torque rod bushings

[HN6]

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Along with the weld on the edges of your plate, a 3/4 inch hole drilled in the center and plug welding that - your metal "keepers" should stay in place. Need to have a 5 gallon bucket of water to cool the metal before the rubber is smoked.

Thanks, I only plug welded the center with about 5/8' hole. When I replace the bushings and weld new keepers I will make the plates better and weld some outside edge as well. Hopefully to last a lifetime.

I did not want to quench them in the water as to change the molecular structure and make more brittle but maybe on this application it is ok. typically it is a huge no no welding steel on anything structural and cooling rapidly.

 

[Mullaney]

Thanks, I only plug welded the center with about 5/8' hole. When I replace the bushings and weld new keepers I will make the plates better and weld some outside edge as well. Hopefully to last a lifetime.

I did not want to quench them in the water as to change the molecular structure and make more brittle but maybe on this application it is ok. typically it is a huge no no welding steel on anything structural and cooling rapidly.

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Normally no, quenching isn't a good thing. Only reason I suggested that was that our welder who always did that job for us did it. Once those plates were welded - they "stayed stuck". The truck would get new torque rods at the 7 year rebuild if the rubber had separated. Going from memory the rubber didn't smoke with the 5 gallon water quench.

That particular welder had worked on the Alaska pipeline and later for the railroad.
He seemed to be more experienced than some of the others.

 

[HN6]

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Normally no, quenching isn't a good thing. Only reason I suggested that was that our welder who always did that job for us did it. Once those plates were welded - they "stayed stuck". The truck would get new torque rods at the 7 year rebuild if the rubber had separated. Going from memory the rubber didn't smoke with the 5 gallon water quench.

That particular welder had worked on the Alaska pipeline and later for the railroad.
He seemed to be more experienced than some of the others.

Actual real world experience

.
Normally no, quenching isn't a good thing. Only reason I suggested that was that our welder who always did that job for us did it. Once those plates were welded - they "stayed stuck". The truck would get new torque rods at the 7 year rebuild if the rubber had separated. Going from memory the rubber didn't smoke with the 5 gallon water quench.

That particular welder had worked on the Alaska pipeline and later for the railroad.
He seemed to be more experienced than some of the others.

Perfect! Thanks for the feedback. Greatly appreciated.

 

[Jeepsinker]

I've read/watched quite a few people's techniques on getting the rod joints out. So far, I havent seen anyone use a traditional style fork separator. Do they just get bent all to hell and not work? If turning the nut against some janky stacks of plates works, I don't see why not.

Kind of wondering if I should go through the trouble of machining myself a big screw-style separator. I've got some pretty big diameter steel bar stock that would work.

I'm buying the ones with the integrated keepers and will be doing some of them soon enough.

Can't believe you called my carefully selected plate stacks " janky"

 

[GopherHill]

I think the junky guy is confused
When money is short, you use what is cheap or free. However you have to go at it, you do good work according to me

 

[7bdiver]

I bought a big chisel at harbor freight and milled the center out. Havent tested it yet though. Its just been too dang cold and shitty out to bother. None of my bushings are at risk yet anyway. We'll see how it goes.

I made the same thing out of a big long sds max chisels too, in case I want to try it out with the mini jackhammer.

 

[rustystud]

I bought a big chisel at harbor freight and milled the center out. Havent tested it yet though. Its just been too dang cold and shitty out to bother. None of my bushings are at risk yet anyway. We'll see how it goes.

I made the same thing out of a big long sds max chisels too, in case I want to try it out with the mini jackhammer.

Looking good on that pickle fork, but I would make the taper more. Say a 16 to 20 degree angle. Something that will get under/behind the rod. Last time I had to replace the torque rods, I used steel shims that where about 1.5" wide and 6 inches long and used my 4 Ibs mini maul to hammer them. I like your idea better.

 

[7bdiver]

The fork probably will need to be a wee bit thicker for one or two of them. I hadn't thought of welding on a shim to make it thicker. Will likely do that.