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Torque rods kicking my butt

rtadams89

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3
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Phoenix, AZ
I spent about 4 hours and finally managed to get all the torque rod nuts off. For anyone else doing the job, save yourself some effort and just pull the wheels. I did it with the wheels and 395 tires still on, and it was tight.

Now, I got the upper torque rods off, but the middle bushings stayed in the truck. I’ve tried a 1-3/8 fork, tried an air hammer from the nut side, and tried both with the help of pb blaster. I still can’t get the things out though. Any other tips tricks to remove these buggers?
 

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gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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We usually put a 2x4 against the frame and a splitting wedge against the threads (with the nut on to protect the threads) and whack it with a sledge.
 

rtadams89

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Phoenix, AZ
I’ve seen that method in other torque rod threads, but not sure how to do that for the middle ones. The nut side of the bushing is recessed in a hole...
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
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I have an old axle shaft off a Dana 60 rear. I ground it down to a point to hit into the threaded end. And someone with a sledgehammer while i hold it

Course i always take the spring pack apart on the deuce.

Any 5ft long round stock will work.

Or for future reference. In an emergency. You can use the axle shaft from the rockwell. Just clean up the end of it
Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 
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winfred

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358
10
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port allen la
3' hunk of 1/2" rebar and a 12# sledge provided enough transfer of force to pop my inners but none of mine were really difficult to get loose as a pickle fork made quick work with all but the inners, did mine on the ground with 395s on mraps and unflipped hubs
 

topo

Well-known member
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farmington NM
When replacing lower torque rods on a trailer and welding a chain and binder between the torque rod ends on the axle back the nuts off but leave them on tighten the binder and hit the mount the shock will free them when both are free take the nuts off .
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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My bad! Just back the nut to the start of the threads and whack it directly with your mallot.

I have a piece of 2" round stock to use as an ext if needed.
 

rtadams89

Member
209
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18
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I made progress on the other bushings and now have 2 of the torque rods done. Still can't get those upper bushings out though. Unfortunately, I don't have power near where the truck is, so I can't weld chain onto them. I spend about 15 minutes hammering on them with a 5# hammer and a 1/2 rebar extension and got no where.
 

doghead

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Where were you hitting?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
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Mason, TN
I made progress on the other bushings and now have 2 of the torque rods done. Still can't get those upper bushings out though. Unfortunately, I don't have power near where the truck is, so I can't weld chain onto them. I spend about 15 minutes hammering on them with a 5# hammer and a 1/2 rebar extension and got no where.
soak em down with acetone/atf mix

you really need someone hitting the rebar with a sledgehammer so you can keep pressure on it. By yourself with a 5lb hammer your not generating much force through that rebar.
 

rtadams89

Member
209
3
18
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Yeah, might need to enlist a buddy to help later this week.

Anyone try grinding 6 flats on the things and using an impact wrench to try and spin it free? Or maybe I can drill it with a hand drill and put a eye bolt in.
 
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simp5782

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Yeah, might need to enlist a buddy to help later this week.

Anyone try grinding 6 flats on the things and using an impact wrench to try and spin it free?
I know on a 5 ton you can use a piece of steel and a jack to push em out. sort of like a sideways press. I did some on a 923 awhile back that I couldn't beat out. put the tires back on. 5ft long 1/2" piece of steel that was about 8inches wide up against the tires . Put my air/hydraulic jack on it between the steel and the inserts and let the height adjustment all the way out on the peg that unscrews Had Kept the jack there and pressure on the steel till it hit where I had the nut still on the torque rod insert so it wouldn't mushroom the head of it. It didn't take much and it popped it loose. Should work on a deuce especially if you put one tire back on like it would be the outside dual with no inside tire on.
 
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cattlerepairman

Well-known member
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I know on a 5 ton you can use a piece of steel and a jack to push em out. sort of like a sideways press. I did some on a 923 awhile back that I couldn't beat out. put the tires back on. 5ft long 1/2" piece of steel that was about 8inches wide up against the tires . Put my air/hydraulic jack on it between the steel and the inserts and let the height adjustment all the way out on the peg that unscrews Had Kept the jack there and pressure on the steel till it hit where I had the nut still on the torque rod insert so it wouldn't mushroom the head of it. It didn't take much and it popped it loose. Should work on a deuce especially if you put one tire back on like it would be the outside dual with no inside tire on.
That is clever!
 

topo

Well-known member
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farmington NM
Thinking out loud any way to get a u bolt around one of them to pull from or pry with some help .Maybe use a angle grinder and cut a grove to get a pry bar in .
 

rflegal

Member
128
11
18
Location
New Mexico
OK - so this thread inspired me to go back and take a shot at mine this weekend. BTW we were in the 50's and sunny here in FARMINGTON NM for New Years!
My dogbones are on a '56 M36 gasser and I don't think they've ever been serviced or moved. (one was wired with bailing wire when I got it, which inspired the replacements.)
I have tried all the tricks seen here and followed all the comments with great interest. Those joints have been soaking for a year plus with PB Blaster. I have beat on 'em, heated them, pried, barred, screamed and prayed - everything - nothin', not one would move.
For Christmas I got a 4-ton hydraulic unit from good ole Disposable Freight. Bought the extra ram set AND the pancake ram. That was it! I tried the spreader-thing but it wasn't goin', but that little pancake unit fit in with a spacer and popped them right off with only a tap from the 4#.
Wow. Right tool for the job. Next is to use the extensions to span spring-to-spring and pop the upper ones by the pivot. The only ones that are gonna be tricky are the uppers above the spring pack on the driver's side. But I have an idea...
BTW - Topo, you're here in FARMINGTON? I've been away from the board for too long. Yell if you wanna chat or use the press.
 

rtadams89

Member
209
3
18
Location
Phoenix, AZ
For Christmas I got a 4-ton hydraulic unit from good ole Disposable Freight. Bought the extra ram set AND the pancake ram. That was it! I tried the spreader-thing but it wasn't goin', but that little pancake unit fit in with a spacer and popped them right off with only a tap from the 4#.
I picked one up as well, then returned it as I didn't see any way to use it on the ones that are giving me trouble (all the ones with the threaded ends pointing out from the truck). If you figure out how to get the upper ones out, please let me know, I'm still stuck on those. I welded a 1" nut closed on one end and am going to thread that onto the upper bushings tomorrow so I can use an impact wrench to try and vibrate/spin them loose. Also dug out my 10# hammer and will attempt to hammer on them with a 1/2" rebar and a buddy.
 
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