Just want the gears out so I can clean/inspect and replace any bad seals. There was water in it, so I imagine they're bad.
I will get pics as soon as I have a second person available. So far I've gone solo on everything.
If the gears aren't pitted and the bearings aren't making any bad noises (and backlash checks OK), I'd just flush out the pumpkin with diesel, blow with compressed air, replace gear oil and call it good. If the inner axle seals aren't leaking oil into the tubes, they're doing their job - leave 'em alone. The TM is pretty well written, but it doesn't go into the fine details you only get from experience. When it comes to setting up gears, it's all about fine details. At least learn the basics on a 14 bolt first if you're dead set on attempting to rebuild a 60 solo. With no prior experience, a D60 is going to be a really rude awakening on just how involved the job can be. Your diesel mechanic friend is not a reliable source of help if he's telling you to pull the pinon first and judging by your choice of terminology you aren't yet qualified enough to be completely tearing apart a diff by yourself. I'm not saying that to belittle you or your friends knowledge/skills, I'm saying that because this job is a heck of a lot more involved than you're currently passing it off as. If you aren't fully prepared to finish it through to the end, you're basically screwed because no one else is going to want to deal with it. When you have to build a diff from complete scratch (no baseline gear markings, no baseline backlash, no baseline shim count) it is REALLY hard to do and a pro is going charge accordingly (It's only fair to charge double if someone's "tried to fix" something that causes the job to take twice as long as normal to complete).
Before you proceed any further, reinstall the bearing caps and torque them to spec. (I hope you "witness marked" the caps before you took them off, otherwise you're going to have to remove the carrier to check cap alignment) Using a Mag base and dial indicator,
check the backlash. If you only replace bearings, you'll want to ensure the gears at the same backlash as original, so you need a baseline reading. Spray down the ring and pinion with a can of brake parts cleaner before checking because it's hard to get an accurate reading with gear oil or marking compound on the gears. I usually put some marking compound on them just to see what the pattern looks like and how they are broken in.
Do you have all of this stuff?
Tools:
40 ton or larger press
D60 inner seal driver. homemade or store bought (threaded expanding style, trust me it sucks to do with a hammer and a socket)
Race driver for pinion bearings (brass drift works in a pinch)
Drivers (two) for pressing carrier bearings on
Clamshell style bearing puller set (Randy's Ring and Pinion or DuraSolid for knock-off version which is about $150 cheaper and basically the same)
Pinion nut socket - Homemade or store bought
Pinion holding tool (or at least a 36" pipe wrench)
Big 'ol air compressor and the meanest, nastiest 1/2" impact gun money can buy
Mag base and dial indicator
vernier caliper or 0-1" micrometer
0-250 ft lb torque wrench
Beam type in/lb torque wrench capable of measuring 0-60 in/lbs. (You can do pinion preload by "feel", but not recommended until you've done quite a few)
Two 36" prybars.
5lb or larger deadblow hammer
Etc. (anything I forgot to list)
Optional, but reccomended:
Carrier set-up bearings (Oversize ID for slip fit on carrier)
Pinion set-up race (Undersize OD for slip fit in housing)
Digital camera/internet connection to post contact pattern and ask what everyone thinks.
Optional but generally not needed unless you plan to rebuild diffs for a living:
Pinion depth tool
Case spreader
Parts/supplies
Replacement carrier if going 4.10 down (4.56 and up uses a different carrier)
Ring and Pinion if needed (used replacement gears optional , but are a little trickier to set up)
*Pinion shims as needed
*Carrier shims as needed
*Bearings as needed
*New inner seals
*New Pinion seal
(* indicates usually included with master installation kit, "mini" install kit does not include assorted shims n' stuff)
New ring gear bolts
GM yellow gear marking compound ($7, go to a GM dealership because even NAPA doesn't carry it. TM calls for Prussian Blue which is a total mess to work with and much harder to read than GM yellow)
White lithium grease
Loctite
A couple jugs o' 90wt
"The Right Stuff" RTV for cover
If you're going to attempt to rebuild a D60, you'll want most of the above on hand before you start. Trying to "make do" with only basic hand tools and a manual to rely on is only going to cause you more grief. Once again, my advice is - If the seals aren't leaking - leave 'em alone.
Good luck.
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