Survival 109 build

[ODFever]

How do you plan on repairing the rusted out places? If you plan on welding in new steel, I'd be a little concerned that the surrounding metal might heat up and melt nearby insulation.

 

[maddawg308]

Love this build! Not sure how long it has taken for you to get to this point (you started the thread on 9-7-14 and I doubt you got all this done in the past 3 weeks), but you're making great progress!

BTW - love the bumper mounted Wilton vise. And many others love it to. That vise is worth $200 easy. If I were you, I'd take a MIG welder and spot weld the bolts holding that on to the truck, to prevent anyone quickly unbolting it if you're ever out in the world and you come across someone not very trustworthy. There have been a couple guys around the shows here, who have had the more expensive vises taken off their wreckers, etc. Just spot welds, you're not trying to make the vise permanent, if you ever need to remove it, you can take a small grinder and grind the spot welds off quickly.

 

[QUADJEEPER]

in post #72 " Also created a low buck emergency air cut off in case of a run away".

What did you use to seal off the fording kit intake on port side of the air cleaner?

I used a bolt and nut with a couple of washers and a heavy rubber bushing to seal it.

 

[QUADJEEPER]

How do you plan on repairing the rusted out places? If you plan on welding in new steel, I'd be a little concerned that the surrounding metal might heat up and melt nearby insulation.

The only places I need to weld in metal are the under floor area's. No insulation there. Will be removing the wood floorboards first.

 

[QUADJEEPER]

Love this build! Not sure how long it has taken for you to get to this point (you started the thread on 9-7-14 and I doubt you got all this done in the past 3 weeks), but you're making great progress!

BTW - love the bumper mounted Wilton vise. And many others love it to. That vise is worth $200 easy. If I were you, I'd take a MIG welder and spot weld the bolts holding that on to the truck, to prevent anyone quickly unbolting it if you're ever out in the world and you come across someone not very trustworthy. There have been a couple guys around the shows here, who have had the more expensive vises taken off their wreckers, etc. Just spot welds, you're not trying to make the vise permanent, if you ever need to remove it, you can take a small grinder and grind the spot welds off quickly.

Thanks, been working on it for about 10 months. Have had it since late last May. Took awhile to get started on it. I get on it from time to time, not continuously. Just decided to start the thread and catch up on the build. The winch is welded to the hitch, the hitch is locked to the receiver, and it is welded and bolted to the bumper. If they want to take it, the bumper goes with it. Thanks for the warning. Sticky fingers are everywhere.

 

[61sleepercab]

Thanks for the pictures of what is inside the box walls. With all that foam, are you planning to haul freezer pops and push ups and become the local ice cream truck? How are you going to resurface the box interior? ........ Are you going to cover the wiring or use conduit?
I was thinking of some kind of sound deadening surface to cut down on the tin can sound echo chamber. I was thinking of some areas covered with cork panels or some other porous covering that can be glued in place. Our County Commission tried to save money and painted acoustical ceiling tiles in a Court hallway with marble wainscoting and terrazzo floor. You could hear every footstep and whispered conversation, the Judge ordered the tiles replaced!!!
I am thinking of buying a old motor home for the fixtures..... heater, Onan generator, cabinets and scrap the aluminum and ebay the big block Dodge or make a Rat Rod to pay for the cost. Keep up the good posts.....Mark

 

[QUADJEEPER]

Thanks for the pictures of what is inside the box walls. With all that foam, are you planning to haul freezer pops and push ups and become the local ice cream truck? How are you going to resurface the box interior? ........ Are you going to cover the wiring or use conduit?
I was thinking of some kind of sound deadening surface to cut down on the tin can sound echo chamber. I was thinking of some areas covered with cork panels or some other porous covering that can be glued in place. Our County Commission tried to save money and painted acoustical ceiling tiles in a Court hallway with marble wainscoting and terrazzo floor. You could hear every footstep and whispered conversation, the Judge ordered the tiles replaced!!!
I am thinking of buying a old motor home for the fixtures..... heater, Onan generator, cabinets and scrap the aluminum and ebay the big block Dodge or make a Rat Rod to pay for the cost. Keep up the good posts.....Mark

Ice cream truck, that's an idea! Extra cash is always good. Will be most likely using 1/4" plywood or equivalent for interior finish. Wiring will be run in the stock overhead channel and through the grommeted ( spell check?) holes in the structure when possible. May end up with some cable run in chases behind the cabinets too. Am using stranded Romex boat cable for the AC circuits. Will have varied enough surfaces for sound to not be an issue. Did consider a used rv of some sort for parts, but most are outdated and inefficient equipment, so going with what I can get at the lowest cost and in good condition. Some new and some used.

 

[infidel got me]

Nice clean work you are the wiring master what are your plans 4 the shelter?hope to see some upgrades done to it.outstanding so far cant wait 2 see when finished

 

[QUADJEEPER]

Nice clean work you are the wiring master what are your plans 4 the shelter?hope to see some upgrades done to it.outstanding so far cant wait 2 see when finished

Thanks infidel, glad you like. Shelter will mostly be my "closet". Will start on that when the 109 is (if) done. It will also have at least 90 gallons of fuel capacity and 50 gallons of water on board. I also plan on it being an aux. electrical source with panels, batteries and an additional generator.

 

[61sleepercab]

I have plans to stay mainly 12 volt in the box side of truck with a combination of roof solar panels and I have a small Hatz single cylinder diesel with 12 volt starter. I plan a small amp GM alternator charging a battery bank located under the truck some where. I believe in KISS Keep it Simpler Stupid !!!! I am thinking one fuel for truck and generator, small quiet engine for heavy recharge of battery bank with solar power to keep battery bank topped off. There are lot of 12 volt lighting options and I will wire in 110 volt shore power with GFI protection. I used to have a Ford ambulance with 12v/110 v capacity and camped in it with good success. Keep the good posts going and thanks for the inspiration . Mark

 

[QUADJEEPER]

I have plans to stay mainly 12 volt in the box side of truck with a combination of roof solar panels and I have a small Hatz single cylinder diesel with 12 volt starter. I plan a small amp GM alternator charging a battery bank located under the truck some where. I believe in KISS Keep it Simpler Stupid !!!! I am thinking one fuel for truck and generator, small quiet engine for heavy recharge of battery bank with solar power to keep battery bank topped off. There are lot of 12 volt lighting options and I will wire in 110 volt shore power with GFI protection. I used to have a Ford ambulance with 12v/110 v capacity and camped in it with good success. Keep the good posts going and thanks for the inspiration . Mark

Yes I will be mostly 12v dc in the box as well. Wiring some 12 and 110 now. I have been looking for a small 2 to 3k diesel generator for quite some time. Where did you find a Hatz diesel? What HP is it? I really want to stay all diesel for everything. I will be posting my solar panel pics tomorrow. They are just in the yard now undergoing some testing. Thanks for the input Mark.

 

[QUADJEEPER]

Don't ask how I know, but be aware if you soak the inside walls with Ospho rust treatment, it WILL leak out through the body seams and etch the exterior paint.

 

[61sleepercab]

My Hatz engine is a one cylinder that resembles a small Briggs and Straton air cooled engine with a starter attached. It is supposed to be Navy surplus off a sub? I will try to pull a picture of it on the site. It is more than you want to carry. I think it would turn a 35 amp GM alternator probably 4-5 hp. I have seen portable battery chargers with a small B+S with a alternator mounted on a plate so I think it will work.
My idea is to peek into the box insides and see how things are and use Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer or aluminum oil based paint which the oil field uses to paint a lot of stuff to protect metal outside. The truck I am trading for is mostly rust free on outside with three paint jobs, GI green, desert tan and three color camo? The inside is the bathroom green with one workbench with multiple drawers. I have a MKT 85 trailer fully equipped to play with along with a grist mill trailer with power unit and Meadows Mill . So I am thinking on a combo of truck hauling capacity for fairs, festivals and gas engine shows that I attend locally with some camping ability.
I am looking to build up the front 1/2 of the box with living area/ counter top, cabinets,shelves and leave the floor and waist high area at the rear for dry cargo in the back. I went to the Midwest Threashers Reunion in Iowa for 6 day camping out of a tent and a Dodge crew cab truck with topper cooking and camping with a buddy. We had a blast and developed our camp systems but tearing down and resetting camp is a PIA and could be minimized with a base vehicle kept packed with a tent or sun shade for more room. I figure a fold up porch out back because going directly out the door onto the Gi ladder seem to be a recipe for my own personal disaster when I land in a heap. I would like to include some outside fold down work table/gas stove cook top area along the side somewhere, maybe a slide out from under the truck box behind the rear duals. Can't wait to recover the Mobile Man Cave from PA and let the games begin. Keep up the good posts. I will try to do a thread when I start to help others. Mark

 

[rustystud]

Don't ask how I know, but be aware if you soak the inside walls with Ospho rust treatment, it WILL leak out through the body seams and etch the exterior paint.

I love that Ospho, but your right about it going where it is not wanted ! I usually use Ospho as a last resort sort of thing when I don't care what gets coated or I want everything to get coated .

 

[QUADJEEPER]

I have set up in the yard the solar components for the 109. Four 250 watt 36 volt panels, four for now AGM batteries, and a charge controller. Panels will just fit on top of the roof. Planning on up to 12 batteries, space permitting. My idea is to cut out the center forward floor of the box and have an area there for the batteries. Center and low for the weight. That's why I am using AGM's as they don't need venting.

 

[sojourner]

Scott, this is a phenomenal build! Everything is top notch, you're going to be ready that's for sure. I'm working on something but in a smaller scale.
Whose solar panels did you use? I'm looking at 3 renogy 100 watt panels but will be only adding one at a time.
Do you know if the charge controller allows you to increase the voltage? Most are set at 12.5 but you optimally want 14.4 going to the bats.

Edit just noticed the display reads 100% at 13.4 can it be upped to 14.4?

Also Mark (61speepercab) I'd like to see your generator set up. I went the briggs route and added a compressor, here's a demo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55sgd5AcX24

 

[QUADJEEPER]

Scott, this is a phenomenal build! Everything is top notch, you're going to be ready that's for sure. I'm working on something but in a smaller scale.
Whose solar panels did you use? I'm looking at 3 renogy 100 watt panels but will be only adding one at a time.
Do you know if the charge controller allows you to increase the voltage? Most are set at 12.5 but you optimally want 14.4 going to the bats.

Also Mark (61speepercab) I'd like to see your generator set up. I went the briggs route and added a compressor, here's a demo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55sgd5AcX24

Thanks, glad you like, sojourner. Here are a couple of pics, one of a panel label and one of the spec sheet on the controller. Panels are Renogy, 1000 watts total. Controller is a 60 amp Ramsond Sunshield Pro. All voltages are adjustable with the on screen menu. I am using a Honda eu2000i inverter generator as a backup, but want something similar in diesel.

 

[61sleepercab]

Sojouner I like your set up. Does the compressor have a crankcase for oil? You have a compact outfit for sure. You are only missing an arbor for a grind wheel and wire brush ! Your set up reminds me of the old antique engine powered line shafts that powered multiple tools from one engine. I will show a picture of my engine asap.Mark

 

[rustystud]

Sojouner, you system is really cool. I think if someone adapted one of the many small diesel engines the military uses to this same purpose it would be an extremely useful addition to our trucks. Especially on long trips.

 

[sojourner]

Hey guys the compressor is a york so the oil is somewhat contained. There's an oil separator but the york does put oil in the system. There is a fix to limit it but I just add oil (only once since spring). If you do this for on board air, I'd try a horizontal engine. This not a recommended mounting position, the pulley should be vertical so im only getting 70 psi but it works to air up tires. I got a one wire 105 amp alternator for 67 bucks and works great.

The space I'm dealing with is only 12" high, 19" wide and 14" deep in the m725 storage box. The truck is diesel so I have keep gas separate. If I could get a little disel to fit, that would be the ticket. It would be great to see more guys doing this, I think an application like this is perfect.

For power solar really is the way to go, your set up Scott is really nice. Once I have solar, the generator is only back up. I have a thread on m715zone on this little set up I can post if its helpful.