Stripped Geared Hub Drain Plug...good extraction methods?

[T9000]

As I posted in another thread, one of the geared hubs drain plugs was stuck, the Allen key bent so much, I thought it will snap (it felt like 100 ft lb or even more). And with each pull, the drain plug head had more play...not good. I put some penetrating oil, but the whole thing is upside down and don't think it helped. Temporarily I pumped out as much oil as I was able thru the fill port and refilled with new oil.
I tried again last night and the fill plug allen head eventually stripped completely, Short of drilling the fill plug (as much as possible, I don't want to inject any shavings inside the hub, especially as the attached ferrite magnet will shatter when drilled), what options would you recommend? Hammer & Chisel? Ice/ torch to contract & expand then hit it again?

 

[GopherHill]

Find a tall nut that will fit the hex in the plug. Think spring hanger nut . Weld this to the plug, let cool for a few minutes, then unscrew.

 

[Coug]

Welding something else on sounds like the most logical next step to me.
Either a bolt or maybe an allen wrench into the hole.
Make sure you have a new plug on hand to go in when the old one comes out.

 

[T9000]

Find a tall nut that will fit the hex in the plug. Think spring hanger nut . Weld this to the plug, let cool for a few minutes, then unscrew.

Welding something else on sounds like the most logical next step to me.
Either a bolt or maybe an allen wrench into the hole.
Make sure you have a new plug on hand to go in when the old one comes out.

Yes, it makes total sense and I have new drain plugs, just never welded before.
The closest similar experience I have is soldering from millimeter electronic parts to water copper pipes.
I could get a welder and give it a shot, it seems like a pretty low risk job?

 

[springer1981]

Yes, it makes total sense and I have new drain plugs, just never welded before.
The closest similar experience I have is soldering from millimeter electronic parts to water copper pipes.
I could get a welder and give it a shot, it seems like a pretty low risk job?

Get someone that knows how to weld to do it. Or you can use the drill and extract method to remove the plug. Or you can just leave it as is and use the pump and fill method in the future too. That is the easiest and least risk.

 

[Mogman]

For future reference put some heat on it and/or if possible beat on the plug with a hammer (do not go nuts) before reaching the point where you strip whatever type of drive the plug has...
You want to do everything possible to not wind up where you are now.
If it were me and there was no indication of other issues I would just continue changing the oil the best I can on a rather shortened time schedule.
You know where you stand right now, you have no idea what is in Pandora's box...

 

[Coug]

Yes, it makes total sense and I have new drain plugs, just never welded before.
The closest similar experience I have is soldering from millimeter electronic parts to water copper pipes.
I could get a welder and give it a shot, it seems like a pretty low risk job?

I'd say somewhat minor risk, but if you do mess up you're out a hub casing.
If you don't have the gear or experience, then you're much better off taking it (either the assembly or the entire truck) to a machine shop/welding shop and have them do it.
With it on the truck you're talking overhead welding, which even just tack welding overhead can take a bit of fiddling with the settings to get done properly.

 

[Hummer Guy]

As I posted in another thread, one of the geared hubs drain plugs was stuck, the Allen key bent so much, I thought it will snap (it felt like 100 ft lb or even more). And with each pull, the drain plug head had more play...not good. I put some penetrating oil, but the whole thing is upside down and don't think it helped. Temporarily I pumped out as much oil as I was able thru the fill port and refilled with new oil.
I tried again last night and the fill plug allen head eventually stripped completely, Short of drilling the fill plug (as much as possible, I don't want to inject any shavings inside the hub, especially as the attached ferrite magnet will shatter when drilled), what options would you recommend? Hammer & Chisel? Ice/ torch to contract & expand then hit it again?

I always use a reverse drill bit on stripped screws, it works like a charm

 

[T9000]

For future reference put some heat on it and/or if possible beat on the plug with a hammer (do not go nuts) before reaching the point where you strip whatever type of drive the plug has...

I didn't think it will be this stuck as I had other stubborn ones, but which eventually gave in, but this one...gave nothing.
I did think about the heating (I have a propane torch) but AFTER the fact lol...of course...I can still do a few last resort heating/ cooling cycles to see if I could get it out with a hammer & chisel from the side as it is over 1/8' exposed.
Then will take it to a welding shop if that doesn't work.

 

[98G]

Least risk is use it as is.

2nd least risk is a left handed drill bit.

If you're not a welder, do not attempt welding. The potential for badness outweighs any benefits. Pay someone to do it.

 

[Action]

Lots of welding shops have a truck set up for on site jobs. See how much more for them to come to you.

 

[T9000]

Least risk is use it as is.

2nd least risk is a left handed drill bit.

If you're not a welder, do not attempt welding. The potential for badness outweighs any benefits. Pay someone to do it.

I would definitely pay someone to do the welding.

 

[blutow]

+1 on welding an allen key into/onto the stripped plug. It shoulld be pretty easy to get decent penetration all the way around with low risk to damaging the hub if the plug is sticking out a bit as you describe. You need a strong weld with good penetration or the welds will just snap once you apply big torque again. Heat and hammering should help. I'm not an expert welder by any stretch of the imagination, but this is easy stuff with a mig. If you don't have a neighbor or buddy with a portable mig, you might consider pulling off the entire hub and hauling it to a shop. House call with professional welder sounds expensive for a job that should be quick and cheap at a shop.

My biggest concern with drilling it out would be getting some metal bits in the case.

 

[blutow]

I should add - If you were ever looking for a excuse to buy a welder, take this one and run with it. With a little practice, pretty much anyone can be up and running with a mig welder using flux core wire and producing serviceable welds. It's one of those tools that might sit idle for long streches between projects, but I always find cool and useful stuff to do with mine.

 

[lpcoating]

I'd make a few phone calls to local weld repair shops and ask if you can bring the truck to them to weld the nut or bolt or whatever on the bogus plug. That would be a lot less work than pulling the hub.

 

[springer1981]

If you want to try extracting it yourself here is my favorite extractor set. Pick the largest one that doesn't exceed the thread size. Drill the center of the bolt, allen, plug, etc with the supplied drill bit. Then hammer the extractor pin in and slip the extractor nut over it. Slide it all the way up to the plug or broken bolt or whatever you are trying to remove. Then put a wrench on it and unscrew it. After it comes out, hammer the pin out with a punch if required and you're done.

Side note for anyone needing to remove glow plugs, I've only used it on Duramax Glow plugs but it worked so good that my diesel mechanic friend bought a set to replace his tools specifically designed for Duramax Glow plugs.

https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-35585-Extractor-4-inch-2-inch/dp/B000WQYJIG/

 

[Mullaney]

If you want to try extracting it yourself here is my favorite extractor set. Pick the largest one that doesn't exceed the thread size. Drill the center of the bolt, allen, plug, etc with the supplied drill bit. Then hammer the extractor pin in and slip the extractor nut over it. Slide it all the way up to the plug or broken bolt or whatever you are trying to remove. Then put a wrench on it and unscrew it. After it comes out, hammer the pin out with a punch if required and you're done.

Side note for anyone needing to remove glow plugs, I've only used it on Duramax Glow plugs but it worked so good that my diesel mechanic friend bought a set to replace he tools specifically designed for Duramax Glow plugs.

https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-35585-Extractor-4-inch-2-inch/dp/B000WQYJIG/

View attachment 863226

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This kit is really amazing. Good quality stuff too - and the drill guides keep you centered on the thing you are drilling - rather than chewing up your good threads!

 

[Carrera911]

Welding is my go to method, I’ve pulled a few like that.

Another good trick when I’m away from the shop is torx sockets. Get the tightest fitting one you have, hammer it in really well. Stick it in an impact, push into it as hard as you can and give er. Haven’t had one not come out that way. Depending on the sizing might need to take a larger torx and grind a taper into the top and really hammer it in well.

Won’t damage anything and if it fails you can still do the weld method.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TOBASH]

I have had great success with similar issues by ripping a straight valley across the top with a Dremmel and using a large screwdriver to twist in that valley like it is the top of a regular flathead screw. You can also use a hammer on the screwdriver if you place it eccentrically to force the stuck piece to turn.

Then discard the item and get a new one to replace it.

 

[Lothar]

You may be able to trim the tip off of a spiral easy out until you reach the right diameter, and tap it into the stripped hole. With a little bit of heat to the casing and a lucky bite from the easy out, you could have it fixed for a few dollars.