UPFINN's Deuce Build

[m109a2]

Very impressive list.I hope you are not in love with those mirrors,I caught flak over 3 chrome balls and a hook on my civi reciever hitch on my deuce.When someone ask you why you bought this beast I consider that is a stupid question so give them a stupid answer like I am scared that I will not be able to drive something green without being cool.Good luck.Al

 

[UPFINN]

Very impressive list.I hope you are not in love with those mirrors,I caught flak over 3 chrome balls and a hook on my civi reciever hitch on my deuce.When someone ask you why you bought this beast I consider that is a stupid question so give them a stupid answer like I am scared that I will not be able to drive something green without being cool.Good luck.Al

The old mirrors were green but the glass was faded. I was going to replace the glass but it was just easier picking up new mirrors. I got them at O'Reilly's. I kind of like the stainless steel and never got around to painting them. Don't know if I will.

 

[UPFINN]

Well today I went to town to get supplies. It was a wild goose chase looking for all the materials and comparing prices. Half the items on the supply list were either out of stock, I found something better, or was unsure if I really needed it.

I still have to get another gallon of primer, paint sticks, mixing containers, etc and make sure the fuel and oil filters are correct. The filters at NAPA had to be ordered and I had to be absolutely sure the seals would work. Just before going to town I read about issues with the seals. Will be going back tomorrow.

 

[m109a2]

No kidding all that work and go to a rally.With something shinny.Big Balls.Al

 

[UPFINN]

Ran into an issue with my air compressor. My air compressor is only 9cfm at 40psi and 26 gallon. All the better hvlp guns I look at are 12cfm at 40psi. Harbor freight only makes one gun that is good for 6cfm, the 16$ one with 1.4mm nozzle. I am also looking at the 110$ turbine paint sprayer. I've read good things about it but there seems to be issues spraying oil based enamel (has to be thinned too much), but others have luck.

I don't know if I should attempt to use a good gun on my small compressor, or get the cheap gun that uses less air, or get a turbine sprayer. Renting a air compressor is around $50 a day and any bigger compressor would need 220v which I do not have hooked up yet (going to re-route 220v line from non-functioning hot tube heater to plug in shop). I would have to rent a gas compressor. I do not know anyone with a compressor I could borrow. I will be painting over multiple days, maybe up to a week (or more due to weather), so renting would probably end up around $500+)

 

[red]

Check out one of the Huski air compressors at home depot. I used a 33 gallon one for painting my old 87 pickup and it worked fine.

 

[UPFINN]

Check out one of the Huski air compressors at home depot. I used a 33 gallon one for painting my old 87 pickup and it worked fine.

That compressor is only 6.8cfm at 40psi. Mine is 9cfm. I would think my compressor could work then. Do you know what gun you were using?

 

[red]

I was using a mid quality kobalt paint gun, nothing crazy.

 

[UPFINN]

I might just get HF's cheapest gun and give it a try. If it doesn't work I'll get the turbine unit. I'm sure I could thin primer and enamel to run both in a 1.4 tip. Primer should be sprayed in a 1.8 or 2. I still need to get water/oil separators and filters. The small in-line desiccant filters that go on the gun are pretty cheap, but the big canister type filters are pretty pricey. I already have one of those for dust, but not water.

 

[UPFINN]

Latest Update

I had some issues with steering on my deuce but seem to have fixed it by changing the tire. Thread can be found here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?139313-Truck-Pulling-to-Right

After issues tracking down the proper oil and fuel filters locally I just ordered them online.

If it helps anyone I picked up the following for oil:
6 gallons of Delvac 15w40 1300 Super engine oil from NAPA
4 gallons of Traveler brand 90w GL1 for transmission and transfercase from Tractor Supply
5 gallons of Traveler brand 80w90 GL5 for differentials from Tractor Supply

Extra oil will be used in winch and steering gear box.

I have most of my repainting supplies and will start washing and sanding the truck tomorrow. My goal is to finish prep by the end of next week and paint the weekend of the 15th.

For spraying paint I ended up ordering a $100 turbine HVLP system from Harbor Freight. Seems to have good reviews.

I was also considering a LVLP gun for my compressor but was concerned with condensation issues, dependability, and overworking the motor. My compressor is old and has been used heavily.

 

[UPFINN]

Well today I started the body work.

Sanding the truck will be pretty easy. Use random orbit sander or DA with 400 or 600 grit and a detail sander for tight places. Not much rust on the sheet metal body panels.

There is a good amount of rust on the bed. The underside of the bed has some rust but it is partially covered in some kind of nasty oily undercoat. To take the undercoat off I started by sharpening a scraper and peeling off the coating. Then I hit it with a knotted wire end brush on a drill, knotted cup brush on a grinder, followed by a fine wire wheel and a fine wire cup brush on a drill. I need to go over everything with a fine grit poly brush on the drill then it should be ready to prime. At least the frame rails are good, so I just can run over them with 400-600 grit on the orbit or DA.

I got one side of the bed done today and tomorrow I will finish the other and begin sanding the frame rails and body.

 

[UPFINN]

**Update**

The sanding process is A LOT harder than I thought it would be. The oil undercoat did not come off from sanding. With closer inspection I noticed it just spread thinner. I ended up having to wipe most of the frame, underside of bed, and inside of fenders with mineral spirits. That softened the coating and I was able to get it off with a sharp scrapper and wire brush. I also used a ton of shop rags, foam brushes, and mineral spirits.

After the coating was removed I went over rust with a needle scaler, wire wheel, poly cup brush, 80 grit sandpaper, then 120 grit. I think 120 is as high as I will go before primer. I am tired of sanding the underside of the truck and want to move to the body metal.

My only major concern is that the paint (original, not CARC) is flaking patchy under the fender. It is very strange compared to other areas of the truck. 60/80 grit sandpaper and wire/poly wheels don't really remove it, but it comes right off with a needle scaler, however it damages the thin metal. When I blow high pressure air at it, it flakes in random areas. I can also peel it with a scraper and a lot of pressure. In some ways it seems to unstable to paint over, but in other ways it is a pain in the a$$ to get off. Advice? I have been working on the fenders for many hours and might just call it done and prime.

As for work on the body sheet metal, I have wire wheeled all the rust spots, and now need to feather them out with 80 and 120 grit paper.

I have some questions. On the body should I just sand to 120, then prime, and paint over the primer? Should I sand to something like 320, prime, then paint? Or should I sand to 120, then prime, and sand the primer to 320 or 400 before painting? I am using rustoleum rusty metal primer and alkyd enamel paint.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I sand to 60g and paint, its a tactical vehicle, not a Bugatti!


I understand everyone's got different opinions but I think your too worried about it. I might not be worried enough, never can tell anymore!

 

[UPFINN]

I sand to 60g and paint, its a tactical vehicle, not a Bugatti!


I understand everyone's got different opinions but I think your too worried about it. I might not be worried enough, never can tell anymore!

I ended up just sanding everything to 120 and will just prime and paint. I was told by friends who paint cars to go through a bunch of grits using a DA and blocks, but after spending several days to do the first sanding, I would be working on it for a month if I did that! The carc paint was actually rougher than the areas sanded to 120.

Still have to do the cab and hood, and then it will be ready for the final wash and prime. I will just spray the paint over the primer without wet sanding. I think it would take too long to sand it smoother consistently due to the strange angles and size of the project, and then there would be gloss differences.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Its just like everything else, prep work is 90% of the job. You should have a real nice paint job that will last for years.

 

[UPFINN]

Its just like everything else, prep work is 90% of the job. You should have a real nice paint job that will last for years.

Main thing I am worried about is slowing the rust. We have salt on the roads sometimes from October through May due to the long winters. Older vehicles made of steel rot very fast. Newer vehicles with newfangled alloys, not so much. Our Pontiac Aztec which is used all year and has been on the road since 2002 has less rust than the deuce developed in 2 years of minimal winter driving.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Get one of those "undercoating guns" and spray the underside of your truck with used motor oil every Oct 1st. It will help a bunch.

 

[UPFINN]

Get one of those "undercoating guns" and spray the underside of your truck with used motor oil every Oct 1st. It will help a bunch.

The truck already has some kind of oily coating on the underside. It is working good. Very little rust. I was going to strip it all off, but I'm thinking just spot touch up the rust spots then spray more oil over it.

 

[UPFINN]

Sanding on the body and frame is complete!

I am going to wash, prime, and paint as soon as possible. My next other task will be to pull the wheels and paint the rims along with service bearings and adjust brakes. I also need to repaint inside the bed and cab, but since I need to haul stuff I will hold off. The cab will take some work. I need to figure out what areas will be painted and what areas will get spray on liner and noise reducer. The seats will need to be pulled and new canvas installed.

I will post pics tomorrow of how it looks after sanding. The carc was pretty thick in most areas so I didn't really have to sand down much.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Can't wait to see it! I have a buunch of paint for my truck, but it keeps needing mechanical work.