When I start my deuce in the morning, I have to crank it for several seconds before it starts. When it does fire off, it will just run at a low idle for about half a minute. Pressing the medal just makes it die. after that , it picks up and runs fine and starts fine.Any Ideas? Is this normal? The fuel pump seems to work good.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
starting question
- Thread starter exoilfld
- Start date
sandcobra164
Well-known member
- 2,999
- 295
- 83
- Location
- Leesburg, GA
It sounds to me like your truck is slightly loosing prime. I would check the in tank fuel pump by loosening the bleed screw on top of the secondary fuel filters and having an assistant switch the truck on. I would also check the connections from the fuel tank all the way to the injection pump to see if you have any potential leaks. Once it's running for the 30 seconds or so, the truck has had a chance to pull a full load of fuel into the injection pump which is why it can then rev up when you apply throttle.
Scrounger
Active member
- 496
- 66
- 28
- Location
- Southern, Maryland
That sounds like a priming issue. However, the deuce is not prone to that problem because of the in-tank fuel pump. The trucks will run without the pump working.
I would turn on the master switch and listen at the tank to see if the pump is working. If it isn’t, check the fuse under the cover on the tank. Then check the voltage going to the pump with a multi meter.
If that all checks out this would have to be done after the truck has sat overnight. I would disconnect the fuel line that goes into the injection pump. Place the disconnected fuel line over a container. Have soldier B turn on the master switch and look for air bubbles in the fuel. If there is low or no flow check the pump then work forward.
I would turn on the master switch and listen at the tank to see if the pump is working. If it isn’t, check the fuse under the cover on the tank. Then check the voltage going to the pump with a multi meter.
If that all checks out this would have to be done after the truck has sat overnight. I would disconnect the fuel line that goes into the injection pump. Place the disconnected fuel line over a container. Have soldier B turn on the master switch and look for air bubbles in the fuel. If there is low or no flow check the pump then work forward.
- 7,409
- 2,503
- 113
- Location
- Interlachen Fl.
Remember just because the in tank sounds like it is working does not mean it is pumping fuel. Happens when the bottom plates fall out sounds good but no cigar. You could just try and leave the master on longer or in tank run longer before you hit the starter. You can also check for air at the bleed screw / check for some pressure between the secondary and final filter. Try and let the in tank run for a minute next time. If that does not seem to help there are other things that can be checked with out to much trouble. The Deuce fuel system is self clearing of all air in the lines and injectors.
Last edited:
Jakob
Member
- 722
- 5
- 18
- Location
- Louisville, KY
Reviving this old thread because I'm having a similar issue.
I can leave the power on for 15 minutes and the truck will still have to be turned over 3 good times (for about 10s each) before it will catch. Once it starts, it runs just fine. I swapped in a different, albeit used, fuel pump assembly... same thing. After the truck is running and I shut it down, in about an hour, it will be a bear to start again. I had the same problem before and after replacing all 3 fuel filters. The FDC is bypassed also, it started dumping into the oil.
Can someone give me a checklist of stuff to go through?
I can leave the power on for 15 minutes and the truck will still have to be turned over 3 good times (for about 10s each) before it will catch. Once it starts, it runs just fine. I swapped in a different, albeit used, fuel pump assembly... same thing. After the truck is running and I shut it down, in about an hour, it will be a bear to start again. I had the same problem before and after replacing all 3 fuel filters. The FDC is bypassed also, it started dumping into the oil.
Can someone give me a checklist of stuff to go through?
- 7,716
- 19,765
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
Silly question... Is it "cold related"? Does it start easily in warmer weather?
If so, the $20 fix might be a hair blower (dryer) laying in the intake for a maybe 5 or 10 minutes. Creates a way to preheat the intake air... If the truck doesn't start easily on warm day - then this is all for nothing.
Another Idea:
Do you have a "Soldier B" that can help? Do you have even a small air compressor? If so, a second person would start the truck over to crank it. Before that, First person (you, the guy that owns the truck) would use a blow nozzle attached to an air hose. Use half a dozen shop towels (or an old T-shirt) wadded up at the filler nozzle on your fuel tank. Insert the blow nozzle in the tank and under the rags. Hit the air button to LIGHTLY pressurize the fuel tank - again with the mostly blocked filler nozzle on the tank - and see if it starts more easily.
Don't go bonkers! All you want is a few pounds of air. Not enough to blow off a hose or split the tank or shove fuel back out you... Just a little push to get the fuel pushed into the lines if your fuel pump is weak. Or if a fuel like is leaking... The rags covering the fuel fill nozzle on the tank should protect you, but be careful with pressure on a non-pressurized fuel tank.
.
Jakob
Member
- 722
- 5
- 18
- Location
- Louisville, KY
First off, it doesn't matter what the weather is... hot, cold.
I have an air compressor and a "soldier B". So, if the pressurized tank trick works... what does that mean? I won't be able to do it until the earliest of tomorrow.
- 7,716
- 19,765
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
.
My interpretation is that the fuel pump could be weak or is losing its prime. It could also be a fuel line that has started to or has partially collapsed. Both good places to start looking at fuel issues.
.
- 7,409
- 2,503
- 113
- Location
- Interlachen Fl.
- 3,256
- 3,349
- 113
- Location
- NORTH (Canada)
I would add: You can put a pressure gauge where the T fitting is on top of the fuel tank. With the in-tank-pump running, you should see around 5-7 psi there. I left my gauge plumbed in because.....I can. I like the visual that the pump is working when I do my walkaround inspection.
If you put a gauge where the red arrow shows, it would sit after the booster pump and you would see 30-40 psi at idle and up to 80 psi at full rpm (varies with throttle and rpm).
Picture is courtesy of
joshs1ofakindxj
If you put a gauge where the red arrow shows, it would sit after the booster pump and you would see 30-40 psi at idle and up to 80 psi at full rpm (varies with throttle and rpm).
Picture is courtesy of
joshs1ofakindxj
- 7,716
- 19,765
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
Dang good idea. A real mechanical gauge on the tank would be a nice way to verify pump pressure. Especially while you are "building air" as you walk around the truck and kick the tires n stuff
- 7,409
- 2,503
- 113
- Location
- Interlachen Fl.
Myself a gage with a bleed between the secondary and final that scales up to 100 psi can be a good thing. As said above 30 min idle and 60 psi min. high idle. As for a gage at the tank to measure up to 10 psi at the tank is an ok Idea. Myself if I turn on the master I check to see if the bleed screw is putting out fuel I am happy and know the in tank is pumping. This can be done when you are doing the morning inspection when you raise the hood to check oil level, belts, and fluids so one gage for me at the fuel filters to check running pressures. Also do not forget the hydro lock check before it starts!
Last edited:
Jakob
Member
- 722
- 5
- 18
- Location
- Louisville, KY
What size of fitting is needed to fit there and on the fuel tank? My best guess is 1/8" NPT, but I'm not positive.
- 3,256
- 3,349
- 113
- Location
- NORTH (Canada)
On the fuel tank it is 1/8. I used a 90 degree elbow 1/8 male to 1/4 female to fit a standard 1/4 in gauge. Take with a grain of salt...going from memory here.
Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
- 6,426
- 4,985
- 113
- Location
- Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Did I miss the part whereas you changed out all the filters, pulled the lift pump and renewed the hose?Put a gauge into the test port and don't loose that little plug you took out. I used 1/8NPT elbow and a good gauge. Never ever have to wonder what the pump output is again.
Attachments
Jakob
Member
- 722
- 5
- 18
- Location
- Louisville, KY
Lift pump visually checked - physically everything was good, but I don't know if the pump itself is working. There IS noise coming from it.
Filters only have about 1000 miles on them, but they're probably 10 years old and I run filtered WMO. Probably could use a changing.
I'm going to get fuel pressure gauges and leave them mounted so as to check pressure any time.
m715mike
Well-known member
- 2,797
- 3,823
- 113
- Location
- Montgomery, Texas
@Floridianson, what is the hydro lock check?
18operator
Well-known member
- 1,093
- 1,855
- 113
- Location
- Seville, Ohio
My hydro lock check is as follows:
Turn on pump.
Have engine stop pulled
Push engine start button and turn over engine for a few seconds.
Then I proceed to start the engine.
Turn on pump.
Have engine stop pulled
Push engine start button and turn over engine for a few seconds.
Then I proceed to start the engine.
- 6,426
- 4,985
- 113
- Location
- Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Read the operators manual
This is not a Honda