Well I did it, stuck Deuce

[John S-B]

an h3 is a tahoe with a different body, nothing more or less. It ain't gonna touch that deuce! Letting air out of the tires now is just going to set the differentials tighter on the ground. If you are going to let air out i would pull forward a little, let some out, pull forward a little, let some out. That way you are already in the grooves cut before by the diffs. I really think at this point you need to leave the tires up and get a bigger truck to pull with. The tractor just does not have the weight but there is a trick you can use but you have to be careful. Attach you strap high up on the tractor, at the three point attachment if you have that on the 9. That will pull down on the tires but will also tend to rotate the tractor up in front so be careful not to flip!

never, ever, hook up to the 3pt hitch on a tractor!!!!!!!

that is just about a guaranteed way to flip it and kill you!!!!

always pull from the drawbar!

you must always pull from below the level of the rear axle or the tractor will rotate on the axle in a heartbeat!!
I don't care what anyone says, you will not have the reaction time to release the clutch or "jump off", as that is pretty much impossible from a sitting position on a tractor.

 

[Odyssey M]

never, ever, hook up to the 3pt hitch on a tractor!!!!!!!

that is just about a guaranteed way to flip it and kill you!!!!

always pull from the drawbar!

you must always pull from below the level of the rear axle or the tractor will rotate on the axle in a heartbeat!!
I don't care what anyone says, you will not have the reaction time to release the clutch or "jump off", as that is pretty much impossible from a sitting position on a tractor.

-------
http://www.kubota.com/safety/TenCommandments.aspx

Per the safety link "6. Keep your hitches low and always on the drawbar. Otherwise, your tractor might flip over backwards.". Number 7 is what got my second cousin killed--he just became complacent with the machinery he was around his whole life...

 

[John S-B]

I got it out. The tractor with the logs on the tires made me try a modified version and it worked just as easily.

Logs on tractor tires are a VERY BAD IDEA! They WILL HIGHLY increase your chances of flipping. On a duece, you won't flip, you just have to be carefull to avoid damaging the truck. Glad you got it out!

 

[John S-B]

-------
http://www.kubota.com/safety/TenCommandments.aspx

Per the safety link "6. Keep your hitches low and always on the drawbar. Otherwise, your tractor might flip over backwards.". Number 7 is what got my second cousin killed--he just became complacent with the machinery he was around his whole life...

That should be at least #2 if not #1, and it should read "WILL flip over backwards", not "might". Sorry to hear about your cousin, that type accident has killed a LOT of people, probably in the top three causes along with rolling over sideways and PTO accidents.

 

[Odyssey M]

I agree with you on the safety order ranking...I'm sure their legal-eagles did not use "will" due to deniable liability and the production of inherently dangerous equipment...

 

[EWhytsell]

I've road the 9N in wheelie loading it onto my trailer with a 7ft box grader behind it. Wasn't likely to flip, but the front tires stayed off the ground for about 5ft.

The tractor guy in the video on page #2 worked well, but I agree if the nose of that tractor been a few lbs lighter he'd have been in trouble.

I had a neighbor caught in a PTO, he was there for a full work day before anyone found him.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

never, ever, hook up to the 3pt hitch on a tractor!!!!!!!

that is just about a guaranteed way to flip it and kill you!!!!

always pull from the drawbar!

you must always pull from below the level of the rear axle or the tractor will rotate on the axle in a heartbeat!!
I don't care what anyone says, you will not have the reaction time to release the clutch or "jump off", as that is pretty much impossible from a sitting position on a tractor.

I understand its dangerous but you're riding the clutch to pull it so you just let off as its coming up, no different than you push the clutch to stop from running into a fence, and no more common sense to excersise that not leaning over the side and getting run over by your own tractor. I say mowing on slopes is much more dangerous, you have no control ove your roll over risk there.

 

[Heath_h49008]

If the tractor jumps, you won't have time to hit the clutch.

It's like the test of yanking a stalk out of a combine head. If you yank it out you're fine... but if the head grabs it you can't physically drop it fast enough to avoid being yanked in.

You might do it... but one slip, and you're dogfood. Is it worth it?

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Oh im not talking about flying full speed yanking it, im talking about controlled clutch slips to try to tug it out. He got it out anyway, and you are right it is dangerous.

 

[wdbtchr]

You can't believe how fast a tractor will flip over backwards and while it 's doing it you're off balance and probably won't be able to keepl your foot on the clutch. Even an under powered tractor pulling from the drawbar will stand up because the wheels are pulling the tractor up and away.

I saw my dad stand a Farmall Cub on it's rear wheels while dragging a log on flat ground. He was moving in 1st gear when it hooked on the stump of a sapling about 3' in diameter. The only reason he didn't go over backward was because the engine was so worn and loosing compression it stalled standing straight up in the air. He released the clutch with an 8' 2x4 to get in down, pulled the seat cover from the crack of his butt, and called it a day.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I dunno, i guess ive just done it enough it never seemed all that dangerous to me. ive only ever done it in my to30 never my farmall 504 row cropper. the to30s a much smaller more manageable tractor.

 

[John S-B]

I dunno, i guess ive just done it enough it never seemed all that dangerous to me. ive only ever done it in my to30 never my farmall 504 row cropper. the to30s a much smaller more manageable tractor.

Here's a little reading for you. In the second link note that 85% of accidents involving flipping over to the rear are fatal. I'm betting your Ferguson and Farmalls don't have ROPS. And that TO30 weighs at least 3000 pounds, it ain't gonna feel good sittng on top of you while you're folded in half upside down.

NIOSH/UPDATE/tractor hitching

SAFTEK Safety Information Services - Occupational Safety, Risk Management and Insurance Loss Control.

National Ag Safety Database - Tractor Overturn Hazards

 

[ChuckM]

Common sense goes a long way. Tractor in low range, 1st gear, and low rpm's can easily be controlled. If you can't keep it from flipping over backwards, sell your tractor immediately and never operate another one.

 

[zebedee]

hmmmm... I'm thinking "survival of the fittest", natural selection, evolution of the species or first place in this years Darwin awards.
So we all win - if you don't learn from experience or given advise, then we 'the enlightened' will be left to carry the torch after you 'check out'.


PS. NYFarmBurea were recently offering grants for ROPS roll bars for tractors, BUT, they'd only do it for "approved" manufacturers... so expencive as to make it rediculous. $1500 for two brackets and three pieces of rectangular or sq tube! Someone is having a laugh.

 

[John S-B]

Common sense goes a long way. Tractor in low range, 1st gear, and low rpm's can easily be controlled. If you can't keep it from flipping over backwards, sell your tractor immediately and never operate another one.

Common sense should tell you to hitch a load to the tractor the RIGHT WAY. If you can't operate your tractor the way it is designed you probably shouldn't own one. I had a linkage pin for the governor fall out when plowing once, there's no way I could have shut down the tractor or controlled it had I been pulling something the wrong way. Putting a tractor in low range, 1st gear will do nothing, that tractor will flip at idle. 85% of tractors that flip over to the rear result in a fatality. And I'm betting the only reason the other 15% aren't is because they have ROPS. I'd also say half of that 15% probably had major injuries or permanent disability. Pulling something from anything other than the drawbar is just insane.

 

[John S-B]

hmmmm... I'm thinking "survival of the fittest", natural selection, evolution of the species or first place in this years Darwin awards.
So we all win - if you don't learn from experience or given advise, then we 'the enlightened' will be left to carry the torch after you 'check out'.


PS. NYFarmBurea were recently offering grants for ROPS roll bars for tractors, BUT, they'd only do it for "approved" manufacturers... so expencive as to make it rediculous. $1500 for two brackets and three pieces of rectangular or sq tube! Someone is having a laugh.

I don't think you could make a ROPS for a Farmall for only $1500. At least not one that had some kind of engineering going into it. My tractor weighs around 5500 lbs.

 

[zebedee]

I don't think you could make a ROPS for a Farmall for only $1500. At least not one that had some kind of engineering going into it. My tractor weighs around 5500 lbs.

Personally I have to disagree, as I used to be an engineer and an AWS CWI, the personal time to design for a unique situation should not enter into the equation as the price quoted is for a factory, made from drawings standard item... and it's only a roll over bar not a whole cage.
Steel for ours was < $300, 1 hr for base plate cutting /drilling, 1 hr for box cutting and prepping, 1 1/2 hrs for jig n weld and prob 2 hrs total for prep n paint. Done. - just as solid as factory.

So if you use a fab shop rate of $70+ an hr, that's still well under $1k.

I'm not suggesting anyone with a shed and an old stick welder should cob up similar, but I have the 'where with all' and enjoy this kind of stuff.


None of this is condones avoiding the need for correct attatchment and pulling with the tractor. Probably a good thing that some people can't just go buy common sense!

 

[gimpyrobb]

"Common sense ain't so common anymore."

 

[ChuckM]

Common sense should tell you to hitch a load to the tractor the RIGHT WAY. If you can't operate your tractor the way it is designed you probably shouldn't own one. I had a linkage pin for the governor fall out when plowing once, there's no way I could have shut down the tractor or controlled it had I been pulling something the wrong way. Putting a tractor in low range, 1st gear will do nothing, that tractor will flip at idle. 85% of tractors that flip over to the rear result in a fatality. And I'm betting the only reason the other 15% aren't is because they have ROPS. I'd also say half of that 15% probably had major injuries or permanent disability. Pulling something from anything other than the drawbar is just insane.

Traction is the key ingredient. It doesn't matter where you hook the hitch if the tires don't spin or move forward the front end will rise....commonsense. The safest option is to attach a piece of equipment behind the tractor and use it as a "wheelie bar" if needed.

 

[John S-B]

Personally I have to disagree, as I used to be an engineer and an AWS CWI, the personal time to design for a unique situation should not enter into the equation as the price quoted is for a factory, made from drawings standard item... and it's only a roll over bar not a whole cage.
Steel for ours was < $300, 1 hr for base plate cutting /drilling, 1 hr for box cutting and prepping, 1 1/2 hrs for jig n weld and prob 2 hrs total for prep n paint. Done. - just as solid as factory.

So if you use a fab shop rate of $70+ an hr, that's still well under $1k.

I'm not suggesting anyone with a shed and an old stick welder should cob up similar, but I have the 'where with all' and enjoy this kind of stuff.


None of this is condones avoiding the need for correct attatchment and pulling with the tractor. Probably a good thing that some people can't just go buy common sense!

Doing it in house maybe. But when you consider the liability issues for commercial applications, that's when it gets pricey. I think you'd have to have something like an ANSI (?) certification or something to market it retail. That's what I'm basing my opinion on. There was a discussion on this on a tractor board I frequent sometimes.