Trying to keep my CUCV alive (fuel tank help)

[rsl0311usmc]

So I got another one for you all. Yesterday when I was cleaning some salt off my k1500 while parked next to my cucv I smelled diesel fuel. So I began checking over the good ol cucv only to find a nice steady drip from the bottom of the fuel tank. Now you all have been extremely helpful in me keeping this truck on the road so I need some more help with things. I am wondering if this 20 gallon tank will fit and if I should just put a new sending unit in it while I am at it? I am pretty sure everything that's on it now is original (40 years old) and that the tank if I am guessing is a 20 gallon tank. By the way I got the master cylinder and hydroboost all done a few weeks ago and I appreciate everyone's help with that. I feel like I own an old jeep that I keep putting money into lol. I am not complaining the truck is 40 years old and a blast to drive but I sure am finding all the issues from the previous owner letting it sit for so long.

 

[rsl0311usmc]

Also here is pictures of the sending unit I found. Hopefully this is the correct one. It says drivers side and I think ours is three ports?

 

[WWRD99]

Should fit fine. You might need new straps. If the gage works I'd get a new sock for the pickup at the least. The tank will come with a new seal. Get a few feet of new fuel line.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[rsl0311usmc]

Should fit fine. You might need new straps. If the gage works I'd get a new sock for the pickup at the least. The tank will come with a new seal. Get a few feet of new fuel line.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

OK I appreciate it and the sending unit looks good to you? I see that the new one comes with the sock. I appreciate the heads up on the straps I didn't think of that. But mine are not rusted or anything

 

[rsl0311usmc]

I forgot to add the guage seems to work since I fixed it. It just might not be accurate as it stays on full for forever

 

[Barrman]

The fuel gauge staying on full a long time is a product of the way GM made the system back then. 3/4 tank is normally around actually 1/2 tank or less fuel in the tank.

I forget which way GM did theirs, but Ford did it the opposite way and their gauges at the time would drop to around 1/4 tank indicated real fast and live above empty for what seemed like forever.

 

[rsl0311usmc]

The fuel gauge staying on full a long time is a product of the way GM made the system back then. 3/4 tank is normally around actually 1/2 tank or less fuel in the tank.

I forget which way GM did theirs, but Ford did it the opposite way and their gauges at the time would drop to around 1/4 tank indicated real fast and live above empty for what seemed like forever.

Do you know if it matters on the sending unit if we have 3 or 4 outlets? Sorry if that's a stupid question and I need to check mine later before ordering the sending unit

 

[WWRD99]

Not at all. The 4th outlet is for a diesel outlet that isn't for the engine like a heater. Not needed unless you want that. I've had to replace all the straps on the tanks I've done so it's nice to hear you won't have to! My one truck shows full until it hits 10 gallons then goes down from there. When it hits E it is absolutely empty!

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[rsl0311usmc]

Not at all. The 4th outlet is for a diesel outlet that isn't for the engine like a heater. Not needed unless you want that. I've had to replace all the straps on the tanks I've done so it's nice to hear you won't have to! My one truck shows full until it hits 10 gallons then goes down from there. When it hits E it is absolutely empty!

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I kinda feel like that's how this truck is with the guage. When it says half I can get maybe 12 gallons in it or so but it definitely drops fast once past full. I will check mine I don't remember seeing 4 outlets and no I just want it all back together and not leaking at this point. I usually daily that truck and don't drive my aev ram 3500, ram 2500 2nd gen swap g56, or even my k1500 5 speed manual 350 lol. The cucv for some reason is probably my all around favorite and I hate when she is down for any amount of time.

 

[rsl0311usmc]

Not at all. The 4th outlet is for a diesel outlet that isn't for the engine like a heater. Not needed unless you want that. I've had to replace all the straps on the tanks I've done so it's nice to hear you won't have to! My one truck shows full until it hits 10 gallons then goes down from there. When it hits E it is absolutely empty!

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

OK so I looked at my sending unit and I only see two lines so now I am confused as to what the third does? I think I would use the two outside ones as the incoming and return but what do I do with the middle or did I order the wrong sending unit? Here is the best picture I could get.

 

[WWRD99]

The third is for a civi that has a charcoal canister. 2 is all you really need. Just cap it off. That one's been changed at some point. Not a big deal at all. I use both lines that go all the way into the tank...the third one might come with a roll over valve in it or it's short...I cap that one. I like to keep the return line in the fuel.

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[antennaclimber]

I have 3 lines on my fuel tank sending unit. This is how they came from the factory on 2 of my trucks.
One is the supply line to the IP
2nd is the return line from the engine
3rd is capped off and is not used.

 

[87cr250r]

Depending on the location and extent of the damage, I would also consider an epoxy patch. Cut out the rusty area. If it's on a flat area I would use preformed flat sheets of Garolite G-10 and 3M DP100NS adhesive. Ok a curved surface I would lay up some fiberglass biaxial tape with West System 105 resin. Clean everything to bright shiny metal before bonding. Give yourself lots of surface area for bonding. You will still need to remove the tank as you'll likely need to invert it so that diesel doesn't leak on to your cleaned surfaces before bonding.

 

[rsl0311usmc]

I have 3 lines on my fuel tank sending unit. This is how they came from the factory on 2 of my trucks.
One is the supply line to the IP
2nd is the return line from the engine
3rd is capped off and is not used.

OK that third one that's capped off is that the middle one it looks like? I also found this one at autozone I may order it has the two. Do you think it's easier to just get that one?

 

[antennaclimber]

The 2 hose version will work for your needs. 1 for supply and the other for return.

This is one that I use:
3 outlet sending unit

I add a 2nd tank to the right side of the truck and use the 3rd outlet for transferring fuel from the right side to the left side tank.
The return line remains stock going to the left side tank.

 

[Jbulach]

I love bonding with epoxies but, I would not bother investing the time and material’$ into patching a $100 fuel tank, unless it was an emergency.

 

[WWRD99]

The 2 hose version will work for your needs. 1 for supply and the other for return.

This is one that I use:
3 outlet sending unit

I add a 2nd tank to the right side of the truck and use the 3rd outlet for transferring fuel from the right side to the left side tank.
The return line remains stock going to the left side tank.

I did that to one of mine as well. A small transfer pump fills up the passenger side pretty quick. I popped the roll over valve off the passenger side since I didn't want that blocking fuel if it ever got stuck.

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[rsl0311usmc]

Yeah mine is leaking pretty bad and a new one has a lifetime warranty for a great price. I really appreciate everyone's help. I got the spectra ordered and it should be here at the end of the month. I also got two new straps and the tank. I figured it's all pretty old and the truck sat for 8 years I might as well replace things for the long haul. When I tackle this job I will be on here posting if I have any issues. I may just post pictures to help others also. Thanks again everyone for the help and quick responses

 

[WWRD99]

Yeah mine is leaking pretty bad and a new one has a lifetime warranty for a great price. I really appreciate everyone's help. I got the spectra ordered and it should be here at the end of the month. I also got two new straps and the tank. I figured it's all pretty old and the truck sat for 8 years I might as well replace things for the long haul. When I tackle this job I will be on here posting if I have any issues. I may just post pictures to help others also. Thanks again everyone for the help and quick responses

I'm fortunate as my local advance stocks the tank...with the discounts it is right at 80$. It's not a hard job since it's empty. One thing I suggest when you do go to bolt the mount brackets on is leave them loose so you can get the frame bolt holes to line up the tighten the tank staps down for good.

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[rsl0311usmc]

I'm fortunate as my local advance stocks the tank...with the discounts it is right at 80$. It's not a hard job since it's empty. One thing I suggest when you do go to bolt the mount brackets on is leave them loose so you can get the frame bolt holes to line up the tighten the tank staps down for good.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

OK I think I know were your saying. I am a visual learner only lol. When I get into it if I have any issues I will tag you in the post if that's ok? It does seem really straight forward though when looking at it.