Strange Popping Noise Under Load

[Jeepsinker]

He still needs to pull BOTH rear axle shafts and drive it in front wheel drive to really eliminate the rear end. I feel it is something in there. With one axle shaft installed the guts still turn.

 

[chigger]

What about jacking it off the ground and spinning some components? Have you verified the parking brake has all it springs and is adjusted correctly? Some have had issues with that.

I did that and can not duplicate the noise with no load. Parking brake is good & adjusted correctly.

 

[chigger]

Did you completely disassemble the transfer case and wash every part to remove the metal shavings ? The magnet takes time to catch the shavings and isn't going to all of them .
How did you determine the roller bearings on the other shafts " were in perfect condition ? Just visual inspection ?

Transmission and transfer case was completely dissasembled. Everything cleaned and inspected. All bearings that weren't replaced were cleaned, inspected and oiled before install. Checked the transfer case after 900 miles and transmission after 300 miles. No metal at all on the magnets.

 

[Rmtaunton]

As jeep said lockers pop , pull both axle shafts

 

[silverstate55]

Have you thoroughly checked the rear axle third member? If the rear driveshaft was still in place, removing axles won't prevent the gears from turning.

As a process of elimination (barring any unseen issues in transfer case, as porkysplace alluded to), the problem appeared after the locker install, correct?

 

[chigger]

I say that since that is all I can think of that you did not cover originally that I would think of that could cause this issue. Driveshaft spline slipping?

I cleaned and checked the rear driveshaft splines and they look like new. I've even taken out the rear driveshaft and drove the truck using the front axle and problem still there.

 

[chigger]

Have you thoroughly checked the rear axle third member? If the rear driveshaft was still in place, removing axles won't prevent the gears from turning.

As a process of elimination (barring any unseen issues in transfer case, as porkysplace alluded to), the problem appeared after the locker install, correct?

That is correct. Problem appeared after installing the rear locker and shafts. I had a detroit locker and stock shafts until i broke one of the stock shafts. I upgraded to the Ouverson 2" shafts which included a new locker.

 

[mhassett]

I have an M342 and under load I get one pop when the framer is twisted. I assumed that to be a dog bone or spring popping.
Other than that while driving under load, no pop. May not be the same as your problem.
MHassett.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Put the rear driveshaft back in ( or leave it out, doesn't really matter for this), then pull both rear axle shafts and drive it. If no pop( and I bet there wont be) it is in your rear end.

 

[rustystud]

Tell me if I'm wrong, but you only pulled ONE axle at a time ? Not both ? As Jeepsinker and others said you need to pull BOTH axles out of a "Detroit Locker" to make sure nothing in the carrier is causing the noise. You can run a differential with just one axle in a "Detroit Locker" and it will pull your truck .

 

[chigger]

Tell me if I'm wrong, but you only pulled ONE axle at a time ? Not both ? As Jeepsinker and others said you need to pull BOTH axles out of a "Detroit Locker" to make sure nothing in the carrier is causing the noise. You can run a differential with just one axle in a "Detroit Locker" and it will pull your truck .

Let me clarify...

I pulled one axle shaft to see if the locker was making the popping noise. With one axle shaft removed, the locker will not ratchet (make a noise), and remain locked. The noise was still there. I then completely removed the rear drive shaft. Drove the truck with front axle engaged and still pops. Given that the truck only pops while under load, I ruled out the rear end since there is no load being applied to the rear axle with the driveshaft removed.

 

[Jeepsinker]

You still can't rule it out until you pull the second axle shaft.

 

[M925Hound]

You still can't rule it out until you pull the second axle shaft.

I would have to agree with Jeepsinker! I think you need to pull both rear axel shafts and just leave the rear driveshaft in place. I bet the popping stops.

 

[Cheswood]

With one axle shaft removed, the locker will not ratchet (make a noise), and remain locked.

Just a quick note. Not intended rude in any form or fashion.

What you've stated is correct, provided it is working properly. If the center is cracked it will. Mainly though, just slow down and don't get keyed in on how it works, but rather that it may not be working. Common to Every living soul who's touched a wrench.

What they are saying is make sure part A is working and you'll know which side of part B to move on to.

 

[rustystud]

Let me clarify...

I pulled one axle shaft to see if the locker was making the popping noise. With one axle shaft removed, the locker will not ratchet (make a noise), and remain locked. The noise was still there. I then completely removed the rear drive shaft. Drove the truck with front axle engaged and still pops. Given that the truck only pops while under load, I ruled out the rear end since there is no load being applied to the rear axle with the driveshaft removed.

You need to understand how a "Detroit Locker" works. Basically it is a giant ratchet and the place where you would put the sockets on are where the axles would go. Even if you pull one axle, the other side will still work and rotate in the center section. You can drive a vehicle with just one axle in a "Detroit Locker" and it will still drive straight and make turns. This is one of the strengths of the "Detroit Locker" . What could be happening is one of the side gears is damaged and every time you drive it, it is jumping the cogs making this popping sound. Just like a ratchet with a broken tooth.

 

[rustystud]

I think our original poster does not understand the difference of all the types of locking differentials. A "Detroit Locker" is a specific type of locking differential, as is a "Air Locker" . Each type does the same basic function which is to try and give power equally to each axle. Some are better at it then others. The old GM "POSI" differential used clutches, the "Air Locker" actually locks the carrier with a sliding cog. The "Detroit Locker" uses a ratchet mechanism. The "Gleason Torson" uses a clever way of specially made spiral gears that "slid" as the carrier moves. All to achieve the same function of equal power to both axles. I know some will say that more power is suppose to go to the axle with traction, but the end result is the same. To understand a problem in any mechanical device you need to understand how it works. I had a problem with someone here awhile back trying to explain this to them and they only wanted to have a flame war. I am not trying to start a flame war here, just trying to spread some understanding.

 

[brianp454]

In short, rustystud is correct, as usual. I've seen many an argument over the years about all sorts of traction control differentials. Often there is a goofball that doesn't know jack in those situations. Any of the differentials that have any sort of traction control try to limit excessive spin (defined as side to side within any one differential) or in the case of a spool or air locker they prevent any of it. The rear of the deuce is different than many vehicles in that you cannot disconnect either rear differential. So, it requires that one intermediate and one rear wheel spin excessively for the entire rear not to have traction. Or in other words, if you add any sort of traction control differential to either rear axle it provides a great improvement in traction. The front in a deuce behaves effectively the same as a vehicle with a single rear axle, the torque of the driveline will give one side of a differential or axle a traction advantage as it pushes it to the ground and generally provides greater traction. The rear of the deuce is different in that the intermediate axle likely absorbs the drive torque (bending moment in engineering terms) and thus most prone to have excessive slip (in comparison to the rear axle) without a traction control device.

It's just that simple.

I think our original poster does not understand the difference of all the types of locking differentials. A "Detroit Locker" is a specific type of locking differential, as is a "Air Locker" . Each type does the same basic function which is to try and give power equally to each axle. Some are better at it then others. The old GM "POSI" differential used clutches, the "Air Locker" actually locks the carrier with a sliding cog. The "Detroit Locker" uses a ratchet mechanism. The "Gleason Torson" uses a clever way of specially made spiral gears that "slid" as the carrier moves. All to achieve the same function of equal power to both axles. I know some will say that more power is suppose to go to the axle with traction, but the end result is the same. To understand a problem in any mechanical device you need to understand how it works. I had a problem with someone here awhile back trying to explain this to them and they only wanted to have a flame war. I am not trying to start a flame war here, just trying to spread some understanding.

 

[chigger]

I think our original poster does not understand the difference of all the types of locking differentials. A "Detroit Locker" is a specific type of locking differential, as is a "Air Locker" . Each type does the same basic function which is to try and give power equally to each axle. Some are better at it then others. The old GM "POSI" differential used clutches, the "Air Locker" actually locks the carrier with a sliding cog. The "Detroit Locker" uses a ratchet mechanism. The "Gleason Torson" uses a clever way of specially made spiral gears that "slid" as the carrier moves. All to achieve the same function of equal power to both axles. I know some will say that more power is suppose to go to the axle with traction, but the end result is the same. To understand a problem in any mechanical device you need to understand how it works. I had a problem with someone here awhile back trying to explain this to them and they only wanted to have a flame war. I am not trying to start a flame war here, just trying to spread some understanding.

Rusty... If you are so smart, explain to me why there is a pop and a surge in the drive line only under power when the drive shaft is completely removed...

 

[porkysplace]

Rusty... If you are so smart, explain to me why there is a pop and a surge in the drive line only under power when the drive shaft is completely removed...

Most likely either because of abuse or something wasn't installed /rebuilt properly.

 

[wheelspinner]

Rusty... If you are so smart, explain to me why there is a pop and a surge in the drive line only under power when the drive shaft is completely removed...

Well I have been quiet but I see you are getting frustrated. Under power and rolling are two different things. You haven't been clear. Is it when you are rolling or ONLY when you are on the throttle ? Big difference. Also, you asked for help from people who aren't where you are and can't hear/feel/see what you can. They are giving you advice (which you asked for) based on their experience, not yours. Chill out a little. As dat as pulling both axles that does make a huge difference in isolating the locker from your problem. You will probably need to do each axle separately to eliminate both. Going back to your OP I believe it all changed after adding lockers. THAT is why the others are honing in on it.