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"Sticky" Throttle 1083 A0 w/ 3116

Shiflett

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
28
28
18
Location
32789, Florida
My throttle sticks at about 1/3 "remaining" when I let off the pedal. I have replaced the two throttle return springs...but that wasn't enough. I'm now going through para. 4-18 "Throttle Control Cable Replacement/Adjustment" procedure. Curious, before I try, if anyone has sent lubricant down the cable just above #7 in the diagram below (throttle rod from the pedal and bell crank) and had this issue fixed. The engine side doesn't seem to bind and the hand throttle is not interfering with the assembly.

M1083 A0 Throttle Control Cable.png
 
Last edited:

coachgeo

Well-known member
5,150
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113
Location
North of Cincy OH
yes... sorry though do not remember details.

Try searching with terms [ lube cable throttle lubrication ] seem to recall post on this here. seem also to recall posting of a vid on lubricating cables.
 

DeMilitarized

Well-known member
390
994
93
Location
Gainesville, GA
My throttle sticks at about 1/3 "remaining" when I let off the pedal. I have replaced the two throttle return springs...but that wasn't enough. I'm now going through para. 4-18 "Throttle Control Cable Replacement/Adjustment" procedure. Curious, before I try, if anyone has sent lubricant down the cable just above #7 in the diagram below (throttle rod from the pedal and bell crank) and had this issue fixed. The engine side doesn't seem to bind and the hand throttle is not interfering with the assembly.

View attachment 915794
Throwing a penetrating oil or lubricant in my experience has completely eliminated the problem and others they still have a small snag at the very end of the throttle. I would recommend.
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
5,150
3,466
113
Location
North of Cincy OH
My throttle sticks at about 1/3 "remaining" when I let off the pedal. I have replaced the two throttle return springs...but that wasn't enough. I'm now going through para. 4-18 "Throttle Control Cable Replacement/Adjustment" procedure. Curious, before I try, if anyone has sent lubricant down the cable just above #7 in the diagram below (throttle rod from the pedal and bell crank) and had this issue fixed. The engine side doesn't seem to bind and the hand throttle is not interfering with the assembly.

View attachment 915794

 

aw113sgte

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
La Crosse, WI
Standard to lube cables, common on mountain bikes and motorcycles. Lightweight lube recommended to avoid too much grit/dirt attraction.
 

ckouba

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
614
1,750
93
Location
Oregon
There are also graphite lubes which have it (graphite) suspended in solution. The solution carries it into the sheathing but then will evaporate so dirt, etc... does not stick to cable and compound the problem, but it leaves the graphite behind to provide the glide. I know you can find it at bike stores, very common.
 

Shiflett

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
28
28
18
Location
32789, Florida
I used this Motion Pro cable luber on the engine side of the throttle cable to help push/guide lubricant into the cable. While it makes a mess, it worked. Lots of lubricant went into the cable, some went all over the engine. Bottom line, my throttle cable doesn’t stick anymore. I couldn’t reach the cab side of the throttle cable with this tool. I used a long spray nozzle tube from Amazon taped to a coat hanger to spray some lubricant on top of the cable opening. This was slow and minimally effective.
 

Attachments

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
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698
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
The pedal return is a combination of the pedal itself and the return spring on the motor. You can do a better spring to start. I have used the boot there, filled it with some lubricant and used air to push it thru the cable. If your pedal is worn thats going to be one of the bigger issues though
 

Shiflett

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
28
28
18
Location
32789, Florida
Agreed, I swapped out the springs first, thinking that was the issue only to learn new springs made no difference. I then started to read, pedal was good for me, the cable was my culprit.

Now that the return was working. I checked the throttle position sensor resistance and found it was good, so I “retrained” the transmission (6 power cycles, the pedal range).

no the truck shifts and behaves so much better/predictable. ATF also helped.
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
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7,553
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Location
Port angeles wa
Springs, plural. There are 2 on the governor end, one inside the other… ideally, when you use one of these lubricators, when y0u inject on one end, you should see it come out on the other. You can also flush dirt and contaminates out this way. Several good dry lubricants out there as mentioned...
 

Shiflett

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
28
28
18
Location
32789, Florida
Springs, plural. There are 2 on the governor end, one inside the other… ideally, when you use one of these lubricators, when y0u inject on one end, you should see it come out on the other. You can also flush dirt and contaminates out this way. Several good dry lubricants out there as mentioned...
Yep, two springs.
 
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