Water Pump

[Rustyshackelford]

Lets talk water pump replacement. Mine seems to be weeping from the weep hole so i'm doing my research before I take on the replacement. I've looked at old posts and the TMs and I couldn't find a step by step in the TM. Can someone point me to it?

I'm also hoping someone might chime in with tips and tech info from experience. Thanks in advance.

 

[Chaski]

It isn't too bad. One goofy thing about the 6.2/6.5 is that the timing cover is sandwiched under the water pump. You'll need to pull out the oil filler, remove the water pump and timing cover. Really the only thing I would suggest is that you get a fresh timing cover gasket, because they don't seem to come with the water pumps.

Only other thing is that there are two different pumps. There is a reverse rotation one for serpentine belt applications. Just make sure you give the parts store an early enough year to make sure you get one for a V-Belt application.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

Is there a way to tell the difference by looking at them?

 

[Chaski]

Just compare it to your old one. The castings are different where the impeller is. I don't have any photos.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

Got it. Please tell me about this sealant I'm reading about that needs to be added to the bolts.

 

[Hasdrubal]

TM-9-2320-289-34 3-48. WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT.


1. Cooling system drained.Fan removed, Fan shroud removed. Right side alternator bracket removed Power steering pump removed
Materials ; water pump gasket. Carb cleaning compound. Anaerobic sealing compound. Pipe sealant
2. Loosen clamp and disconnect crankcase depression regulator valve hose from oil filler tube (4). Remove 2 nuts (12), oil filler tube, and grommet (11) from water pump plate (5).
3. Loosen clamp (7) and disconnect thermostat bypass hose (6) from water pump (. Loosen clamp (9) and disconnect radiator outlet hose (1 O) from water pump.
NOTE ; Ensure that a suitable container is used to catch coolant as water pump plate is removed. Ensure that position of all bolts, studs, and screws is noted for Installation.
4. Remove 2 oil filler tube studs (16), 4 bolts (17), stud (23), 2 screws (24), long screw (21), long bolt (22), and 2 studs (13), Remove water pump plate (5) and water pump ( from crankcase cover (1.
5. Remove 7 bolts (19) and separate water pump (, water pump gasket (20), and water pump plate (5). Remove nipple (15) and plug (14) if damaged or if replacing water pump. Discard water pump gasket.
Clean anaerobic sealing compound from all sealing surfaces. Clean oil from all surfaces with carburetor cleaning compound, Clean pipe sealant from crankcase cover (1 and threads of all bolts, screws, and studs.


INSTALLATION
1. Install nipple (15) and plug (14) on water pump ( with pipe sealant, if removed. Assemble water pump plate (5), new water pump gasket (20), and water pump with 7 bolts (19). Tighten bolts to 20 Ib.-ft. (27 N.m)
2. Apply anaerobic sealing compound (25) to crankcase cover (1 in pattern shown.
WARNING Avoid skin contact with anaerobic sealing compound. Immediately wash off skin
3. Apply pipe sealant to threads of bolts (17). Apply pipe sealant to oil filler tube studs (16) and stud (23) on portion of threads installed on crankcase cover (1.
4. Install water pump on crankcase cover (1 with long bolt (22), long screw (21 ), 2 studs (13), 2 screws (24), stud (23), 4 bolts (17), and 2 oil filler tube studs (16). Tighten bolts (17) and stud (23) to 35 Ib.-ft. (47 N.m). Tighten all other bolts, studs, and screws to 20 Ib.-ft. (27 Nom).
5. Connect radiator outlet hose (1 O) to water pump ( and tighten clamp (9). Connect thermostat bypass hose (6) to water pump and tighten clamp (7).
6. Install grommet (11 ) on water pump plate (5). Install oil filter tube (4) on water pump plate with 2 nuts (1 2). Connect crankcase depression regulator valve hose to oil filler tube and tighten clamp.

There's a weird bug which replaces the number 8 with a smiley thing. Can't seem to change it. Who uses these things..they should be banned.

 

[Chaski]

Looks like I gave bad info on the timing cover gasket, anerobic goop is the right stuff to use.

For anerobic magic gasket goop I use loctite 715

For thread sealant I really like the anerobic pipe dopes that loctite makes. I use Loctite 565 or 567 for pipe and bolt threads.

 

[timarr]

there is a gasket for the waterpump backer plate its your choice to use. anaerobic is great stuff and pricey 10 bucks a tube. dont use loctite 567 its pipe dope for flair fittings.use 565 if you use loctite its good up to 10,000 psi. for you bolts.

 

[Jozseph]

FWIW, I would use the higher output/volume water pump that was made for the 6.5L. Never have enough cooling capability.

Review the following article;

http://www.thedieselpage.com/features/dualstats.htm

Regards

Joseph

 

[Aerialfred]

Speaking of fans, I am going to change my fan on the 6.5. Is this a big operation, or do I just remove the shroud, block the pulls from turning and remove/replace the fan? Thanks for any input.

 

[Chaski]

FWIW, I would use the higher output/volume water pump that was made for the 6.5L. Never have enough cooling capability.

Review the following article;

http://www.thedieselpage.com/features/dualstats.htm

Regards

Joseph

I would not use the newer pump suggested in the article. Rock auto shows a serpentine drive belt for the 6.5 engines in the year range that the pump was designed for. Trying to retrofit a CUCV with a serpentine drive belt system would be difficult.

A high flow pump will be a no or low flow pump if the impeller is turning backwards from the way it was engineered. Using that pump on a V belt system will rotate it the wrong direction.

 

[Jozseph]

I would not use the newer pump suggested in the article. Rock auto shows a serpentine drive belt for the 6.5 engines in the year range that the pump was designed for. Trying to retrofit a CUCV with a serpentine drive belt system would be difficult.

A high flow pump will be a no or low flow pump if the impeller is turning backwards from the way it was engineered. Using that pump on a V belt system will rotate it the wrong direction.

Peninsular Engines for years has offered a high output V-belt (normal rotation) pump for Marine and other applications......

Regards

Joseph

 

[Rustyshackelford]

I'm not so sure these things need more cooling capacity. I've been crawling all around the mountains around here on HOT days without a hint of a problem.