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Test running multi outside of truck - suggestions?

cattlerepairman

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Rebuilt LDS is almost done; just putting the flywheel and clutch on. I don"t think I am brave enough to just put the engine into the truck and keep my fingers crossed that she will run and run right. I'd like to try her out before I go through the pain of lifting everthyng in.

My plan is to have the engine on a pallet, supported by blocks at the mounting points and the bell housing and strapped to the pallet with two cargo straps so she cannot wander or fall over.

I would hook up a main fuel line and a return line to a jerry can. Perhaps have the jerry can elevated for ease of pumping for the IP?

2x12V batteries and a set of jumper cables to turn the starter.

Piece of 2x6 handy in case of runaway.

Anything else I should do?
 

Recovry4x4

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That is about it. I've done them in the can and on a pallet but the pallet was on a trailer and the whole thing was attached to the trailer. Common sense is worth volumes here. Lessons learned. I will never drop an engine in that wasn't ground hopped.
 

cattlerepairman

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Cooling? If you run it long enough to evaluate, wouldn't it get hotspots?
Good point. If I do it on the trailer (I like that idea), and use the 2.5t front mounts with the rad bracket, then I can also install the factory radiator and that should take care of the cooling issue.
 

cattlerepairman

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Did you rebuild the engine? What all work did you do to it?
New rod and main bearings, new piston rings (my engine has the new style LDS pistons that take 3 rings; I know there is some confusion going on about these rings not fitting the conventional LDS pistons), new heads (new style) and new head gasket. Cleaning everything in the process.

Nothing happened over the winter. I just got my flywheel back from resurfacing and will swap the 2.5 ton bell housing over, then mount flywheel and new clutch.


It always amazes me how little I get done on any given day, in the bigger scheme of things, working alone on this project! And I feel busy! Maybe my attitude needs re-calibrating.
 

Wildchild467

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New rod and main bearings, new piston rings (my engine has the new style LDS pistons that take 3 rings; I know there is some confusion going on about these rings not fitting the conventional LDS pistons), new heads (new style) and new head gasket. Cleaning everything in the process.

Nothing happened over the winter. I just got my flywheel back from resurfacing and will swap the 2.5 ton bell housing over, then mount flywheel and new clutch.


It always amazes me how little I get done on any given day, in the bigger scheme of things, working alone on this project! And I feel busy! Maybe my attitude needs re-calibrating.

Let me know how you make out with those "LDS Piston Kits" I didnt have any luck with mine and had lots of blow by. Don't throw out your old pistons! Not trying to be a negative nancy, just proceed with caution. I hope they work out for you.

My mom always told me it doesn't always matter how much you do, just as long as you are a little closer to your goal every day. Even if its a small step, its a step in the right direction. It will all come together... and it does. It seemed to me to take forever to work on my deuce and get the engine all fixed. Then after a while it all seems to take shape and you can see the finish line. I hope this helps.

Did you do the modification on the rear main seal housing? It is listed in the TM to drill extra drain holes in the seal housing to allow for extra oil draining back to the pan.
 

Recovry4x4

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I'm not collecting deuces any longer but when I did, I finally got smart enough to pull and replace engines as a power pack. When doing such, the radiator, hoses and associated stuff are installed on the ground. Mine would even have the correct coolant in place before the install. It's worth it.
 

cattlerepairman

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I'm not collecting deuces any longer but when I did, I finally got smart enough to pull and replace engines as a power pack. When doing such, the radiator, hoses and associated stuff are installed on the ground. Mine would even have the correct coolant in place before the install. It's worth it.
Yes....I pulled engine and tranny (with PTO) as a unit and learned the hard way that the transmission cover HAS to be taken off and that the PTO in combination with the winch still on the truck creates a PITA situation to lift the combo out. There is still some damage in the engine compartment I need to repair....scraped the brake line that runs along the front axle, bent the firwall cut-out and bent the ether start bottle and bracket.
Live and learn...and fix some more!

I have to be weight-conscious as well. I would love to have access to a proper service truck with a 3 ton knuckleboom at the end. For me it is make do with a tractor and pallet forks.
 

swbradley1

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We pulled mine with the transmission cover still on, just take the shift lever off the top.

Be mindful of the air line to the compressor. It was the only thing we crushed upon reassembly.
 

M543A2

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We have run engines in the container. Similar to the set-up pictured elsewhere in this string but with mounts on the front flange of the can for a radiator and a fan belt tightened by an idler so we can run it as long as we wish without damage. Hot spots develop very quickly with no coolant! Don't ruin your hard work.
Regards Martin
 

tennmogger

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The hot spots are going to be internal. A water hose plumbed into one of the engine's radiator connections, and the other radiator connection extended up to keep water in the block, works. I have needed to run a Unimog OM-352 loose engine a few times. No doubt there are many other methods.

It's also a good idea to have a way to monitor oil pressure.
 
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