tap for pyro

[WillWagner]

Stinger (a) The thing the geor into the exhaus gas flow.
Stinger (b) On a Cummins any way...There is a 1/8 NPT plug at the back of the governer housing on a PT..Pressure Timed..fuel pump. That plug is directly in back of the governer spring pack...the part of the pump that limits high end RPM. If you were to add..by drilling and inserting, or by welding, a piece of welding rod, or similar, 1 1/2 inches long, onto/into that plug. You can effectivly remove the governer on a PT fuel pump, ie, unlimited RPM.
The 855 will handle sustained RPM of up to 3000 RPM, and last, with one driver who has learned how to drive it. But, the L10 don't like that kind of RPM. They like to come apart at around 2800 sustained RPM

 

[steelsoldiers]

FWIW, I mounted the pyro for my EGT gauge in the manifold in both of my Dodges. One was a stock '04.5 600 Cummins and the other was a turned up 12V Cummins in my '95. No failures and very rapid response. I was amazed at how high my EGT's would get towing 8000 lbs with my stock 2004.5. I could push it to 1300+ easy on a long grade if I stayed on the pedal. I would have to back out of the fuel to keep it around 1200-1250. They really should equip the modern diesel truck with at least an EGT gauge. Best would be EGT, boost and tranny temp package. I think most of them come with a tranny temp gauge now.

Military content: Will, I need to talk to you about tweaking the 855 sometime. The 14R20 tires may slow my 818 down a bit and I would like to be able to pull some decent grades at road speed. Looks like I'll be adding a pyro. At least I don't have to worry about the turbo

 

[Recovry4x4]

Military content: Will, I need to talk to you about tweaking the 855 sometime. The 14R20 tires may slow my 818 down a bit and I would like to be able to pull some decent grades at road speed. Looks like I'll be adding a pyro. At least I don't have to worry about the turbo

Did you buy an M818 there Chris? I thought that might have been a quote but I checked all the way back to the beginning of the thread and I don't think it is. So what gives? Are you sporting some new green iron?

 

[BFR]

next question....
should I use antiseize when installing the probe?

 

[steelsoldiers]

Military content: Will, I need to talk to you about tweaking the 855 sometime. The 14R20 tires may slow my 818 down a bit and I would like to be able to pull some decent grades at road speed. Looks like I'll be adding a pyro. At least I don't have to worry about the turbo

Did you buy an M818 there Chris? I thought that might have been a quote but I checked all the way back to the beginning of the thread and I don't think it is. So what gives? Are you sporting some new green iron?

Kenny, ummm, yes I did. I had tractor envy real bad. Needs a winch and some bigger tires Stay tuned for a full story after it gets home.

BFR, I always installed with gray anti-seize.

 

[jimk]

BFR wrote:
next question....
should I use antiseize when installing the probe?

Yes. It doesn't have to be super tight.

Chris wrote:
I could push it to 1300+ easy on a long grade if I stayed on the pedal. I would have to back out of the fuel to keep it around 1200-1250.

After adding a 'D' turbo to an LD I had to turn the fuel down. The 12psi at 2500rpm I now use would seem, from those who have posted here, to be higher than the LDT factory setting. At this level I can also get it too hot (over 1000*F post-T) towing a load up hills, though only when running it at, or below, the lowest part of the operating range. It is now clear that at the 8-9psi(?) it gets set up with from factory would be safe here too. The lack of a gauge may be because, as set up, they have it 'idiot proofed' (as far as EGT). At 15psi( 2500rpm) it could be overheated much more easily. Not on flat terrain (perhaps on a hot day) but any small hill and in the middle of the operating range.The difference between 15 and 12si was a bit over 100*F, at most any rpm, while under load. JimK

 

[cranetruck]

........ The lack of a gauge may be because, as set up, they have it 'idiot proofed' (as far as EGT)..... JimK

Many multies have their FDC bypassed in the military and if the fuel isn't "turned down", they are no longer "idiot proof".

Question, is there a work order (MVO?) of some kind that specifies this procedure?

 

[buddy_holly]

My FDC has been bypassed, it doesn't have that cute little sticker on it so I'm not sure if it was done by the mil or the previous owner, but how is this done? How can I check on it? I don't want to be driving around in a deuce w/ no pyrometer and unbeknownst to me the EGT is burning everything up

 

[buddy_holly]

Ok that post made no sense. What I meant is how do I know if the fuel has been turned up? I know how the FDC is bypassed, that isn't my question. I have no idea if the fuel amount is where it's supposed to be and with no pyrometer I could be running a high EGT.

 

[ttfiveohranger]

Always ALWATS place EGT Pyrometer sensor before the turbo!!! After the turbo is plain crazy . Don't skimp too much on the sensor and gauge either. The EGT is arguably the most important thing to know on your diesel. Accurate oil pressure and coolant temp are good to. Notice a problem before you have over 1000 lbs of scrap metal under your hood. Exhaust temperatures can be much higher pre-turbo. You can NOT rely on a range post turbo. It depends on many variables. With 2 brand new motors running perfectly this would be half safe. Fuel systems wear and have variance. Turbos create back pressure. The higher temperature on the piston side is what you need to read period. On high performance engines is not uncommon to have a separate EGT sensor for each cylinder inches from the exhaust port on the head. Having your injectors and injection pump tested is a good idea if your planning on upping the hp a lot. Remember PRE-TURBO for EGTs.....