Y
Your just showing off now !!! lol I bet you had nightmares about crimping pex pipe after that !
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Third's Build Discussion
- Thread starter Third From Texas
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Third From Texas
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Yep, the main tank drain will remain plugged until needed. The temporary down spouts will both have caps with screen.
I'm also screening the two vents behind the fridge.
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Third From Texas
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Added my dawg washer.
I've sealed all holes that I cut in the hab with Flexseal.
Honestly, spray bed liner would have worked. Best I can tell, they are the same product (one just cures harder).
Cut, sealed, and mounted the fridge vents.
The upper one has 200mm 12v exhaust fan (leftover from a gaming PC build). The lower one pulls out to open and can be closed off when not in use.
I've sealed all holes that I cut in the hab with Flexseal.
Honestly, spray bed liner would have worked. Best I can tell, they are the same product (one just cures harder).
Cut, sealed, and mounted the fridge vents.
The upper one has 200mm 12v exhaust fan (leftover from a gaming PC build). The lower one pulls out to open and can be closed off when not in use.
So there is a plastic pipe in the back of your shower where the black hose (dog washer) goes in when stored tied direct to your plumbing so the black hose stays under pressure ????? And did that come as a built unit and you installed it or you built it ?
Third From Texas
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Nothing fancy. Just taps into the inside shower's supply. The hose disconnects and stows inside the hab for now (but later will go in the aft under bed box on that side). It stuck too far into the shower area, so I cut a 5/8" ring to stand it out a bit. It's coated in bed liner and looks pretty rough, but I can always pretty it up if I ever want to.
I like that ! looks well thought out design ! And im real sure you will find that sikaflex or better yet windshield ureathane is a world better over long periods of time in the harsh sunlight for all your permanent mounting locations and if something leaked you wont have to waste time looking at these locations !
Third From Texas
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I just used a couple coats of Flexseal on any exposed foam. I don't really expect any water to ever get past my seals, but did it for good measure. All the inserts are gasketed and sealed with a black marine silicone (forget the brand offhand). And when I paint the truck, everything will get an extra layer of protection from the elements. I'm going to have the roof of both cab and hab coated (in a light color for thermal reasons). Haven't decided on what material (either some RV roof stuff or shot with Rynoliner, etc). And I want to re-gasket all the marker lights. That should nip in the bud any possible leaks from above.
Got all the tools, plumbing, and hardware out of the truck. It's been slightly raining today with a big rain forecast for tomorrow so I'm on hold. No sense gutting all the wooden bits that need prep and paint and carry them into the house until I've got them prepped and painted. 90% of what I do (like paint) is in the open driveway and I've got no shelter from rain. If I gut and move it all into the house, it would just have to come right back out Monday for prep.
So today and tomorrow will be studying/documenting what electrical circuits I will be keeping. I need to get a basic schematic started (and leave room for the solar if I can ever afford it). But the ten grand thrown at a solar system would sure buy a lot of generator fuel over the years. And I fully support carbon-friendly alternatives...
;p
Copy that i took hundreds of pics with my phone to be able to go back to every wire /plumbing pex location with all of it buried in 3 1/2 in of spray foam insulation ! Im finally hooking up the cameras and microphones in each vent to the tvs for my virtual window thing ! All the cameras and mics and wire are plumbed i had to order 12v 1 amp power supply for the camera and i thought i could power them with straight 12v but noooooooo ! So should have them squared away by mid week only because i work slow and look for excuses to sit under the awning and have a cigar instead of work lol
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Yessir! And those pictures will be useful to the next owner for sure.
Always nice to know what was routed where - especially under a layer of foam.
I am looking forward to seeing the virtual windows!
That is going to add extra class to a nicely made steel box - secured from the criminal element.
Couldnt have glass with all the mad fat girls i have out there ! They can chunk rocks like a major league pitcher !
I think hes going to paint it purple and have a furry dash pad and dice in the front window cause hes the PIMP OF PADRE ISLAND !!!!
Third From Texas
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For the near future, yes. It's registered as "former military" so I'm keeping the theme.
I may or may not be able to register it as an RV in Texas at a later date. If I can, I may eventually go with another color scheme.
But for now it will retain the camo. I almost picked up paint the other day to redo it all (I am going to paint the roof section of the cab and hab a light tan to help reduce the heat). But it's high enough that most will never see it.
Third From Texas
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Here's how I'm going to try the hot water loop to the shower.
Originally I was going to add a solenoid-controlled diverter valve, but I don't think it necessary. With the faucet closed and the loop pump running, the water will only have one way to go so the diverter shouldn't be needed.
I settled on this little pump. I was going to go 24v, but had a hard time finding one that suited (most all had off sized slip-on barbs and I want to keep everything 1/2" NPT). Since I have 12v at the fridge right next to the shower, I went with this one since it has the 1/2" threads.
Basically, I fire up the water heater, switch on the loop until I'm ready to get in the shower. The water in the line will be preheated and no need to waste any running while the shower to warm up. The loop should be hot in under a minute. It was a $20 mod, so why not...
Originally I was going to add a solenoid-controlled diverter valve, but I don't think it necessary. With the faucet closed and the loop pump running, the water will only have one way to go so the diverter shouldn't be needed.
I settled on this little pump. I was going to go 24v, but had a hard time finding one that suited (most all had off sized slip-on barbs and I want to keep everything 1/2" NPT). Since I have 12v at the fridge right next to the shower, I went with this one since it has the 1/2" threads.
Basically, I fire up the water heater, switch on the loop until I'm ready to get in the shower. The water in the line will be preheated and no need to waste any running while the shower to warm up. The loop should be hot in under a minute. It was a $20 mod, so why not...
Might come in handy having a quasi military looking truck during the next election. You know just in case CCP and logic don't matter crowd start to incubate on a block or city near you...
Third From Texas
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OMG i dont know which looks worse those grab handles or them sidewalk sissy ctis condoms ! send em on up to rhino and he can bring them to the tn rally and pawn them off for ya and might as well send the grill all in one trip !
Third From Texas
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The weather has cleared and I'm back at it in the morning. No wind, temps in the 90's, 98% humidity, and mosquitos are already sortieing their attacks.
I'm at a point where I have to make a call that will add a good chunk of expense I was trying to avoid, but I know I'll regret not doing it.
The M1079 box is shite when it comes to insulation. Like most all military shelters, it's dreadfully poor insulation combined with the fact that it's one big aluminum thermal bride make it just as hot (or cold) on the inside skin as the outside. It consists of 2" of foam with aluminum skin on each surface. The framing is aluminum and everything is pretty much just attached toghter metal-to-metal.
If you're not familiar with thermal bridging, it's basically metal-to-metal transference of heat (or cold). Metal is a great conductor of heat, as we all know (just stick your hand in a hot cast iron skillet to prove the fact). Thermal bridging can be avoided by introducing a layer of non-heat-conducting material into the manufacturing process (like a layer of wood, etc). The military overcomes these design flaws by using 2-tons of house air conditioning to cool 100sq/ft box (or a warehouse blast furnace to heat the same).
Anyway.....
I'm debating adding a layer of insulation onto the walls and ceiling and bringing the new surface out 2". The height loss won't effect anything but losing 4" or habitat width is why I shifted away from this idea in the first place. But sitting in there tonight making note of where everything is bolted together (getting ready to gut it all for paint), I realized that four inches less horizontal space wouldn't really be an issue.
I figure I can use 2x2 as studs and secure it all with rivnuts and the existing taps into the main frame (where the steel wall skids were attached). I need to decide if I want to cover the wire tray or leave it accessible (I figure covering it would look best and I can leave a few small sections accessible so I could always blow a fish line thru if more wire runs became needed).
Then there's the matter of insulation and paneling choices that I can afford. In a perfect world I'd be rich and insulate with something 100% fireproof and then panel with StarBoard (but I'm poor and I can't afford $250 a sheet for ANYTHING).
What I can afford is whatever Styrofoam-based or fiberglass insulation is on sale at Home Depot covered with $25 /sheet PlasTex (which I used in the shower). I kinda hate the looks of the stuff, but it's what I can afford. I favor plastics as the humidity down here eats any of those particle/MDF/glued-together/coated pressboard materials (like Beadboard, etc). I'd prefer something that's already available locally and I've looked in the past and there's really not much of a choice that is 1) cheap, 2) plastic, 3) available locally.
Or just leave things as they are....
But if I'm gonna do it, I need to go get materials tomorrow because if I push this project deadline much further I'll be too old to use the damned thing.
I'm at a point where I have to make a call that will add a good chunk of expense I was trying to avoid, but I know I'll regret not doing it.
The M1079 box is shite when it comes to insulation. Like most all military shelters, it's dreadfully poor insulation combined with the fact that it's one big aluminum thermal bride make it just as hot (or cold) on the inside skin as the outside. It consists of 2" of foam with aluminum skin on each surface. The framing is aluminum and everything is pretty much just attached toghter metal-to-metal.
If you're not familiar with thermal bridging, it's basically metal-to-metal transference of heat (or cold). Metal is a great conductor of heat, as we all know (just stick your hand in a hot cast iron skillet to prove the fact). Thermal bridging can be avoided by introducing a layer of non-heat-conducting material into the manufacturing process (like a layer of wood, etc). The military overcomes these design flaws by using 2-tons of house air conditioning to cool 100sq/ft box (or a warehouse blast furnace to heat the same).
Anyway.....
I'm debating adding a layer of insulation onto the walls and ceiling and bringing the new surface out 2". The height loss won't effect anything but losing 4" or habitat width is why I shifted away from this idea in the first place. But sitting in there tonight making note of where everything is bolted together (getting ready to gut it all for paint), I realized that four inches less horizontal space wouldn't really be an issue.
I figure I can use 2x2 as studs and secure it all with rivnuts and the existing taps into the main frame (where the steel wall skids were attached). I need to decide if I want to cover the wire tray or leave it accessible (I figure covering it would look best and I can leave a few small sections accessible so I could always blow a fish line thru if more wire runs became needed).
Then there's the matter of insulation and paneling choices that I can afford. In a perfect world I'd be rich and insulate with something 100% fireproof and then panel with StarBoard (but I'm poor and I can't afford $250 a sheet for ANYTHING).
What I can afford is whatever Styrofoam-based or fiberglass insulation is on sale at Home Depot covered with $25 /sheet PlasTex (which I used in the shower). I kinda hate the looks of the stuff, but it's what I can afford. I favor plastics as the humidity down here eats any of those particle/MDF/glued-together/coated pressboard materials (like Beadboard, etc). I'd prefer something that's already available locally and I've looked in the past and there's really not much of a choice that is 1) cheap, 2) plastic, 3) available locally.
Or just leave things as they are....
But if I'm gonna do it, I need to go get materials tomorrow because if I push this project deadline much further I'll be too old to use the damned thing.
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