UPFINN
Member
- 231
- 4
- 18
- Location
- Ishpeming Michigan
After purchasing a deuce in July and a period of neglect for about a month or so (vacations/camping/travel!), I need to start working on my truck to make it safe for wood hauling this Autumn and ready to store during our brutal winters, then about 100 miles of travel per week to farmers markets in the Spring and Summer, along with a possible 600 mile round trip to Minneapolis.
I measured the tire pressure in the rears today and I am getting anywhere from 10 to 25psi on the sliding gauge on my cheap hand actuated tire inflator. One rear tire does not even read anything on the guage
. Fronts are at around 55psi. I have the standard 9x20 ndts.
I realize these tire pressures are dangerously low. I am concerned about airing the rear tires back up to 50psi due to the potential for the lock ring to blow off. I feel somewhat embarrassed for studying, inspecting, and learning everything about the engine, brake system, drivetrain, etc and ignoring the tires.
I have little knowledge of working with split lock ring tires.
I figured I'd start first by getting a 5ft extension hose for my tire inflator, and a locking air chuck. I see there are two kinds of air chucks. There is a short chuck with a locking lever that goes right on the end of the air hose hose, and a long metal dual end "straight foot" air chuck that is supposed to lock onto the threads on the valve stem, however I see no lever. I would think the chuck with the locking lever would be more secure and reliable, however more awkward to get into the inner duals.
What would be the best air chuck to use? Is it safe for me to inflate the tires from 10-25psi up to over 50, or will I have to completely deflate the tires and bring them to a shop to have the bead and ring re-seated? Will a 5 foot hose be long enough to keep me out of harms way when inflating tires on the truck?
I also plan to remove all the tires to get at the drum brake assembly to check pad wear and adjustment so I can finish my brake system inspection. Will I have to take precautions when removing the lugs and wrestling the tire/rim combination off the truck?
Looking for a bottle jack right now. I know the 8 ton military bottle jacks had a maximum height of 19.5 inches. Most civilian jacks lift only up to 14-18 inches. Don't know if that would be enough. Instead of jackstands I plan to build cribbing. I like the stability of the wider footpring but I am concerned the typical 2x4 cribbing blocks build for cars and civy pickup trucks would not be strong enough.
When I get my tires off, I'd figure I should get newer tires. Having a very hard time finding 9x20 or 11x20ndts in the wilderness of Upper Michigan. I will have to travel at least 300 miles to find tires or have them shipped. I've heard that new 11x20s with an upgraded tread pattern can be bought at the average tire shop. Don't think the price would be pretty as a new Titan 9x20 ndt is $600.
I do not think I can afford super singles, and I imagine they would be a bear to steer without power steering. I did hear singling out the 11x20s work great for improving maneuverability. Would be nice when I have to go into downtown for markets. A smaller truck will not do, as I will need all of the deuce bed space for my stuff![Driver :driver: :driver:](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/driver.gif)
The rear tires on my truck now have about 1 to 3 tenths of an inch of tread left before the wear lines. The fronts have a half inch. However, most of the tires have minor cracking, with one having a small crack on a sidewall. I don't know how many more miles they will last.
So far the deuce has been a blast to drive and work on. Awhile back I hauled about 2000 lbs of insulated freezer panels down a extremely rutted dirt road and it performed very well. The truck is great for the work I need to do and I want to make sure I maintain it and learn to do it safely and efficiently, and thats the reason for all the questions!
Responses will be greatly appreciated! I will try getting out to take pics of my truck and maybe upload some tomorrow.
I measured the tire pressure in the rears today and I am getting anywhere from 10 to 25psi on the sliding gauge on my cheap hand actuated tire inflator. One rear tire does not even read anything on the guage
![Shocked :shock: :shock:](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
I realize these tire pressures are dangerously low. I am concerned about airing the rear tires back up to 50psi due to the potential for the lock ring to blow off. I feel somewhat embarrassed for studying, inspecting, and learning everything about the engine, brake system, drivetrain, etc and ignoring the tires.
I figured I'd start first by getting a 5ft extension hose for my tire inflator, and a locking air chuck. I see there are two kinds of air chucks. There is a short chuck with a locking lever that goes right on the end of the air hose hose, and a long metal dual end "straight foot" air chuck that is supposed to lock onto the threads on the valve stem, however I see no lever. I would think the chuck with the locking lever would be more secure and reliable, however more awkward to get into the inner duals.
What would be the best air chuck to use? Is it safe for me to inflate the tires from 10-25psi up to over 50, or will I have to completely deflate the tires and bring them to a shop to have the bead and ring re-seated? Will a 5 foot hose be long enough to keep me out of harms way when inflating tires on the truck?
I also plan to remove all the tires to get at the drum brake assembly to check pad wear and adjustment so I can finish my brake system inspection. Will I have to take precautions when removing the lugs and wrestling the tire/rim combination off the truck?
Looking for a bottle jack right now. I know the 8 ton military bottle jacks had a maximum height of 19.5 inches. Most civilian jacks lift only up to 14-18 inches. Don't know if that would be enough. Instead of jackstands I plan to build cribbing. I like the stability of the wider footpring but I am concerned the typical 2x4 cribbing blocks build for cars and civy pickup trucks would not be strong enough.
When I get my tires off, I'd figure I should get newer tires. Having a very hard time finding 9x20 or 11x20ndts in the wilderness of Upper Michigan. I will have to travel at least 300 miles to find tires or have them shipped. I've heard that new 11x20s with an upgraded tread pattern can be bought at the average tire shop. Don't think the price would be pretty as a new Titan 9x20 ndt is $600.
I do not think I can afford super singles, and I imagine they would be a bear to steer without power steering. I did hear singling out the 11x20s work great for improving maneuverability. Would be nice when I have to go into downtown for markets. A smaller truck will not do, as I will need all of the deuce bed space for my stuff
![Driver :driver: :driver:](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/driver.gif)
The rear tires on my truck now have about 1 to 3 tenths of an inch of tread left before the wear lines. The fronts have a half inch. However, most of the tires have minor cracking, with one having a small crack on a sidewall. I don't know how many more miles they will last.
So far the deuce has been a blast to drive and work on. Awhile back I hauled about 2000 lbs of insulated freezer panels down a extremely rutted dirt road and it performed very well. The truck is great for the work I need to do and I want to make sure I maintain it and learn to do it safely and efficiently, and thats the reason for all the questions!
Responses will be greatly appreciated! I will try getting out to take pics of my truck and maybe upload some tomorrow.