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You have to remove the heater box, this mean coolant, why do you want to remove it?
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The Good, The Bad & The Ugly
- Thread starter Maxjeep1
- Start date
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Yeah, I was out early this morning and came to the conclusion that there’s no getting around it. Just Like Action said, it’s stuck with tape on top. I wanted to take it out and clean it up and to get tunnel mat screws. I was able to lift it up and clean underneath it. I will pull everything out after I get all the maintenance done and the repairs that it needs. I want to flush the coolant and that would be a great time to do it. My friend owns a body shop here and he’s going to paint it inside and out so sooner or later everything’s gonna come out.
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I think I’m missing some stuff. The hose that comes from the oil filler tube has a hose stuck inside it and that hose comes from the intake and thru the bracket that holds the cdr valve if I had one. I also have a small hose laying up by the intake cap and I believe it’s for the fuel tank. So I Probably need to replace the cdr that they removed and get the right hoses and clamps. Weird how they make a mess and call it demilitarization. While I was picking up my truck I talked to the guy running the yard and he said they cut up all the doors and armor and scrap it. Really nice stuff sitting there
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- Charlotte NC
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Genuinehumveeparts.com is the absolute worst of the worst website I have ever used! I will never buy anything from there even if I wanted to, because it will not allow you to check out because it says confirm UPS address and the confirm button is nowhere to be found and only the go back button. I tried 5 times and then I thought it was because I was checking out as a guest so I opened an account and tried 3 more times and had zero success! Called to order over the phone and the guy said that my email was very offensive and unprofessional. I told him it was to the point and easy to understand and he said your topic was You Suck. Lol that’s an accurate assessment of the current website that he says is run by a 3rd party ( that’s robbing them of sales) and he can’t take phone orders online only. I explained to him what was going on with the site and needs to be fixed but only after getting a scolding on how to be warm and fuzzy and everyone gets a participation trophy world that we live in. He suggested that I take more of my time explaining in a thoughtful way my issues so he can forward it to the 3rd party. If I was the owner I would be mad as hell and I would be great full that someone took the time to bring it to my attention. I called Mike at Kascar and ordered my battery hold down stuff and the EDR valve, hoses, clamps, nuts bolts and washers. 120.00 with shipping and that was cheaper than the place with the un useable website. I will post my email and see if it’s offensive after 8 attempts opening and account and entering your information at least 7 times.
email
I read it and I’m not offended and as a business owner I would want to no what’s going on!
What should offend you is that I just ordered 134.73 worth of stuff from Kascar and I did everything but beg to buy it from you! Maybe you can forward this feel good polite message to your 3rd party that’s costing you money
Email after conversation
I read it and I’m not offended and as a business owner I would want to no what’s going on!
What should offend you is that I just ordered 134.73 worth of stuff from Kascar and I did everything but beg to buy it from you! Maybe you can forward this feel good polite message to your 3rd party that’s costing you money
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Action
Well-known member
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I assume you meant genuinehumveeparts.com and not genuinehumvparts.com ?
genuinehumveeparts.com is AM General in Mishawaka, IN.
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Hahaha I’m still mad Action! Yes that’s exactly what I meant
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I checked out my brake light issue today. I seen that the cable brackets were against the caliper stops so it is fully disengaged and the fluid was full. I traced the wires coming off the sensor and they were not pinched and plugged in. Lever was really hard to engage so I adjusted it to where it had zero grab when applied but it was still hard to pull back. I started at the top of the handle and lubed all the contact points and stuck the straw down in the rubber boot and lubed it also. I worked it back and forth and it started to smooth out and at that point I adjusted it to where it would hold on the driveway. Hooked up the battery and turned to run waited for wait light to go out and started it up while seeing the red light staring me right in the face. I grabbed the brake handle and released it while looking at the red light and much to my surprise the damn thing went out! Thinking it was a accident I repeated the process 5 more times and it’s working perfectly now. I had a hard time with the shifters also so I opened up the boot and gave it a few squirts and moved it to get the other sides and it started shifting like it should. I still have the fuel gauge issue and I replaced the gauge and that didn’t fix it so I’m thinking sending unit. I think I’m going to put some fuel in it and take it out in the desert and see if the sloshing doesn’t work it out. Worse case it does nothing and I have a great time.
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Would anyone know how to interpret the markings on my truck. I understand the date and that’s about it.
Action
Well-known member
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- East Tennessee
The 13 digits translate to m1123.
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That’s amazing. They simplified it by replacing 5 digits with 13? Lol secret code I guess. Amazing amount of knowledge here. Thank you Action
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C/C is condition code meaning how much is wrong with it, yours is E.
Pres is preservation
LCN is location code, what pasture they parked it in
Pres is preservation
LCN is location code, what pasture they parked it in
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A is the best condition? Oh God is E bad? Goes from A-Z then E is good? Lol
My 14 year old said E is for Excellent.
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A through F with F being, well, same as in school
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Wow. My truck has very little wrong with it and 135 miles. The top and soft parts are sun rotted so maybe they take all things into consideration. Nice to know. Thanks NDT
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The condition code is part of why your truck was surplused, age is the other. There is some magical formula the military uses.
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I thought my truck was a solid 8 for the year and mileage and how good it drives. Maybe that’s why I always end up with a Fat girl? Hahaha 2 fours are an 8
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Just google “condition code E”
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Thanks! Doesn’t sound too bad after reading it.
E – Unserviceable limited restoration
Condition: Material which involves only limited expense or effort to restore to serviceable condition and which is accomplished in the storage activity where the stock is located.
springer1981
Well-known member
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I've ordered from there many times now and never had a problem. If you decide to try to order again, you could try a different internet browser as there might be some compatibility issue. I had 1 order that got slightly messed up and they were very helpful and resolved the issue over the phone.
I've also found that many times their pricing can't be beat.
Just my experience.