• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

towing info for the bigger trucks

krall

New member
314
0
0
Location
shippensburg PA
Ok I am getting a big tow bar from DOGHEAD and would like someone to school me on that thing, I am not farmilular with the large truck dead towning, I know I had read that some have spun out when towing a 915 with a 915, I am looking at getting a junk 5 ton or the likes and towing it back with the 915, ..... now I know practice makes perfect but I would like to get some sort of idea of what I need to pay attention to and what to do to avoid the possible spin out,

the 915 had the air supply in the front of the vehicle, is that for towing, to supply air to the brake system?

I take it you have to run your own lights to the back so is there an addapter to make it work with the normal plug or do you have to create your own system?

please school me and if anyone has some tm's that are helpfull thats great but I am more of a hands on guy would just like to hear your comments ( bad happenings while towing) to kinda learn what can happen and please throw in some good tips if you would.

many thanks
GOD BLESS
krall
 

3dAngus

Well-known member
4,719
101
63
Location
Perry, Ga.
Krall,

I'm sure you're going to get some great reply's on this one, so for my end of it. please let me start with a disclaimer. This has nothing to do with your specific application.
I'm attaching a document I like to reference on towing military vehicles that are MRAP, or the newer Mine Resistant Ambush Protected Vehicles in use today.
This document is more for my application in the newer square towbars which are mostly all 1.5" pins now due to the higher weight. I'm an information junkie and I can't get enough info sometimes, so perhaps you might get a more rounded idea of how some do it elsewhere, especially in the military, and why and how. Good luck!
 

Attachments

krall

New member
314
0
0
Location
shippensburg PA
no that is very helpful, I had heard of caging brakes but don't fully grasp that concept yet, my buddie is going to show me there so I had atleast hear of it but I am new and like you would like to get as much info in my brain going now ahead of time so I feel confident when I actually do it.[thumbzup]

thinking about making some sort of adapter to fit the 1" pins that a deuce would need, ?? do able? anyone do this already and have a pic?
 
Last edited:

3dAngus

Well-known member
4,719
101
63
Location
Perry, Ga.
You and I are in the same mode. I'm planning on getting more 1" clevices, cutting them in half leaving the bulk of the mass with the clevice side, and doing the same with my 1.5" twin clevice, where I will cut off two of the tow eyes.

Then, and this is something only a fully trained welder should do rather than a novice, I'm going to measure both components for the best angle or location for welding, using a deuce at Robins AFB and a waterless marker. My towbars are 83K pound towing capacity, and the deuce and/or five ton doesn't come anywhere near there, but the welds have to be the best anyway due to any possibility of jacknifing and/or excessive jerk. Here is a pic of the twin 1.5" clevice to be cut. You already know what the 1" looks like for the deuce.

Also to note, the deuce has one of the smallest of all footprints to get a clevice on it. Shaving down my clevices and using a shim reducing the 1.5" pinhole to a 1" pinhole and pin is no longer an option. I've already been through that.

The military adapters that are already out there reducing the 1.5" foot to 1" for these towbars are extremly difficult to find. I've searched every resource and have not been able to find the reclusive animals yet. You can see a picture of one in the file I sent you earlier. Good luck, and when you're done, SEND PICTURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Attachments

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
12,195
319
0
Location
gainesville, ga.
3D if you went, you can come by, and borrow mine (1 1/2" x 1") for a pattern.

I would not cut an adaptor then reweld, it is cast, I would make one out of 3 peices of steel then weld
 
Last edited:

3dAngus

Well-known member
4,719
101
63
Location
Perry, Ga.
3D if you went, you can come by, and borrow mine (1 1/2" x 1") for a pattern.
Oh heck yeah! That's a very generous offer Ron.

Hope you don't have two, cause I'm going to have to figure out what you want even more. <grin>

I'm going to PM you now.
 

3dAngus

Well-known member
4,719
101
63
Location
Perry, Ga.
Ron said;

I would not cut an adaptor then reweld, it is cast, I would make one out of 3 pieces of steel then weld
*******************************

Oh boy! So I'm going to do my regular thing and let the world know how ignorant I am.

So if it is cast, what is the problems with welding. I am borrowing this idea from several others who said they were going to do something like this, but not quite the same thing, yet using at least a part of one adapter or clevice. I did not realize there might be a problem. Can you elaborate some on the cast/welding issues?
 

krall

New member
314
0
0
Location
shippensburg PA
ok I am totally off the ball on this one, I was sort of thinking of not making a new clevis, I was more thinking of making a removable bushing to put in the 1.5" just to slim it down and then put the actuall 1" pin in, still using the same 1.5" cleat, is that not a doable route? I see what others are saying it would be really hard to weld or custom make something that needs to hold LOTS of weight.
 

wreckerman893

Possum Connoisseur
15,623
2,027
113
Location
Akenback acres near Gadsden, AL
I had heard of caging brakes but don't fully grasp that concept yet,
Caging the brakes is basically rendering them inoperable so that you can tow the vehicle.

There are caging bolts on each brake chamber on each axle. You insert them into the chamber and turn them to back off the brakes shoes manually verses using the trucks air system to release them.

If you cage the brakes you can't use the front gladhands to operate the towed vehicles brakes.

An M-915 should flat tow another M-915 bobtail without having to use the brakes on the towed truck.....unless you are going the be in the mountains. Usually you would need the brakes if you were towing a truck with a trailer (loaded or unloaded) to keep from pushing the towing vehicle.

Be aware that your insurance may not cover you if you are towing another vehicle, especially with a tow bar.

When I had my wrecker I had a Progressive farm policy.....my agent told me that I could not tow ANYTHING on a public road.....even my own personal stuff.....you have to have special tow insurance. That is why it cost big bucks to have a large vehicle towed.....they are paying out the azz for commercial tow insurance.
 

krall

New member
314
0
0
Location
shippensburg PA
no I am glad to get it, I just want to put some use in it since it is going to work the H377 out of me, figure Ill try to return the favor,[thumbzup]
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
749
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
M1075, we used an 818 to tow my wrecker when the crankshaft snapped. I liked that we could use the johnny bar to activate the brakes and slow everything down. Do other trucks have those stock? I'd probably look for an 818 again if I needed a tow.
 

M1075

Active member
3,589
6
38
Location
Oklahoma City
M1075, we used an 818 to tow my wrecker when the crankshaft snapped. I liked that we could use the johnny bar to activate the brakes and slow everything down. Do other trucks have those stock? I'd probably look for an 818 again if I needed a tow.
The brake set-up on a tractor is certainly advantageous (assuming towed truck has front gladhands and operable braking system) but I still prefer a wrecker for flat towing. Nothing like having a little weight in the rear to keep the tires planted! Maybe an M819 would be the best of both worlds.
 
Top