Wait light troubleshooting

[Action]

S


Socket A & B in engine connector harness.

You did have the harness attached to the temp sensor, right?

 

[jkcondrey]

Yep it was attached. Followed all the steps to this point. The sender I ordered that was the correct part number seems to be a no name brand, thinking maybe it’s junk. The other sender was a different part number.

 

[jkcondrey]

Other side of the troubleshooter>

 

[jkcondrey]

All three senders show no cont. between 3&6 as well.

 

[Action]

Out of curiosity, I will check mine tomorrow and let you know.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Other side of the troubleshooter>
View attachment 844270

Watch out using the flow chart troubleshooter. Portions were written around the old Protective Control Box PCB. Those"glow plug controllers" had bi-metal switches (hard contacts) and the TSU's are solid state (electronical) YEP that's what's in them. Those readings may / will be off if working off old PCB test documents.

IMO... your best bet is to verify continuity of suspected conductors end to end if you have reason to suspect ?? (harnesses can fail, but not likely, unless the rig is a hack job) Check over connectors carefully. They get twisted, tugged, pulled and wet.

Ever figure out the #27 wire voltage (must be 24 V) to the LED from previous posts ? This is key for operation of LED... AND as stated does the E BRAKE led work?

Does the truck start "easily" from a cold start? Prior to this start does the voltmeter dip / cycle ?

Not a fan of this part of the HumV, CAMO

I feel were chasing our tail here... LOL

 

[jkcondrey]

Watch out using the flow chart troubleshooter. Portions were written around the old Protective Control Box PCB. Those"glow plug controllers" had bi-metal switches (hard contacts) and the TSU's are solid state (electronical) YEP that's what's in them. Those readings may / will be off if working off old PCB test documents.

IMO... your best bet is to verify continuity of suspected conductors end to end if you have reason to suspect ?? (harnesses can fail, but not likely, unless the rig is a hack job) Check over connectors carefully. They get twisted, tugged, pulled and wet.

Ever figure out the #27 wire voltage (must be 24 V) to the LED from previous posts ? This is key for operation of LED... AND as stated does the E BRAKE led work?

Does the truck start "easily" from a cold start? Prior to this start does the voltmeter dip / cycle ?

Not a fan of this part of the HumV, CAMO

I feel were chasing our tail here... LOL

The truck is pretty clean so I don’t think it’s been hacked up. The brake light does work, as do all gauges. The 27 feed does not get a full 24v, I only read 5-6 volts. I did dig around behind dash looking for the splice and found the main gauge splice. Continuity between the 27 feed to the Wait light was good to the gauge feed. This morning was the first cooler temp morning, around 55, truck needed longer to fire so I don’t think plugs are firing, no volt gauge flutter either. The wiring on the harness from controller to the pcb shows ok per the troubleshooter.

 

[Milcommoguy]

The truck is pretty clean so I don’t think it’s been hacked up. The brake light does work, as do all gauges. The 27 feed does not get a full 24v, I only read 5-6 volts. I did dig around behind dash looking for the splice and found the main gauge splice. Continuity between the 27 feed to the Wait light was good to the gauge feed. This morning was the first cooler temp morning, around 55, truck needed longer to fire so I don’t think plugs are firing, no volt gauge flutter either. The wiring on the harness from controller to the pcb shows ok per the troubleshooter.

If your meter is grounded to engine and #27 has 5 Volts... need to figure that out IMO. Same as brake LED SOOOOO.... Wassss UP . Might want to check the Packard connectors and the crimps to wire inside. How about all the grounds. Everyone needs a ground kit ???

Time to get this fixed. Come on out here and I'll fix it in 110 degree desert heat.

When you're hot you're hot, CAMO

 

[jkcondrey]

If your meter is grounded to engine and #27 has 5 Volts... need to figure that out IMO. Same as brake LED SOOOOO.... Wassss UP . Might want to check the Packard connectors and the crimps to wire inside. How about all the grounds. Everyone needs a ground kit ???

Time to get this fixed. Come on out here and I'll fix it in 110 degree desert heat.

When you're hot your hot, CAMO

Yeah I do have a brand new grounding kit but I really hoped to figure this out. But with three controllers that none pass that troubleshooter step I gotta wonder what’s up. I’ll trade desert heat for the swamp crotch heat here anytime. But of a drive though. I ordered one more controller, Nartron branded to see if it works. After that….

 

[jkcondrey]

Camo… when I connect the 27 feed through my multi and connect to engine ground I get 24v. Guess I may wait on the ground kit for the new controller to arrive, try that and if that fails the ground kit. Does anyone else with Nartrons have continuity on pins 3 & 6 on the sender per troubleshooter ?

 

[Milcommoguy]

Camo… when I connect the 27 feed through my multi and connect to engine ground I get 24v. Guess I may wait on the ground kit for the new controller to arrive, try that and if that fails the ground kit. Does anyone else with Nartrons have continuity on pins 3 & 6 on the sender per troubleshooter ?

Is that NOW QUOTE "when I connect to the the engine" Well.... What's that tell you? When you get the goofy 5 volts, where was the meter ground connected? This could be a clue?

Don't wait...build it. Some owners have experienced "failed grounds" and swear by slapping on some wires. Not a fan, but quickie fixer upper, gremlin bypasser, remedy enhancement, wallet suck, 80 dollars wire kit might work for you.

If ?? quote is true... Might want to clean up the one behind the dash near the fuel filter. Second thought do them ALL.

Keep digging and scratching... Good luck.

Clueless in Rosamond. Not the movie, CAMO

 

[86humv]

Camo… when I connect the 27 feed through my multi and connect to engine ground I get 24v. Guess I may wait on the ground kit for the new controller to arrive, try that and if that fails the ground kit. Does anyone else with Nartrons have continuity on pins 3 & 6 on the sender per troubleshooter ?

........................
I tested sensors pin 3 & 6 with meter on Auto:.... 7 ea new and used KDS yellow band CR-2696A sensors = 12.5K ohm ...then 5 ea. Nartron 12480779-2 = 12.7 k ohms... then 4 ea.Nartron 12338772 = 7.0 to 13.5 Meg ohm......I had 1 ea. used Nartron 12469158-2 which did not read anything.

 

[jkcondrey]

........................
I tested sensors pin 3 & 6 with meter on Auto:.... 7 ea new and used KDS yellow band CR-2696A sensors = 12.5K ohm ...then 5 ea. Nartron 12480779-2 = 12.7 k ohms... then 4 ea.Nartron 12338772 = 7.0 to 13.5 Meg ohm......I had 1 ea. used Nartron 12469158-2 which did not read anything.

Hmmm. The truck originally came with 12480779-2. I ordered a new one of that part # and also 12469158-2 which should have been the matching sender. None were good. I have another sender coming, yellow labeled KDS with the 12469158-2 number on it. If that one does not read good, I may go the old ground kit route and try again with each sender to see if the troubleshooter may have me looking at the wrong pins. But it pretty plainly states 3&6. Thanks for checking on this for me, gives me more to go on.

 

[86humv]

Hmmm. The truck originally came with 12480779-2. I ordered a new one of that part # and also 12469158-2 which should have been the matching sender. None were good. I have another sender coming, yellow labeled KDS with the 12469158-2 number on it. If that one does not read good, I may go the old ground kit route and try again with each sender to see if the troubleshooter may have me looking at the wrong pins. But it pretty plainly states 3&6. Thanks for checking on this for me, gives me more to go on.

I see you have a Nartron yellow label box...Remove it, open it up and see if anything is burnt inside.

 

[jkcondrey]

I see you have a Nartron yellow label box...Remove it, open it up and see if anything is burnt inside.

Pulled the box and opened it up. Looked pristine. No burns, Smokey areas or anything suspicious. I put it back in and installed the kascar grounding kit, cleaning connections as I went. Still no light, but it did appear that the plugs may have cycled as the voltage stayed in yellow for about a minute the went full green. Guess I will wait on the next new controller and probably order a light as well.

 

[jkcondrey]

 

[Milcommoguy]

Pulled the box and opened it up. Looked pristine. No burns, Smokey areas or anything suspicious. I put it back in and installed the kascar grounding kit, cleaning connections as I went. Still no light, but it did appear that the plugs may have cycled as the voltage stayed in yellow for about a minute the went full green. Guess I will wait on the next new controller and probably order a light as well.

Not an expert here... But that could be normal as the certain alternators act that way. (which one do you have?) Did you ever check the glow plugs resistance... all 8 of them?

I am not sure we are communicating well here. LED checks good, fiddling around, only 6 volts, then connects to engine ground and got 24 volts. Never stated ground at the #571 wire produced WAIT on. Starts swapping parts like cards in a magic trick.

Just looked at your photo... and I see that on the solenoid near the 3 red wire there is corrosion or a lighting blast arc (short sparked) and the housing look to have been hot, discolored bluish plating. Not sure...photo may be playing tricks on me old eyes.

Little lost as to what cup the ball is under here, But it's in your court, CAMO

 

[jkcondrey]

Yeah it’s just the

Not an expert here... But that could be normal as the certain alternators act that way. (which one do you have?) Did you ever check the glow plugs resistance... all 8 of them?

I am not sure we are communicating well here. LED checks good, fiddling around, only 6 volts, then connects to engine ground and got 24 volts. Never stated ground at the #571 wire produced WAIT on. Starts swapping parts like cards in a magic trick.

Just looked at your photo... and I see that on the solenoid near the 3 red wire there is corrosion or a lighting blast arc (short sparked) and the housing look to have been hot, discolored bluish plating. Not sure...photo may be playing tricks on me old eyes.

Little lost as to what cup the ball is under here, But it's in your court, CAMO

I think it’s just the lighting. All the connections, wiring, circuit board look great. The hazy spot on the solenoid is the white wires reflection on the solenoid. I’m at a loss. So. Tomorrow evening I’ll start the troubleshooter again and work through it all. I haven’t ohmd out the glow plugs no, so that’ll get done too.

 

[jkcondrey]

Ok fiddled some more. Andy has offered to loan me a known good box and sender to test. In meantime, I went back through shooter. The 571 ground from the light, I grounded that to the new ground harness. Light now comes on. However, it now won’t turn off after cranking…So next couple of days I hope to borrow the other box/sender and see if either of mine are the culprit. Leaning towards box now.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Ok fiddled some more. Andy has offered to loan me a known good box and sender to test. In meantime, I went back through shooter. The 571 ground from the light, I grounded that to the new ground harness. Light now comes on. However, it now won’t turn off after cranking…So next couple of days I hope to borrow the other box/sender and see if either of mine are the culprit. Leaning towards box now.

Leaning... LEANING..... WAIT when the bill comes for a good new set up, LOL. Check each glow plugs for 1.5 to 5 Ohms. Replace open ones first.

Would like to know what you find on these "GROUNDS" before the magical ground kit. Check the ground behind the dash with doggy house off. Little hard, PITA to get at, but you will have to anyway. There is a very big important one on the starter too. Easy ones are the engine & generator. There's another on the steering column too. (not in the kit)

Little tip... just to test, no need to mess with screwing in the TSU into the crossover manifold. I has its own ground wire. Do what you think..........

I will be falling over when the new stuff shows up, CAMO