Terminus M1009

[cucvrus]

 

[cucvrus]

Does anyone know? Has that cross member been messed with? I don't recall seeing one with slotted holes before. They don't look very well slotted either. So it don't look original to me.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

my 85 1/2 ton truck (civvy) had a slotted one(top), replaced it with a 86 1 ton one(bottom). Curiously I have never seen another slotted although I honestly never really looked to see, only on the ones when the bed was off.

the slots on mine seemed pretty smooth, and still had the factory rivets holding in the cross-member so

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Looks to me like it was slotted with a cutting torch. Maybe the factory one was trashed and someone changed with a junk yard one that needed some massaging to fit. That might be the factor one and some took it off to work on the truck and it got ran over with a forklift or something and the just tweaked the holes instead of straighting it.

 

[cucvrus]

These bearings looked really good for not being apart in the last 20 years. I think I am going to use a piece of 4" x 4" x 1/4" steel angle to help strengthen the frame where the cross member attaches. I seen these flanges bent on several vehicles in the past. The transfer case is tight up against the floor rubbing.

 

[cucvrus]

View attachment 596970

my 85 1/2 ton truck (civvy) had a slotted one(top), replaced it with a 86 1 ton one(bottom). Curiously I have never seen another slotted although I honestly never really looked to see, only on the ones when the bed was off.

the slots on mine seemed pretty smooth, and still had the factory rivets holding in the cross-member so[/QUOT

Those are not transmission cross members you are showing me.

 

[cucvrus]

Looks to me like it was slotted with a cutting torch. Maybe the factory one was trashed and someone changed with a junk yard one that needed some massaging to fit. That might be the factor one and some took it off to work on the truck and it got ran over with a forklift or something and the just tweaked the holes instead of straighting it.

You have one heck of an imagination. Why would a forklift have run over it? Why not a 5 ton or lets get real fancy. My Son drove over it with his Osh kosh Marine Corp 7 ton just for the fun of it. And to get Dad fired up.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Those are not transmission cross members you are showing me.

yeah, missed the other post on other page, I saw crossmember, then the pics, and assumed it was on of the frame members.

but here is the right one,

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=427695

looks pretty close to yours

 

[CUCVLOVER]

You have one heck of an imagination. Why would a forklift have run over it? Why not a 5 ton or lets get real fancy. My Son drove over it with his Osh kosh Marine Corp 7 ton just for the fun of it. And to get Dad fired up.

You never know when the haunted forklift (The Demon Lift the killer of crossmembers) might run through your shop. Lol.
I thought you might think I was BSing if I said that it must have been molested by a het or 10 ton dump truck.

 

[cucvrus]

I have used bar clamps to get these back in. The frames spread apart and they are hard to get lined up. I never would have thought of cutting the holes bigger. That is probably why the thing bent in the first place because it was not as stout as it was designed. I had it high centered on a couple rocks at Rausch and today on the power line and it a creek bed. Never got stuck. Just beat the underside up. Never hurt it. I will be adding a few skid plates and a frame rail reinforcement.

 

[cucvrus]

Anyone know if the spacers are needed that hold the cross member to the frame flange? And if so what is the purpose of the spacers and is there a special way they must go on? I always see them spacer on top on 1 side and then the other has the spacer on bottom. But never the same side top or bottom. Any one know the correct way? Ideally I would like to move up to 1/2" bolts and do away with the spacer. Any bad results from that?

 

[timarr]

Rick, You can toss the spacers and redrill for the 1/2 bolts. If you put the spacers between the cross member and frame it will change the driveline angle so u joints dont bind. Alot of 4x4 lift companys make blocks to do the same thing.

 

[cucvrus]

I have 2 pieces of 1/4' X 4" X 4" steel angle I was going to bolt on and add some strength to that lower frame flange. As it is now it has taken a beating twice now. It seems to be bending up and if i add the steel angle to the outside of the frame and bolt it on the face of the frame and just use it as doubling on the flange. I think that will work. ???? What do you think. I want make it look nice and add strength. I have another cross member that i am going to beef up and add some steel angle to for strength and to give it a skid edge instead of a flat catch edge. You know what I mean?

 

[timarr]

I see your vision it will be 2 rails to ride over and strengthen the frame as will! have at it!

 

[cucvrus]

Merry Christmas Terminus M1009. Just returned from the Zone. Lots of new parts for Terminus M1009. After pulling down a house I figured it was due some maintenance. Somebody could have bought M1009 this from me and I would not be having all this fun. Oh well just another day to play. I will report my progress later.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

I don't know your luck with duralast products, and while I can use most of the products from the Zone, the one I stay away from is the balljoints-I have yet to have one last for more then 3 months-course I stopped getting them after the third free replacement.

I do like the work you have been putting into this truck

 

[cucvrus]

I have no problems with any of the Autozone parts as long as the application is correct. I had motor mount problems in the past because I was getting the wrong ones. Ball joints are usually incorrectly installed. That is what most failures are a result of. People just beat on everything with hammers. I seen it I worked in parts in the past. I have a press and I use it to put ball joints and u joints in. No hammering in parts going on here. My Crown of thorns M1009 has all Duralast ball-joints and tie rod ends. Same as other parts these days all imports. Means nothing to me if it fits. Crown of Thorns has the same suspension for 6 years and 60K miles. Not sure what you had going on with your joints. Happy Holidays.

 

[cucvrus]

This C clamp press makes short work of ball joints and U-joints. No need to hammer on the new parts. I watched guys beat ball joints and U-joints in place with hammers. This C clamp is easier on you and the new parts. This is part of a master ball joint, bushing press, and U-joint press that I bought from the tool man several years back. I used to use the hammer and anvil method and the vise method. This system works much better with the cordless 1/2" impact. Thanks for looking. Happy Holidays.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

I have the same C-clamp tool. Works amazing, using the right adapters One can pretty much rebuild the front end in less then half a day, or less depending on how much rust one has to fight pulling it apart

 

[cucvrus]

I am Back. I just took a vacation and went to Wisconsin visited friends and was in a Spelling Bee. So I hope all my words are spelled correctly and I use the proper punctuation. It a spelling bee for old guys that graduated in the 60's/70's. I did my boot camp in the mid 70's so I am a bit lax on the proper discipline at the motor pool. Anyway. The Terminus M1009 was torn down for some heavy maintenance to the front axle u-joints , lock outs, all new upper and lower ball joints, and the brake calipers. I am going to replace the master cylinder also on Terminus M1009. It had some crappy looking brake fluid in the calipers. They were probably the original ones. I already changed the rear wheel cylinders and rebuilt the rear brakes completely. New cables, brake shoes, axle seals and all new hardware. This is my off road only vehicle. Imagine how well I take care of the ones I drive everyday over the road.