retro_life
Well-known member
- 243
- 629
- 93
- Location
- Los Angeles, California
Well I pretty much got all the wiring done for the GVOD. I got all the wiring under the truck insulated with some plastic conduit and taped them up leading to the hole. I used a 3M command metal hook to hold up wire going to the transfer case for 4x4 lockout. I used the metal hook, but swapped the weak tape for T-Rex super strong weatherproof double sided tape. That thing ain’t coming off lol.
All the wire enter the cab nicely under the seat. I decided to use the T-Rex to mount the control box to the back of the cab, and then connected all the wires right there. For ground I just used a self tapper behind the seatbelt. For the power I ran a wire under the plastic door trim and routed it with the seatbelt buzzer wire clamps.
Now all that’s left is to mount the foot and dash switch. The wiring on the dash switch is pretty short so I’m going to have to extend it. I think they figured people are going to mount their control box in the dash so they make that harness pretty short. The end of the harnesses terminate into telephone jacks to plug into the box. I figured I could just use a phone jack coupler and another phone cord to extend the wires like we did in the old days with our house phones. The only issue is the phone jack in the dash switch harness is a 6 conductor RJ12 style. Standard phone jacks have only 4 conductors and are a bit smaller. These 6 conductor cords are not something you can find at the store as they’re not really standard. So I had to order it from Amazon and it won’t be here until tomorrow.
For reference here is a picture of the 6 conductor RJ12 connector on the dash switch harness.
I don’t wanna start my complaining again, but it would be nice if they threw in some extensions in the kit lol. I may just plug the harness in behind the seat temporarily and short the switch wires out to take it out for a test drive.
I will report back!
All the wire enter the cab nicely under the seat. I decided to use the T-Rex to mount the control box to the back of the cab, and then connected all the wires right there. For ground I just used a self tapper behind the seatbelt. For the power I ran a wire under the plastic door trim and routed it with the seatbelt buzzer wire clamps.
Now all that’s left is to mount the foot and dash switch. The wiring on the dash switch is pretty short so I’m going to have to extend it. I think they figured people are going to mount their control box in the dash so they make that harness pretty short. The end of the harnesses terminate into telephone jacks to plug into the box. I figured I could just use a phone jack coupler and another phone cord to extend the wires like we did in the old days with our house phones. The only issue is the phone jack in the dash switch harness is a 6 conductor RJ12 style. Standard phone jacks have only 4 conductors and are a bit smaller. These 6 conductor cords are not something you can find at the store as they’re not really standard. So I had to order it from Amazon and it won’t be here until tomorrow.
For reference here is a picture of the 6 conductor RJ12 connector on the dash switch harness.
I don’t wanna start my complaining again, but it would be nice if they threw in some extensions in the kit lol. I may just plug the harness in behind the seat temporarily and short the switch wires out to take it out for a test drive.
I will report back!
