Was looking for a shop in or near Milwaukee to work on M1008; then did it all myself!

[chevymike]

Well it seems it was all wishful thinking and hoping The tapping is still there after installing a complete set of new injectors. Seems quieter but still there. I guess I’ll have to keep messing with it.
I was told it could be a collapsed lifter but the truck was perfect snd it started out of nowhere while on the road. Wouldn’t that be something caused from the truck sitting for a long time not being ran?
I still feel like this is fuel related because I can feel and hear the knocking on the injector lines more than anywhere else. Could this be an IP issue? I started getting black smoke on the drive home, but I initially thought it was from having to keep on the throttle to keep speed on uphill climbs on the highways because after I’d get over the hills and let off the throttle it would stop. But now I notice that even when I’m driving on the street if I give it a good amount of throttle it will give off black smoke.
Can it be the guy turned the fuel up too high on the IP or the timing is off?
If I can’t figure this out I guess I’ll just keep driving it until the motor goes. It’s just really sad and disheartening after all the time and money I’ve put into this truck.
I guess I could just start trying different additives, also. I dunno.
Thanks for all the tips and support.

Bummer it didn't solve it. If you're getting black smoke at times other than full throttle, I would guess you are over fueling. No idea if that could cause the tapping. Yeah, I know the disheartening part. Putting work into my rig and camper build to likely have a bad head gasket and/or cracked head(s). Will be doing an engine swap (7.4L BBC) but it wasn't in my plans for anytime soon.

Good luck!

 

[retro_life]

Here’s some clips from earlier. Let me know if you have any ideas.

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My local Napa has the liqui moly diesel purge in stock and I was thinking about trying it out, but for best results you need to run the motor off the can of the stuff. Any idea how I’d rig that up on the cucv?

 

[ezgn]

Here’s some clips from earlier. Let me know if you have any ideas.

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My local Napa has the liqui moly diesel purge in stock and I was thinking about trying it out, but for best results you need to run the motor off the can of the stuff. Any idea how I’d rig that up on the cucv?

Sounds like you would need to remove the filter and fill it up with the product. The only way your going to hook it up the way they describe in the video would be to remove the bed hold down bolts, shove the bed back 18'' and then you could access your fuel lines from the tank. A lot of work, but while your in there you could diagnose your fuel sender and sock.

 

[ezgn]

You could remove you glow plugs one at a time and do a compression test which would give you an indication to the health of the engine. You will need a diesel compression gauge and the proper glow plug attachment.

 

[cucvrus]

This may be a dumb question but have you tried changing the injection pump timing? I would try that. Move it to the drivers side 1 or 2 line thicknesses and give it a try. What could happen? At this pint you have everything to gain and nothing to lose. Just put it back if it don't help. But I NEVER left anyone turn the fuel up on any CUCV I ever owned. And when I had the injection pumps rebuilt I requested stock settings. I didn't do anything wrong. It lasted me for over 20 years of hard driving thru many CUCV's of every variant. Good Luck. I always say keeping it by the book makes it easier to fix by the book when any problem arises. Report back.

 

[retro_life]

This may be a dumb question but have you tried changing the injection pump timing? I would try that. Move it to the drivers side 1 or 2 line thicknesses and give it a try. What could happen? At this pint you have everything to gain and nothing to lose. Just put it back if it don't help. But I NEVER left anyone turn the fuel up on any CUCV I ever owned. And when I had the injection pumps rebuilt I requested stock settings. I didn't do anything wrong. It lasted me for over 20 years of hard driving thru many CUCV's of every variant. Good Luck. I always say keeping it by the book makes it easier to fix by the book when any problem arises. Report back.

No I have not messed with it. I set it right on the line and left it alone. Truck was running perfect for ~1000 miles when the noise started. Will I be able to get to the 3 bolts holding the IP with the intake manifold on?

The guy who did the pump told me he always turns them up a little when rebuilding them. So I guess that’s his standard thing over there. If I knew then what I know now I would’ve told him to set it to stock. But I don’t even know if that really had an effect on the problem because it was running amazing at first.

This may be a stupid question but could there be air in the lines? Or should that not be an issue once the truck is running?

 

[ezgn]

Sounds like you would need to remove the filter and fill it up with the product. The only way your going to hook it up the way they describe in the video would be to remove the bed hold down bolts, shove the bed back 18'' and then you could access your fuel lines from the tank. A lot of work, but while your in there you could diagnose your fuel sender and sock.

I didn't realize you don't have a spin on filter. No way your going to be able to do that with a horizontal type filter. With a spin on type filter you could empty the filter fill it up with product and run it through the system. It would not be the way they show it, but the right way to do it would be to access your fuel lines at your sending unit.

 

[ezgn]

No I have not messed with it. I set it right on the line and left it alone. Truck was running perfect for ~1000 miles when the noise started. Will I be able to get to the 3 bolts holding the IP with the intake manifold on?

The guy who did the pump told me he always turns them up a little when rebuilding them. So I guess that’s his standard thing over there. If I knew then what I know now I would’ve told him to set it to stock. But I don’t even know if that really had an effect on the problem because it was running amazing at first.

This may be a stupid question but could there be air in the lines? Or should that not be an issue once the truck is running?

Yes you can access the three nuts on the pump, the hardest one is the drivers side top nut. You need a thin wrench or grind one down a bit, the one nut will only let you turn the nut in very small increments and re positioning the wrench.

 

[cucvrus]

Hey like I always say. You Can Do IT. you proved that already. I use a 15mm swivel socket or a 12 point box wrench. Just give it a slight twist. Good Luck.

 

[ezgn]

I don't think air in your system is the problem, although it could be. Maybe your fuel pump, injection pump,fuel filter, you can put a clear fuel line to your injection pump and visually look for air in the system. I think if air was in the system you would be having starting problems.

 

[ezgn]

I think before I would start tearing into the system I would invest in a diesel compression tester $75.00 dollars and do a very non invasive quick and easy compression test. Or take it to a diesel mechanic and have him listen to it and maybe he could steer you in the right direction.

 

[Mad Texan]

The only way your going to hook it up the way they describe in the video would be to remove the bed hold down bolts, shove the bed back 18'' and then you could access your fuel lines from the tank. A lot of work, but while your in there you could diagnose your fuel sender and sock.

I didn't realize you don't have a spin on filter. No way your going to be able to do that with a horizontal type filter. With a spin on type filter you could empty the filter fill it up with product and run it through the system. It would not be the way they show it, but the right way to do it would be to access your fuel lines at your sending unit.

Why not access the fuel lines under the truck on the passenger side frame rail and not mess with the tank or the bed....

 

[retro_life]

Hey like I always say. You Can Do IT. you proved that already. I use a 15mm swivel socket or a 12 point box wrench. Just give it a slight twist. Good Luck.

It was actually super easy to loosen the 3 bolts with a ratcheting box wrench. I adjusted the timing in both directions about a mark or two and it made no difference in the knocking unfortunately.

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[ezgn]

Did you check out your valve train and rocker arms when you had your valve covers off? The plastic guide buttons get old and can let go at anytime, causing your rocker arm to move on the shaft, this can cause you to lose contact with the valve and push rod.

 

[retro_life]

Did you check out your valve train and rocker arms when you had your valve covers off? The plastic guide buttons get old and can let go at anytime, causing your rocker arm to move on the shaft, this can cause you to lose contact with the valve and push rod.

Not really, tbh. I didn’t really have any reason to suspect anything was wrong at the time because the truck sounded perfect even before I started working on it. This is my first time working on these and I didn’t really have the foresight to check closely and no one advised me on that back then so I honestly just didn’t think anything of it.
The intensity of the tapping seems to have gotten a little less, but I hate saying things like that because then later on it ends up backfiring on me, like when I thought it was fixed after new injectors lol.
I went ahead and left the IP slightly advanced when I tightened it back up and it seems to have a little less smoke than before when getting on the throttle. The smoke also seems more on the white side.
I got under the truck with the stethoscope and I can hear tapping on the passenger side inside the exhaust pipe after the 3 bolt flange, but not before it in the manifold area. I’m thinking it
might just be the tapping sound happening in the valves/injectors on that side of the motor making its way into the exhaust. Do you think it’s worth trying to disconnect the exhaust pipe at the flange there? There’s a gasket there isn’t there? My buddy last night said it smelled like exhaust in the cab, but there was a lot of diesel spilled in the engine area from cracking the injectors which I attributed the smell to.

I dunno, but I’m getting to the point where I’m over it. I’m getting tired of chasing down the sound and may just forget about it and run it till the motor either craps out or just keeps running with a tick. I’ve read countless posts on the internet of people with ticking 6.2s and some failed and some are 50k+ miles later and still running strong with a ticking sound.

Maybe I’ll pull the motor out of my other truck and rebuild it while I drive on this one in the mean time. I really don’t know, like I said I’m just kinda over all this.

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[ezgn]

Not really, tbh. I didn’t really have any reason to suspect anything was wrong at the time because the truck sounded perfect even before I started working on it. This is my first time working on these and I didn’t really have the foresight to check closely and no one advised me on that back then so I honestly just didn’t think anything of it.
The intensity of the tapping seems to have gotten a little less, but I hate saying things like that because then later on it ends up backfiring on me, like when I thought it was fixed after new injectors lol.
I went ahead and left the IP slightly advanced when I tightened it back up and it seems to have a little less smoke than before when getting on the throttle. The smoke also seems more on the white side.
I got under the truck with the stethoscope and I can hear tapping on the passenger side inside the exhaust pipe after the 3 bolt flange, but not before it in the manifold area. I’m thinking it
might just be the tapping sound happening in the valves/injectors on that side of the motor making its way into the exhaust. Do you think it’s worth trying to disconnect the exhaust pipe at the flange there? There’s a gasket there isn’t there? My buddy last night said it smelled like exhaust in the cab, but there was a lot of diesel spilled in the engine area from cracking the injectors which I attributed the smell to.

I dunno, but I’m getting to the point where I’m over it. I’m getting tired of chasing down the sound and may just forget about it and run it till the motor either craps out or just keeps running with a tick. I’ve read countless posts on the internet of people with ticking 6.2s and some failed and some are 50k+ miles later and still running strong with a ticking sound.

Maybe I’ll pull the motor out of my other truck and rebuild it while I drive on this one in the mean time. I really don’t know, like I said I’m just kinda over all this.

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No reason to blow it up when you can just fix it. letting it go can be a costly decision. Why rebuild a complete engine when you can fix it before it blows. Run a compression test, if the compression is good then you know you have a motor worth saving. Repairing a push rod or a lifter is really not a bad job. All of it is accessible from the valve covers and can be repaired from there at a minimal cost. The push rods, guide buttons,lifters and the rocker arms can be accessed.

 

[retro_life]

No reason to blow it up when you can just fix it. letting it go can be a costly decision. Why rebuild a complete engine when you can fix it before it blows. Run a compression test, if the compression is good then you know you have a motor worth saving. Repairing a valve,push rod or a lifter is really not a bad job. All of it is accessible from the valve covers and can be repaired from there at a minimal cost.

I’m just kinda pissed over this whole thing.. morale is low right now. I’ll look into ordering a compression test kit. Thanks man.

 

[M1009_SPAIN]

Not really, tbh. I didn’t really have any reason to suspect anything was wrong at the time because the truck sounded perfect even before I started working on it. This is my first time working on these and I didn’t really have the foresight to check closely and no one advised me on that back then so I honestly just didn’t think anything of it.
The intensity of the tapping seems to have gotten a little less, but I hate saying things like that because then later on it ends up backfiring on me, like when I thought it was fixed after new injectors lol.
I went ahead and left the IP slightly advanced when I tightened it back up and it seems to have a little less smoke than before when getting on the throttle. The smoke also seems more on the white side.
I got under the truck with the stethoscope and I can hear tapping on the passenger side inside the exhaust pipe after the 3 bolt flange, but not before it in the manifold area. I’m thinking it
might just be the tapping sound happening in the valves/injectors on that side of the motor making its way into the exhaust. Do you think it’s worth trying to disconnect the exhaust pipe at the flange there? There’s a gasket there isn’t there? My buddy last night said it smelled like exhaust in the cab, but there was a lot of diesel spilled in the engine area from cracking the injectors which I attributed the smell to.

I dunno, but I’m getting to the point where I’m over it. I’m getting tired of chasing down the sound and may just forget about it and run it till the motor either craps out or just keeps running with a tick. I’ve read countless posts on the internet of people with ticking 6.2s and some failed and some are 50k+ miles later and still running strong with a ticking sound.

Maybe I’ll pull the motor out of my other truck and rebuild it while I drive on this one in the mean time. I really don’t know, like I said I’m just kinda over all this.

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Courage, do not decay, it is hard sometimes quite frustrating but do not decay, I know well what I am talking about my m1009 has been sitting in my garage for almost a year, rebuilt ip, rebuilt injectors, new batteries, new glow plug and it does not want to start, I also have the great Rick thousands of miles from my house helping me and guiding me to get it started, how are you going to decline with the help that is in this forum? You cannot, you must not get there, you will find the source of the noise, stand firm, after the work you have done on that m1008 I am sure you will

 

[retro_life]

Courage, do not decay, it is hard sometimes quite frustrating but do not decay, I know well what I am talking about my m1009 has been sitting in my garage for almost a year, rebuilt ip, rebuilt injectors, new batteries, new glow plug and it does not want to start, I also have the great Rick thousands of miles from my house helping me and guiding me to get it started, how are you going to decline with the help that is in this forum? You cannot, you must not get there, you will find the source of the noise, stand firm, after the work you have done on that m1008 I am sure you will

Thanks man, I appreciate it. I hope you figure out your issues too.

 

[Mullaney]

I’m just kinda pissed over this whole thing.. morale is low right now. I’ll look into ordering a compression test kit. Thanks man.

.
CHEAP easy way to look for exhaust leaks... Low Effort Required - Much easier than all the other stuff you have done!

Get yourself a spray bottle. Ladies hairspray, 409, Whatever.
Get the water good and hot and fill the bottle 3/4 or so full.
Get some good soap. Dawn or something like it.
Give the bottle a good healthy squirt. Don't shake it up, just swirl it around in the bottle.

Then, with your bottle of soapy water in hand, open the hood, and go crank up the truck.
Immediately walk around to that side where you think the ticking is coming from.
Spray it. Don't be bashful, give it a nice coat of water and soap.

It you get bubbles, you have the leak we have been talking about. If not, well it was a cheap way to hunt for it. WHATEVER you do, don't let the motor get scalding hot. It will just dry out the water and you loose the effectiveness.


MOST IMPORTANT: If you snatch your lady friend's hairspray bottle and dump it out for this project - Your death isn't my responsibility. You have been warned!