mhb285
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Am I correct to say that 15W-40 is whats used in the M35a2's tranny? I'm going to replace all the fluids on my truck soon... 
thanks Mike Bogner
thanks Mike Bogner
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tranny lube?
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Westech
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80/90 gear lube. make sure its ok to use with brass parts. look for the "meets millitary specs.
SixBuy
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GL-1 was originally spec'ed but is hard to come by. GL-5 is common and what I use. Like Westech said, look for the Mil Spec designation. Stick with a name brand (I like Texaco) and get it from a commercial lubricants warehouse and it runs about $35/5 gal bucket. buy one of the metal bucket pumps at a truck parts house -money well spent. Count on almost two buckets to replace all gear oil. Messy, stinky stuff! Have fun!
SixBuy
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Oh, and if you haven't already, download the Lubrication Order from the Technical Manuals section.
Very Helpful.
Very Helpful.
bcowanwheels
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DONT GO WITH ANTIQUE LUBE ! PUT SYNTHETIC STRAIGHT 50 WEIGHT TRANS OIL IN IT LIKE THE MODERN SEMI TRUCKS USE. IT WILL RUN COOLER, SHIFT EASYER AND LAST FOREVER. ROADRANGER TRANSMISSION OIL 50 WGHT. ALL HEAVY TRUCK DEALER PARTS DEPTS. HAVE IT. ABOUT 30.00 BUCKS A GALLON. ALSO 85/140 SYNTHETIC ROADRANGER OIL IN DIFFS. GO WITH A FULL SYN. OIL SETUP AND PICKUP MORE POWER, BETTER FUEL ECONOMY, LOWER HEAT AND LASTS ALOT LONGER. BOB
mhb285
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WOW,,,Caps on everything & a sales pitch..
No thanks. I'll use the recommended GL1
I did me 3 axels this am... Stuff stinks
Plan on doing the tranny and transfer case on Sunday..
No thanks. I'll use the recommended GL1
I did me 3 axels this am... Stuff stinks
Plan on doing the tranny and transfer case on Sunday..
Westech
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he is right I called Ams oil and that what they said to use
CGarbee
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Not sure what the capacities are off hand, but I tend to buy several five gallon buckets of gear oil every time I visit my local AgriSupply just because I work from one end of the yard to the other (do a M35, move onto the M37, then the M38...).
The thing to look for in a GL5 to insure that it is compatable with the yellow metal bearings is to see that it also has the MT1 rating. I use Warren GL1 from AgriSupply in my older stuff since it is only $17 for a five gallon bucket. I use Castrol Agri Gearmax GL5/MT1 in my newer stuff but it is around $35 for five gallons...
FWIW: I use Castrol Agrimax 15w40 in my diesels since it is $1 less a gallon than Rotella, meets the same slew of manufactures' and other specifications, and has an additive package designed for a period of hard use followed by an extended period of no use (sorta how I treat my military vehicles...).
The thing to look for in a GL5 to insure that it is compatable with the yellow metal bearings is to see that it also has the MT1 rating. I use Warren GL1 from AgriSupply in my older stuff since it is only $17 for a five gallon bucket. I use Castrol Agri Gearmax GL5/MT1 in my newer stuff but it is around $35 for five gallons...
FWIW: I use Castrol Agrimax 15w40 in my diesels since it is $1 less a gallon than Rotella, meets the same slew of manufactures' and other specifications, and has an additive package designed for a period of hard use followed by an extended period of no use (sorta how I treat my military vehicles...).
mhb285
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OK, I want to drain the Transmission & Transfer case. But I wanted to find the filler holes first.
Where are they?
I couldent find them. Luckly I didn't drain them first.
Any sugestions.
Thanks
Mike Bogner
Where are they?
I couldent find them. Luckly I didn't drain them first.
Any sugestions.
Thanks
Mike Bogner
jld66
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Your best and wisest bet is to download the Lube Order (LO) from the Technical Section of this board and print it out to keep handy while you do your PMCS.
I just spent most of Sunday afternoon under my M35 A2 hitting all of the grease fittings and topping off all of the gear cases for the trip to Gilbert later this week.
The LO is a wealth of info when it is time to do your services.
I just spent most of Sunday afternoon under my M35 A2 hitting all of the grease fittings and topping off all of the gear cases for the trip to Gilbert later this week.
The LO is a wealth of info when it is time to do your services.
jld66
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mhb285
Apologies, the Lube Order for the Deuce was not in the tech section when I posted the above reply. I have just uploaded it and as soon as a moderator approves it will be available for all.
Apologies, the Lube Order for the Deuce was not in the tech section when I posted the above reply. I have just uploaded it and as soon as a moderator approves it will be available for all.
mhb285
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Sorry, But I've got this TM. It does not show where the filler holes are. Unless I'm missing it.
Mike
Mike
jld66
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Yes, the LO does not clearly show where the fill plugs are. The best place to add lube is the check plugs. On the tranny it is on the back, a few inches up from the bottom. It is flat with a 1/2" recess, use a 1/2" drive ratchet with no socket to remove and replace them. I use a large plunger type pump to fill. Add lube to within 1/2" of the check plug opening and it will be correct. The plug for the transfer case is a similar plug on the curbside of the case. The plugs for the pumpkins are the same and are about in the center of the rear of each pumpkin. All of the gear cases have drain plugs in the bottom. You should only need to replace the lube if you are doing maintenance or if it becomese contaminated.
mhb285
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Well, I got the tranny & transfer case this am.... Dirty and stinks.. The 3 axels were pretty clean. Tomorrow I'll get the steering gear box. That everything as I had the oil and filters done last year.
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snth. gear oil
This is what happened to a friend of mine: he got his multifuel deuce in a public auction and it came out the 3053A had a broken 5th od. gear. After replacing the damaged parts he decided to switch to 75W-90 full synthetic GO (Castrol) being very confident that this would be the perfect choice for a modern long-life lubricant to have his gear box run cooler, quieter and well protected against any “abuse”. For the following 2000 miles (work and play) he’d never noticed any bad symptoms or problems, until one day after just a short hwy trip, in 5th OD , loaded, he almost fried his transmission! When it happened, he said it felt like someone invisible had stepped on the brakes and a suspicious smoke and burned smell was coming out from the shifter boot. After disassembly and inspection it appeared that 2nd gear had been severely seizing on the mainshaft, almost welded together! This transmission wasn’t new anyways, so he replaced the complete box with a “like new” takeout, put in the same (long-life?) oil he had drained from the first one (it looked very clean) and went for the next load. After only 20 miles the second tranny gave up it’s ghost, exactly the same failure! (poor lubrication…!?) After disassembly everything looked new except for the blue colored mainshaft where 2nd gear turns. So he took both gear and shaft to a machine shop where they just polished the affected areas. Wear tolerance was still acceptable so everything went back in. This time he went back to the good old SAE 90 gear oil, (who knows, may be…?)
To make it short: from that day on (almost 4 weeks ago) the truck has been running fine like nothing ever happened!
Could somebody please explain? Anyone else with a similar experience?
Since lately I was using synt. oil too (LM 75W-90), I got really concerned. So I consulted the technicians at Liqui Moly in Germany. Two weeks later the answer came: We do NOT recommend using our synthetic gear oils in early transmissions! (for reasons that don’t have anything to do with what happened!) Needless to say I drained mine and refilled with 85W-90 (Chevron), better sooner than to late…
Gerhard
Let me warn you all!!! Better DO NOT USE synthetic gear oil in the deuce tranny, unless you want to learn fast, the hard way!bcowanwheels said:
This is what happened to a friend of mine: he got his multifuel deuce in a public auction and it came out the 3053A had a broken 5th od. gear. After replacing the damaged parts he decided to switch to 75W-90 full synthetic GO (Castrol) being very confident that this would be the perfect choice for a modern long-life lubricant to have his gear box run cooler, quieter and well protected against any “abuse”. For the following 2000 miles (work and play) he’d never noticed any bad symptoms or problems, until one day after just a short hwy trip, in 5th OD , loaded, he almost fried his transmission! When it happened, he said it felt like someone invisible had stepped on the brakes and a suspicious smoke and burned smell was coming out from the shifter boot. After disassembly and inspection it appeared that 2nd gear had been severely seizing on the mainshaft, almost welded together! This transmission wasn’t new anyways, so he replaced the complete box with a “like new” takeout, put in the same (long-life?) oil he had drained from the first one (it looked very clean) and went for the next load. After only 20 miles the second tranny gave up it’s ghost, exactly the same failure! (poor lubrication…!?) After disassembly everything looked new except for the blue colored mainshaft where 2nd gear turns. So he took both gear and shaft to a machine shop where they just polished the affected areas. Wear tolerance was still acceptable so everything went back in. This time he went back to the good old SAE 90 gear oil, (who knows, may be…?)
To make it short: from that day on (almost 4 weeks ago) the truck has been running fine like nothing ever happened!
Could somebody please explain? Anyone else with a similar experience?
Since lately I was using synt. oil too (LM 75W-90), I got really concerned. So I consulted the technicians at Liqui Moly in Germany. Two weeks later the answer came: We do NOT recommend using our synthetic gear oils in early transmissions! (for reasons that don’t have anything to do with what happened!) Needless to say I drained mine and refilled with 85W-90 (Chevron), better sooner than to late…
Gerhard
JRBAMATEX
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I have used Lucus Heavy Duty synthetic in my diffs and am planning on using in my T-Case. Based on what I am seeing above maybe this is not a good idea. Anyone have any feedback on Lucas products?
JRBAMATEX
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Correction, The Lucas I am using is not synthetic. It is petroleum based and is recommended for MV's. It is the Lucus oil stabilizer. I am running it 50/50 with 80W-90 gear oil. So it should be fine.
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Lucas is good stuff but IMHO overkill. The synthetics are overkill IMHO. These trucks ran for decades on GL-1. Why one would put $30 a gallon suff in where the $3.75 a gallon stuff has sufficed all these decades, escapes me. Might get better MPG from it I guess. If you must have synthetics, plan on additional leakage as well, the stuff is so slippery it won't stay in the gear box. I need to move to the country, we got nothing like AgriSupply. Heck the nearest Tractor Supply is over an hour up the highway. I've had spotty but adequate luck finding the GL-1 Supertech brand at Walmart. It too is made by Warren. Lately they've not had it, glad I bought 25 gallons last time!
FSBruva
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wyattearp-
Table 1-2 in TM 9-2320-361-20 says:
4.25 qts in the tranny, no PTO
5.25 qts in the tranny, with PTO
7 qts in the transfercase (with or without PTO)
1 qt in the clutch end of the front winch
1.5 qt in the the worm gear end of the front winch
6 qts in any differential
And all kinds of other info!!
Matt
Table 1-2 in TM 9-2320-361-20 says:
4.25 qts in the tranny, no PTO
5.25 qts in the tranny, with PTO
7 qts in the transfercase (with or without PTO)
1 qt in the clutch end of the front winch
1.5 qt in the the worm gear end of the front winch
6 qts in any differential
And all kinds of other info!!
Matt