and go replacing and rebuilding everything. Is the truck worth that? And as far as the oil pressure gauge. If the oil/idiot light works live with it. It will do the job. I try to keep modifications at a minimum it keeps the vehicle simple to it intended design. Do as you may. I am trying to give you some sound advise and cut out some of the extra work in this winter weather. But if you must do it go at it and have a blast. Good Luck and have a great day.
 

dependable

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In general, I agree with the 'if it is not broke don't fix it' approach. But since the OP had the low oil issue, I would still recommend checking things out, especially the oil pressure.

It is not too expensive a job to put in a new 'crank kit' (reground crank with matching bearings) (always replace oil pump while you are in there). Once a rod lets go do to trashed bearings, the motor is toast and your stuck on the side of the road. Due to the clattery nature of the 6.2, it is sometimes hard to here a rod knock developing, especially when it comes on gradually.
 

cucvrus

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I was taking all this into consideration when i made my reply. But if it is an oil consumption issue it will be far more then just a few parts. And oil is inexpensive in comparison to an overhaul. You have a great remedy for the bottom end issue. But if he continues to run it and keeps the oil full it will last a long time. i believe if you keep coolant/oil/fuel in a CUCV and it runs good you are well off leaving it alone. Unless you have expendable cash to spend on the truck and want to go all the way and the rest of the vehicle is worth the effort. My experience with some CUCV's has been to go all the way and overhaul everything once you start and do it right the first time. Other CUCV's I just do the needed repairs keep the fluids full and end up with the same results. A running functional CUCV that serves the intended purpose I have for it. I strongly agree that you can sink to much money in one of these and you would be better off spending it on a newer more trustworthy , comfortable vehicle with more better features. That is my opinion. Any vehicle can turn into a money pit. It is the guy that controls the spending and keeps the vehicle functional while doing this control that is better off. You can spend a million dollars maintaining a sows ear and never make a silk purse out of it. Do as you wish. Pease man have a great day. I always do a full vehicle cost assessment and write and estimate the costs of my expected overall end result. Many times it exceeds the value 2 fold and I find one that needs less work for 1/4 the money. Include everything tires , exhaust, body work, cooling system, electrical etc etc etc. They are good work trucks. Quite a few I have seen you can work on everyday. Not in my camp. Parts are easier to come by when I find these type of work trucks. :)
 

dependable

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I was taking all this into consideration when i made my reply...//... I strongly agree that you can sink to much money in one of these and you would be better off spending it on a newer more trustworthy , comfortable vehicle with more better features. That is my opinion. Any vehicle can turn into a money pit. It is the guy that controls the spending and keeps the vehicle functional while doing this control that is better off. You can spend a million dollars maintaining a sows ear and never make a silk purse out of it. Do as you wish. Pease man have a great day. I always do a full vehicle cost assessment and write and estimate the costs of....//....... :)
My CUCVs are comfortable and trustworthy, and they don't have puddles of fluids under them either. Some folks might want to keep their trucks up better. You have a new modern truck with the nice cupholders, have seen it in a previous post.

You know a lot about CUCVs, answer a lot of the repetitive questions new CUCV owners ask on the forum, and your advice is usually pretty good. Thanks for that.

Anyone can run an old truck into the ground and save money by buying another one, until they all are converted to rock crawlers or rusted away.

There is not one correct approach, but I like to encourage people to bring their trucks up, especially if they only have one and want to learn.

Have a good evening and another beer.
:beer:
 

zeisshensoldt

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both of you have good sound approaches to this. At this point i think i'll just add an oil pressure gauge, keep an eye on the oil level and leave it at that. Furthermore, I simply love to take care of my rigs as if they're my kids, it crushes me to see them down and out of the ball game. Thanks again.
 

tim292stro

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On that line of thought, I also don't have a yard or shop, my truck is parked on the street in a fairly nice-ish neighborhood that has businesses which bank on appearance. For less than 1/4 the cost of a "rolling luxury couch" I can buy and restore a CUCV. For the more expensive "super dependable does everything I demand of it" truck, I'm building one from "scratch" for the cost of a rolling luxury couch... :mrgreen:
 

zeisshensoldt

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Another issue has arisen and it has me pulling my hair out. Today i took the truck for a 100+ mile trip and at some points during the trip the truck would completely fall on its face with no power. even at full throttle it would sound bogged (the sound of low rpms) and struggle to get over 53mph, then at other points it would have great throttle response, the engine would sound normal and run 65+ no problem. what could be going on here?
 

tim292stro

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Have you ever drained and cleaned your fuel tank?

It kind of sounds like you have crap in your fuel tank that is getting pulled into the pickup filter sock, and then gets sloshed around.
 
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