turn up the fuel....

[Westech]

found it!! now I need to fix the main air line that whent poow! It was super loud :freaked: but mine is just the adj nuts no slot so im turning the nuts and not the stud ( new pump should be here tomorrow so if I bust it no big deal)

 

[ken]

The cover you need to remove is round. a 7/16 whench fits it. If you look at pic#1 westech posted it's just to the right of the fuel line comming into the hyd head. This round piece is silver and about 5/8 inch long. It's mounted on the VDC.

 

[bigkaiser]

ken,

wrong place, westech has the correct adjusting point. What you are talking about is the servo pressure valve sleeve....check TM9-2910-226-34 section(3-109)

 

[ken]

I know, And you way works also. Bret at boyce equipment showed me how to do this a few years ago. I've used this method on my truck and all of my fire dept trucks. with great results. espically for people who aren't experenced with IP's. Using the TM's way works also but is much more complacated.

 

[Westech]

Ok look at the pic that shows the stud. To the far left there is a 12 point nut looking thing. just to the left of the lower most nut/stud that holds down the fuel line housing. What is that? And why does fuel squart out if I crank up the fuel too much? is it some sort of safty valve? O yeah and a pyro that is after the turbo, 800 is the hotest you want to go. TRUST ME ON THIS!! :banghead:

 

[ken]

If you back off of the fuel rate does it stop leaking? Have you removed it? How did your truck run after you increased the rate?

 

[Westech]

it stopped leaking after I turned it down. ( I think) it runs great , little more power not like night and day but it does move a little faster. O yeah there was someone that wanted to know how to get more smoke from the 6x6. one qt of ATF in the tank works well!

 

[rdixiemiller]

018446 is the PDF# for the fuel injection pump TM if you want to find it on the govt. tech site. It is 7.67 megs, not bad if you have high speed internet. Slow speed, that is a different thing entirely. I have included it in the latest deuce CD manual. There were quite a few different pumps used over the years. This manual will help id them, as well as repair them.
How did you determine 800 degrees after the turbo? Slag something down?

 

[Westech]

the smell of cooking things

 

[rdixiemiller]

Ahh...
The smell of toasted engine parts. Medium rare? Or did you get all the way to well done?

 

[Westech]

lol it still runs but it burnt all of the 1100 dg paint off the pipe and cooked the oil. I did turn it down but now at WOT it sperts fuel out by where the lines come out of the pump and feed the injectors. I thought it was coming out where that 12 point nut is on the side but its coming from up top. Any ideas?? :banghead:

 

[Westech]

here is the TM on the fuel pumps. http://www.tpub.com/content/fuelpumps/TM-9-2910-226-34/

 

[Lee Alessi]

so this http://www.tpub.com/content/fuelpumps/TM-9-2910-226-34/css/TM-9-2910-226-34_152.htm is the general consensus for how to do it? figure 3-174

what is the stop plate adjustment (main fuel)????

and high speed idle?

 

[spicergear]

Yeah Lee. I looked at my multifuel today. That's it. Give'er half a turn and see if it smokes!! Heh,heh... :devil:

 

[Westech]

but not too much!! that smell, the smell of ....... Victory !!!! and burning motor oil ( o yeah and you might have to turn the idle down just a tad if you bump the fuel. I just left mine alone because it broken anyway lol )

 

[M543A2]

We did a modification that helps keep pyro temp within limits without having to watch it all the time while towing a load down the road. We replaced the normal pull to shut oiff cable with a pull cable that has an adjustment knob and push button in the middle. You push the button to slide the cable in or out like the normal military cable, but you can set it at any location by releasing the center button. You can then make very fine adjustments by turning the knob that surrounds the button either direction. We use it to limit our power output. Since the shutoff cable controls the travel of the rack in the pump, by setting it carefully with the accelerator down using the fine adjustment knob we can set the boost/pyro maximum we want by controlling pump maximum rack travel. With it set, we can cruise along, floor it on hills, and not worry that we have to watch the gages. If we want power for a larger hill, or in town, we simply depress the center knob and push the cable all the way in for maximum power.

 

[M543A2]

I am not sure I can agree with the 465's having weak, soft cranks. I have found them to be very hard and durable. The White motors are used in farm tractors, and I know of turned up tractors that have run for years with them. I have taken cranks out of used engines, and found them to still be in spec. We had a motor that had the rubber in the vibration damper messed up, causing the crank to develop harmonics and get the textbook example break through the cheek area between a main and rod bearing. The truck was driven over 300 miles this way, with no further damage happening. We checked out the motor, and we can take out the broken crank and replace it with another crank, new bearings, and go. The broken ends stayed butted together under power and did no damage to anything else. The only way we caught it was a rapid fluctuation on the oil gage and noticing the motor noise changed slightly with the clutch down. (quieter)

 

[spicergear]

One of the fellers at Memphis Equipment, PA. told me that the R6602's (gas 5 ton) had soft cranks and that people would regularly "unwind" them decelerating/engine braking. I asked him how many times he's actually seen this and he said they had ONE come in with a bad bearing after a big hill and they thought the crank was twisted.

-I don't think some people realize what lugging a motor is actually doing. Oil pressure is built by RPM to the pump. More RPM, more oil pressure, that's just a directly proportionate mechanical constant. More RPM, less bearing load as everything is whizzing around now AND has higher oil pressure. Lugging is usually way too low of rpm (or too high a gear for the speed) with a load or hill and trying to make the engine power out of this situation by putting the pedal to the floor. What this does is puts much more cylinder pressure transmitted down into the bearing and it just flat wrings the only several thousandth's thick oil film out of the bearing and then you get bearing to crank contact. Yeah, bearings are supposed to be soft and absorb stuff, but not pressures that are generated in a lugging condition...they'll just rip themselves and the crank to shreds, Oh...and probably resize the big end of the rod too.

 

[painkiller]

i have one question i did exactly what ken said when i was turning up the fuel with the allen wrench and the lock nut and all that stuff but i had the screw about 5 or 6 full turns out and some fuel was leaking and i didnt get any black smoke or more inportantly any more power thankfully i made a mark on the screw and turned it back to where it was and locked the nut down on it and the leak stopped but i still want more power i just dont know if im screwing anything up ya know

 

[cranetruck]

When was the last time you changed your fuel filters?