• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Weepy tire?

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,569
1,414
113
Location
Mayo, MD
I have a Wrangler M/T with a slow leak. I have shot soapy solution all over this thing and can't seem to find any leaks. I may need to remove the wheel and lay it horizontally to check for leaks again.

Is it common for the wheel O-rings to spring a leak? It doesn't seem like a big deal to replace the O-ring as long as I'm using the same tire and run-flat. Am I missing anything?
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
3,578
3,488
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Did you check the valve, and the point where the valve meets the rim?

Did you actually check the O-ring seal between the split rim?
 

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,569
1,414
113
Location
Mayo, MD
Did you check the valve, and the point where the valve meets the rim?

Did you actually check the O-ring seal between the split rim?
Yes, I soaped up the valve stem where it meets the rim. Nothing.

After checking the -20, the O-ring is not where I thought it was. The O-ring seems to be on the "back side" so it seems that I do need to remove the wheel and spray down the back side...or at least jack up the truck and spray it down while rolling the tire.
 

gringeltaube

Staff Member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,986
2,522
113
Location
Montevideo/Uruguay
Your wheel could look like this one....

And yes, if it leaks at the O-ring you may be able to confirm without removing the wheel.
Check the front side as well, around each nut and/or holes.

Best method I have found is to wet a sponge with soapy solution and squeeze it onto the suspected area, to create a layer of stable foam. Then just watch any bubbles grow... Works better than just spraying-on, IMHO.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

gringeltaube

Staff Member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,986
2,522
113
Location
Montevideo/Uruguay
BTW: that very same wheel pictured above looked- and sealed perfect after a little TLC... even reusing the same old O-ring.

Another suggestion - and something you don't find in the TMs: when reassembling these, cover both wheel halves with wheel bearing grease, where they contact each other. That keeps the gap filled with grease and prevents any corrosion, for years...
 

Attachments

papakb

Well-known member
2,285
1,185
113
Location
San Jose, Ca
You didn't say what your leak down rate is and if it takes a couple of days to bleed down just a few pounds I doubt your going to find it with a bubble leak check. Pull the wheel apart and clean the mating surfaces. I like the grease idea to help seal things up. Replace the O-ring on the valve stem and put in a new schrader valve. You can replace the inner valve without replacing the entire valve assembly.

I don't know where you got your tires but if you bought used Wrangler MTs they are known for sidewall leaks where they get punctured by desert thorns out at NTC. The Army replaces them instead of repairing them.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
3,578
3,488
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
So, after reading all the posts about split rims, I don't understand why we can't just use a silicon bead between the rims to seal them up. Either that or a solid sheet of man-made rubber with cut-outs for the bolts. Yes, the rubber beads would be better... But what about in an emergency? If you smooth off all the rust and paint the area between the rims, the silicon should seal in the air. Pulling them apart afterwards might suck, but using the "engine cherry picker method" would get it done.

Am I missing something?
 
Last edited:

gringeltaube

Staff Member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,986
2,522
113
Location
Montevideo/Uruguay
Am I missing something?
Yes and no..... A flat rubber gasket like you describe would probably be squeezed out and rip apart even before you got all nuts torqued to specs.
But a bead of silicone - or much better yet PU-sealant - instead of the O-ring, does work very well and I have proof enough of it.
Separating both halves is not a problem either: you just loosen all nuts about two turns and air up. I guarantee it takes less than 10psi.
 

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,569
1,414
113
Location
Mayo, MD
You didn't say what your leak down rate is and if it takes a couple of days to bleed down just a few pounds I doubt your going to find it with a bubble leak check. Pull the wheel apart and clean the mating surfaces. I like the grease idea to help seal things up. Replace the O-ring on the valve stem and put in a new schrader valve. You can replace the inner valve without replacing the entire valve assembly.

I don't know where you got your tires but if you bought used Wrangler MTs they are known for sidewall leaks where they get punctured by desert thorns out at NTC. The Army replaces them instead of repairing them.
It takes about 24 hours to get to 0 psi. I figured for a leak that fast, I should be able to see something. I haven't had a chance to mess with it yet.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks