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The Deuce is Dead...

RACKSBBQ

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So I'm driving and the gauge lights are not working, so I figure the bulbs are out..... Someone mentioned to me that it might be the accessory switch... Hmmm I'm gonna check it out.. So I go to start the Deuce.... And nothing. It's dead now.

Theory is accessory switch is gone so it stayed "on" & killed my batteries.. With the first clue it was not turning on gauge lights.... Or just coincidence and bulbs are out & batteries just dead.

How do I tell which gremlin is the culprit???
 

fuzzytoaster

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Test each battery with a Multi-meter after its disconnected from the circuit. If the batteries are dead, charge em and retry starting. If she doesn't turn over then there you go.
 

73m819

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dash lights are controlled by the light switch.

I really think you just might need to read a FEW TMs, starting with the -10

You can find the TMs here
UPDATED LIST
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
JATONKAM35s HOME ON THE WEB
OR
Free Military Army Manuals!
OR
Former Military Vehicle Owners - Index
OR
ARMY 6X6: SERVICE MANUALS
OR
MilitaryTrucks.ca Website - M135 --Canadian trucks
OR
america1 --------------------------------Military Radios
OR
https://www.logsa.army.mil/etms/ind...5fb95459e-A3015A99-D14A-19E1-238F1793FB3D9566
This is the mil. TM web site,
--says bad cert., click to go anyway,
 

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Akicita

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With the accessory switch on, you might have heard the in-tank fuel pump. When air pressure dropped to 60 psi, the buzzer would have sounded. That would eventually drain the batteries.

Before I perform any kind of surgery on the truck I would put a meter to the batteries and see if you get a reading around 12V each, or 24V on both. If the batteries are low, you'll have to replace them.

If the batteries are not low, turn the accessory switch on and see if you can hear the in-tank pump and of you can get the headlights to work. If not, check your wiring.
 

RACKSBBQ

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Batteries are low.... Like 3V. When you turn on switches you get nothing...no buzzer, no pump, no air, not even the faintest glow of life in the lights.... Dead as dead comes. Which I don't get because I drove it a week ago & have the solar charger
 

armytruck63

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Important: please check for Hydraulic Lock if your accessory switch was left on. The fuel pump will run as long as it has enough DC power and it could have filled a cylinder with Diesel fuel if you have a leaking injector.

One of our fellow SS'rs had this unfortunate experience recently.
 

Warthog

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Before starting any electrical diagnoses or repair you should always charge and load test your batteries.
 

glcaines

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Batteries are low.... Like 3V. When you turn on switches you get nothing...no buzzer, no pump, no air, not even the faintest glow of life in the lights.... Dead as dead comes. Which I don't get because I drove it a week ago & have the solar charger
First, read the TMs. Second, remove all battery cables and clean all connections. Recharge each batter separately with a 12 VDC charger. Re-attach all battery cables. Turn on accessory switch and attempt to start engine. If the engine starts, check charging circuit output. The needle should be right on the mark on the dash gauge.

I suspect the engine will start and either something was left on which depleted the batteries or your charging circuit is not putting out. Things to check if you left something on include:
1. Master switch
2. Heater blower switch
3. Lights

Check the above and get back to us, but first read the TMs.
 

pctrans

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I think you need to scrap that thing, and come back up here, so I can put you in a REAL truck!

Actually, that bumper decided it was embarassed to be seen in public, and won't let the truck start till you get it painted! :jumpin:
 

jasonjc

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Batteries are low.... Like 3V. When you turn on switches you get nothing...no buzzer, no pump, no air, not even the faintest glow of life in the lights.... Dead as dead comes. Which I don't get because I drove it a week ago & have the solar charger
Are you talking about the little 4-5inch solar panle the military uses??
 

Warthog

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Batteries are low.... Like 3V. When you turn on switches you get nothing...no buzzer, no pump, no air, not even the faintest glow of life in the lights.... Dead as dead comes. Which I don't get because I drove it a week ago & have the solar charger

Have you ever heard of a battery dying? Works one minute and dead the next.

You solar charger would make no difference if a cell died.


*** EDIT ***

Here is another post with the same problem.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/77302-6tl-battery-dead.html
 
Last edited:

stampy

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happened to me the other day (switch left on) and I ended up putting in 2 fresh batteries as one of my two wasn't holding a load on my tester.
 

LowTech

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I've heard this a few times and it doesn't make sense to me . . . how do you leave the switch on? You have to turn it off to pull the engine kill.
 

Troll1216

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Read the -10 and check to see if the generator is charging the batteries. I believe the voltage should be 27.5 volts (guesstimite) the -10 has it. Make sure the system is charging. Electrical gremlins suck!
 

glcaines

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27.5V hmmm...I wonder if this would be enough to run a 28 volt light. If so I have a really cool high beam deterant I wanna try out :twisted:
Vehicles, airplanes, etc. that utilize 24 VDC batteries are actually 28 VDC systems. The alternator / generator has to put out higher voltage than the batteries in order to charge them. You should be able to run your 28 VDC light.
 
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