Thought I heard some PS hissing that went away at full lock. Ignored it, driving along about 35mph wind shield gets blasted with fluid. Go to pull off the road no steering and no brakes. Pull out a can of spinach and yank the beast off the road and stand on the brake pedal. Open the hood and PS fluid is everywhere. Coated the bottom of the hood on the driver side, suspension coated, dripping everywhere. Now to try to figure out what broke.
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What broke? Place your bets
- Thread starter Sintorion
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SublimeMudTime
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I don't know what broke on the truck exactly. But I'll tell you what might be a little more broke in the next few hours: You wallet!
Wire Fox
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I'm guess one of the hoses coming up to the fan clutch solenoid. It seems pretty easy for one of those to split, pop off, and then whip around. If that's not it, chase the hoses that run under your alternator and see where one of those split. I think that you've just blown a hose, so as long as you got the PS pump offline quick enough, you might be able to get by with replacing hoses, fluid, and bleeding the system. ...oh, and cleanup.
Mos68x
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I'm with WF, I'd bet it's just a hose that came loose.
On the right track! Looks like another hose clamp issue. The hose going into the cooler worked its way out. This is the second hose clamp issue I have had. The last one was on the fuel line. My motor was very recently replaced and I am guessing who ever did the swap subscribed to the one size fits all approach to hose clamps as well as not taking the time to get them all tight. Now off to the parts store for some Dextron II, new clamps and maybe some new hose.
Wire Fox
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Dexron III should be alright and should be a heck of a lot easier to find. The -10 says that II or III can be used in the PS system. 1 qt for just the PS pump...1.25qt for also replacing the fluid in the cooler.
Mos68x
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If you are concerned with the hose comin off again there's a trick I use, I grab a centerpunch, or a tapered flat punch, and use just a few taps on the metal line. Doesn't need much, just a small bit of a lip so that when you crank on the hose clamp the rubber will catch that lip instead of sliding off.
Jericho
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Alternate method , use some 32 thousands stainless safety wire and run a twisted safety from the clamp forward to an anchor point, will fix it permanent Look in T.O. 1-1a-1
( AF ) available on line and still in use, shows your good safety methods
( AF ) available on line and still in use, shows your good safety methods
NormB
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I couldn't believe how many hoses were held together with 1/4" band clamps. Fuel lines (suction ANd pressure) and the PS hoses among others. Several of those hoses were leaking - slightly - after I'd replaced them so I added a SECOND clamp in the places there were leaking, much better, but I don't want "better" I want the things to WORK.
I bought a couple boxes of these and replaced many, many clamps. Thanks for posting this, I knew I forget some ('cause I hadn't changed the hoses yet).
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017L17WJC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
[h=1]Cambridge SAE Size 6 Worm Gear Hose Clamps, 10 pcs/Box. 1/2" Band Size[/h]
Good to know. I have been looking for quantities. I am guessing it is completely dry.
All my clamps are the regular worm gear hose clamps. This one looks like it should have been a 1/4 clamp that they used a 3/4 and it was ran down as far as it would go, but probably needed a few more turns. My neighbor is in the clamp business he looked at it and of course being a clamp expert said that I should remove all o them and replace them with these - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OL2325I?psc=1 They expand and contract and the slots in the band are covered so the band doesn't dig into the hose. Probably over kill, but judging by the explosion of fluid under my hood, even the low pressure side still has a substantial amount of pressure. The $10 a piece price tag kind of limits the number of places I can use them. Unless of course my neighbor comes through with a few dozen samples.
NormB
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Um, THOSE clamps are for things like the radiator hoses. Note the SIZE.
The 1/4 and 3/8 ID hoses for things like power steering and fuel are only about 5/8 OD, IIRC, hence the smaller clamps but the more clamping SURFACE area with a 1/2 vs a 1/4" band width.
erasedhammer
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I hate that hose. I have had so much trouble with it. I've replaced it a couple times and have tried all sorts of hose clamps. I check it before every time I go out, cause chances are, its started working itself off and needs tightening.
These are sized down to 9/16th http://idealtridon.com/aftermarket/flex-gear/flex-gear-43/
Action
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I think the benefit of this type clamp is the tension kept on the screw from the spring?
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I still have the windsor clamp pliers my Dad ground for the real clamps
a windsor clamp is self tightening, also there is the newer wire clamps.
The jackscrew clamps can never get tighter, those mentioned above do.
a windsor clamp is self tightening, also there is the newer wire clamps.
The jackscrew clamps can never get tighter, those mentioned above do.
In theory the washers are spring steel so that when it is cold, they flex to keep constant tension. Basically so you don't have to over tighten to account for cold shrinkage. I have never used them before so I don't know if they actually work any better.
Power Steering Pump
After my hose clamp saga, I have replaced the hose and filled the reservoir. Since I limped home, it really wasn't in a place that is easy to follow the bleeding process. How critical is it to follow that process of jacking it up and turning left right 20 times vs just filling it, starting it and then turning? Reason being, that is what I had to do to get moving. I got a lot of foam, let it sit, then tried again. No foam, but the pump is noisy under load and hisses when I shut it down. It takes a couple of nudges to get the pump turning the wheels and the pump makes a loud squealing noise (not a belt slipping noise). Brakes are very jerky. Also since this was totally dry, do I need to bleed the brakes and the fan?
I am thinking the pump was near the end. It would make a hissing sound while running and was making some noises before my hose problem. Driving it for 2 miles dry probably didn't help either. At this point, I am ok with replacing the pump unless someone can say that the bleeding procedure will magically correct my problem.
Now with replacing the pump. I have read a lot of back and forth regarding the OEM pump vs a standard gm replacement. I don't have a winch, and have no desire for a hydraulic winch. So has anyone that has replaced their pump with a gm from Napa had any issue? or does anyone know for sure that the OEM pump is actually different. I need to get this back on the road tomorrow and don't have time to wait to order one, but don't want to spend half a day only to do it again.
After my hose clamp saga, I have replaced the hose and filled the reservoir. Since I limped home, it really wasn't in a place that is easy to follow the bleeding process. How critical is it to follow that process of jacking it up and turning left right 20 times vs just filling it, starting it and then turning? Reason being, that is what I had to do to get moving. I got a lot of foam, let it sit, then tried again. No foam, but the pump is noisy under load and hisses when I shut it down. It takes a couple of nudges to get the pump turning the wheels and the pump makes a loud squealing noise (not a belt slipping noise). Brakes are very jerky. Also since this was totally dry, do I need to bleed the brakes and the fan?
I am thinking the pump was near the end. It would make a hissing sound while running and was making some noises before my hose problem. Driving it for 2 miles dry probably didn't help either. At this point, I am ok with replacing the pump unless someone can say that the bleeding procedure will magically correct my problem.
Now with replacing the pump. I have read a lot of back and forth regarding the OEM pump vs a standard gm replacement. I don't have a winch, and have no desire for a hydraulic winch. So has anyone that has replaced their pump with a gm from Napa had any issue? or does anyone know for sure that the OEM pump is actually different. I need to get this back on the road tomorrow and don't have time to wait to order one, but don't want to spend half a day only to do it again.
Action
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I can't give advise on OEM or NAPA, but I would replace the pump. That powers steering and brakes, and I would not want to lose those while on the road. These pumps do not like to be dry...
Wire Fox
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Bleeding the system will magically fix your problem [if you didn't also damage the pump from letting it run partially dry]. After doing work on the cooling fan clutch in my HMMWV, I had a pretty sizeable air pocket in my system. The power steering would squeal, was heavy-handed, and I'm sure the brakes wouldn't have done well if I was actually driving the vehicle and tried to stop. I lifted the front of the HMMWV (I used my handbrake, wheel chocks, a farm jack to lift it from the bumper all at-once, and then set the control arms on jack stands) and turned the steering full lock to the left with the engine off...that actually caused audible glugging and completely drained the reservoir, so I refilled and went lock to lock a couple of times to ensure it was vaguely filled, then started the engine and followed the bleed procedure as-written. Once I lowered it to the ground, I could steer at a stand-still with no noise and with one-finger force. It actually held pressure so well that it almost blew off one of my hoses, so I had to go through and check the tightness on everything. I actually have new hose around and will get new clamps around shortly as one of my first improvements projects to do as soon as I'm on the road.