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turn up the fuel....

doghead

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Most gauges(boost and Pyro) only require power for the light that illuminates them. Look at the specifications for the gauges you are considering using. If you do a search for Isspro, boost gauge, Pyrometer, gauge mounts, You will find it has been covered pretty well here before.
 
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mudguppy

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I disagree w/ doghead on that most guages I have seen and installed required 12V power to run them and not just for illumination - all of my ISSPRO and Diprocol guages are this way.

In other threads the ISSPRO Turbocator (combo guage: boost and egt) is mentioned and seems like a real good setup. The part number is R609-10 for a 10' tubing and leadwire kit. Combine that w/ the R7603 mounting cup and you should be good to go. Well, that's the combo used by a couple others w/ real good results.

This guage does only need power for illumination, so a simple bulb swap for a 24V bulb is all that's needed. This is the route I'm taking if the worthless local diesel shop will track my order... I should have had this done last weekend!! :doh:
 

DuecesWild

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Now is there just one screw to turn. the Fuel screw. Or is it like on my 1st Gen Cummins where you have the smoke screw, Fuel "Full Power" Screw, AFC Starwheel, Fuel Pin etc. Is there any of that on the Deuce?
 

mudguppy

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far as i can tell (thru some fruitless searching on this site thru threads that say they won't answer the question because it's already been answered) there is just the fuel plate stop: 2 half inch nuts on a threaded rod. loosen the outer [locking] nut, then tighten the inner nut - this pulls the rod outward which pulls the fuel stop back, thus increasing fuel.

there really aren't good instructions as to how far you should turn the nut in. some do a number of flats, some do as much as 4 or more full turns. regardless, make sure to keep the rod from turning as you adjust the inner nut; don't want to break stuff off inside the pump.

but, no, there isn't anything else regulating fuel like an afc or anything. there is a droop screw, but there seems to be even less info on that...
 

M35Brown

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As shown in the illustration provided by Mudguppy,
Remove the two bolts (7/16 socket) with the safety wire seal, lift off the gold anodized plate, and you will see the threaded rod with the two jam nuts (1/2 thin wrench) Brake the outer nut loose, and tighten the inner nut (clockwise as viewed from the front looking back) It will take around 1 turn, (or 6 flats) and maybe more to get Black Smoke.
The picture is taken from above the pump, Left of picture is the front of the truck.
 

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fireman9

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It took 1 1/2 turns on mine, but I had little to no smoke under a heavy load before. 1 1/2 and it seems to make nice fluffy light gray to kinda black smoke under load and none on cruse. For now it's way better than before, but no ware near the dark black clouds of my maxidyne 285
 

ODdave

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Wtf......

so what do you do when you read this complete forum, belive you understand what to do to turn up the fuel, bundle up (because it is cold and snowing here) get all the tools rounded up, do what the pic's show, AND................... the screw breaks?............lol
 

Floridianson

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so what do you do when you read this complete forum, belive you understand what to do to turn up the fuel, bundle up (because it is cold and snowing here) get all the tools rounded up, do what the pic's show, AND................... the screw breaks?............lol
You bringing up and old thread I see. If I ever broke one I would walk over to one of the parts motors and get a new peice.:-D
Funny this thread falls just on the kind of fun I am having now. I know a little about these IP's and I took one of my trucks and turned up the fuel all the way. That is adjusting the smoke cam and full out on the wedge threaded rod. Don't take you hands off the shifter as it winds out quick and talk about drift around cornors. I might even take this to the drag strip and see what it will do.:-D
 
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ODdave

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well i figured out what to do, last resort was to rob it from one of the other m35's so i decided to go on down to the local deisel shop (whom i developed a relationship with due to cucv glowplugs....) after about 2 hours of shooting the **** i learned a lil more about these pumps and was given a new compensator unit and 2 othere fuel plates along with a block off cap if i chose to eliminate the compensator. Those guys are awsome! Its back together and runs GREAT. very noticable difference with little smoke. (i kept the compensator on it) thankyou everyone who added to this form. it was a fun learning experience
 

Floridianson

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well i figured out what to do, last resort was to rob it from one of the other m35's so i decided to go on down to the local deisel shop (whom i developed a relationship with due to cucv glowplugs....) after about 2 hours of shooting the **** i learned a lil more about these pumps and was given a new compensator unit and 2 othere fuel plates along with a block off cap if i chose to eliminate the compensator. Those guys are awsome! Its back together and runs GREAT. very noticable difference with little smoke. (i kept the compensator on it) thankyou everyone who added to this form. it was a fun learning experience
You should be able to get a real good puff of black smoke about the size of the truck when it opens up to full fuel. The motor should only have this puff on take off and clear more more as rmp reach final. If you are empty or not bad hilly area the truck will run just fine like this. It is only when you load or loose to many rpm it is considered to be a lug and the smoke will roll then you have heat then the problem. One way is to down shift at the correct time and rpm as to return the rmp to red line this is what you hold till your next shift down.
I don't have a pyro but they can be a good tool to gage buy but you are more than a stearing wheel holder you are a truck driver. What came first the pyro or the truck? Become the MACHINE grasshopper said my friend.
 

ctmustang

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Man I have spent many nights looking for info on the droop or smoke screw. My truck boggs really bad when taking off forward or reverse and have been thru all the usual filter changes and such. Somebody who can tell me where on the ip and recommended adjustment would be appreciated.
CT
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

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Earlier in this thread there was a pic that said it was taken from above the pump and to the left was the front of the truck. The gold looking plate in that pic I don't see anywhere on mine. I've spent the last hour or more looking for more pics or instruction on how to do this with no luck. I have tried the links that some have posted in this and other threads and none seem to be working at the moment. Can some one please direct me to a better thread or post some better pics? Or Westech you can always come on down and help me out too.

Thank you
 

Floridianson

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Do you have an FDC on yours. If not the main fuel will be under the 4 bolt cap that is about 3x2 on top of the IP twards the rear where the FDC would be if you had one. If you have FDC look between the FDC and HH. There you should see round cap with locking wire. Below that is a triangler looking cover with three bolts and locking wire. Remove wire cap and discard. there you should see treaded rod with two nuts. That is main fuel.
 
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