What did you do to your deuce this week?

[Another Ahab]

Now a Hungarian guy is interested in buying. Dunno what to do, wait for the first guy maybe coming next week, or let the Hungarian know he can come and look.. The first guy is also from The Netherlands and has to drive about 1.5 hrs, the other, well, I don't know how far he must go..

First come, first serve is my policy. This is because there are so many tire kickers out there I don't have time to ignore a potential buyer just so the guy who promised he would come never shows up.

Your job is to sell the vehicle, and not to play Miss Manners:

- Let the two people know about each other; that's fair (and nothing wrong with being fair).

For my thinking, whoever can make the deal first (and make the payment) deserves to take home the "cake".

If the second guy makes the deal first (and pays up), then sure you say "I'm Sorry" to the first guy (doesn't cost you anything to be decent and polite). But your job is to sell that thing, not to make friends (and if they don't get it; that's not your job to explain it to them).

 

[RobM36A2]

Your job is to sell the vehicle, and not to play Miss Manners:

- Let the two people know about each other; that's fair (and nothing wrong with being fair).

For my thinking, whoever can make the deal first (and make the payment) deserves to take home the "cake".

If the second guy makes the deal first (and pays up), then sure you say "I'm Sorry" to the first guy (doesn't cost you anything to be decent and polite). But your job is to sell that thing, not to make friends (and if they don't get it; that's not your job to explain it to them).

-I just informed guy 1, with the Mog I want, there is guy 2. Guy 2 has been informed about guy 1.
-Agree on your , now waiting for Guy 1 to respond to my mail.
He turns off his phone after 8pm and sometimes forgets to turn it back on, according what he said in his mails.
-If Guy 1 does not respond, or lost interest, Guy 2 can come. If I sell the truck, I might be able to buy the mog from Guy 1.

Me thinks this is the best way to handle with this situation.

 

[wilfreeman]

Installed my Vanner 60Amp battery equalizer, 2 new Napa group 31 batteries and a 6 circuit 12v fuse block installed. Took a 60 mile round trip ride today. Plan on getting my Tekonsha electric brake controller and 12v outlets installed this coming week if the weather holds out.

 

[Clay James]

I saw in your build thread the armored lights had infrared lenses in them. Did you get new lights or did you change out the lenses. If you just got new lenses where did you get them if you mind me asking. You can pm me you response if you would like.

I never could find the clear lenses. I ended up putting those on back and removing the lenses for the backup lights. Not ideal but it works. I bought two more for the front for the driving lights. Those lights as reverse lights are NICE. I can see where the **** I'm going especially with the backup cam.

 

[Seth_O]

Front axle boots. Again. Sigh.

Also completed a bunch more prep work for the winch install. Got PTO parts back from the machinist after a dip in the hot tank, sprayed primer and the first coat of OD green on the parts. Hopefully I can get the 2nd coat in on a few days, and then reassemble the PTO and start installation. It'll be nice to get the garage back again!

 

[59apache]

The weather was nice overhere, so went out to the M36 and started her up. Let her run at about 1100 rpm for a while, gave her some "black" fuel she loves so much, and got all my tools out. I love the smell of the exhaust with the black stuff with frying oil in the tank. After about 30 mins I shut her down and went home.

Some guy wanted to come and look, but he was a no-show.. same guy that wanted to trade for the Unimog 406.. Got a mail that said he was swamped in his work and wanted to come next weekend..
Now a Hungarian guy is interested in buying. Dunno what to do, wait for the first guy maybe coming next week, or let the Hungarian know he can come and look.. The first guy is also from The Netherlands and has to drive about 1.5 hrs, the other, well, I don't know how far he must go..

If he get stuck with his work, he can give you a call. No problem today with cell phones , whatsapp aso. That s..s.
First come, first serve. Everyone has the possibility to come, look and leave a appropriate deposit.
Its not your job to inform about other (maybe) interested guys.

Greets Juergen

 

[RobM36A2]

If he get stuck with his work, he can give you a call. No problem today with cell phones , whatsapp aso. That s..s.
First come, first serve. Everyone has the possibility to come, look and leave a appropriate deposit.
Its not your job to inform about other (maybe) interested guys.

Greets Juergen

Got the battery empty excuse.. Ohw well..
The guy from Hungary wants to come and look, and even buy it all the same day. It's about 1500km drive for him, he wants to drive home the truck.
I told him about the minor issues with the truck and he was still interested.
Let's see how that will turn out. Thursday I will know.

 

[Clay James]

Front axle boots. Again. Sigh.

Also completed a bunch more prep work for the winch install. Got PTO parts back from the machinist after a dip in the hot tank, sprayed primer and the first coat of OD green on the parts. Hopefully I can get the 2nd coat in on a few days, and then reassemble the PTO and start installation. It'll be nice to get the garage back again!

Did you ever get the new style front axle seals for it? I'm a couple years in and still no leaks

 

[Seth_O]

Did you ever get the new style front axle seals for it? I'm a couple years in and still no leaks

I did. I put them in a while ago (a year maybe?) The p-side is leaking again I believe. I think that side has issues though. The knuckle has always struggled to go together and some of the ring bolts are spun. I need to tear it apart and heli-coil all the ring stud holes and see if I can figure out what the problem is.

 

[Another Ahab]

Installed my Vanner 60Amp battery equalizer, 2 new Napa group 31 batteries and a 6 circuit 12v fuse block installed. Took a 60 mile round trip ride today. Plan on getting my Tekonsha electric brake controller and 12v outlets installed this coming week if the weather holds out.

Nice set-up, wilfreeman; what's the story on the cables here:

- Look like they're lying there loose

Those the cables for the battery equalizer?

 

[wilfreeman]

Nice set-up, wilfreeman; what's the story on the cables here:

- Look like they're lying there loose

Those the cables for the battery equalizer?

View attachment 545154

Yeah, I just posted that picture to show the shiney new batteries and how I mounted the fuse holders and ran those cables to the batteries. Those are supposedly waterproof fuse holders. I have a 60 amp fuse (Vanner spec'd an 80 amp, but Radio Shack didn't have one - should be fine for the planned 12v hookups planned though) on the 12v side and 40 amp on the 24v side. The 6awg cables run from the fuse holders up through the hole in the cab that the slave port cable runs through. Right now they are just run through bare and zip tied - I am going to pick up some wiring loom the next time I go to the parts store to make it a little cleaner install. The ground cable from the equalizer goes to the same ground point as the batteries - I cleaned the metal and coated everything with anti-ox when I re assembled the grounds.

I am happy with the install except for the "busy" battery box area when everything is buttoned up. I didn't leave quite enough slack in the cables going to the fuse holders, so you can't pull the battery box out completely - might change that later.

The first pic shows the cables coming from the equalizer and the second one shows the 8 awg wire going to the 12v fuse block - I might change this out to a more flexible cable. It runs the same path as the starter cable and up the firewall to the fuse block to the right and below the air cleaner housing. The big cable sticking down into the battery box on the first pic is for the slave cable port - the battery didn't have enough post to put install the starter, alternator, equalizer, 12v fuse block and slave cable and still have enough threads for the nut! Any ideas on a fix for this?

 

[Dipstick]

Well my fellow soldiers...I drove Brutus to work in a snow/ice storm that had cars going off roading and 4wd pickups sliding all over the place. Brutus and I just soldiered on in 4th gear between 20 and 30 mph. We climbed all of the hills without spinning a tire. Gotta love those F-stone T-831s. Our air pressure was not building fast enough, so at 02:00 during an ice storm, I popped the hood and tightened the air compressor belt with the biggest pipe wrench and crescent wrench I could find in the maintenance shop. I must have the green fever.

 

[Pugsley]

I was going to use it to pick up a new garage door for a friend but it turned out he went and got it the day before. So I figured while I was out I would climb some Mall Mountains.

http://youtu.be/3AEJxxW96s0
http://youtu.be/B1po0rj0lUM
http://youtu.be/-uf4uM61U0I

Had a small crowd filming me after the first few minuets! Was fun.

 

[Stoney8999]

Hey guys, first time posting here as a new member. Got me a deuce in September and man I love this truck! This website is great and already has been helpful. I have downloaded the TM's and have started reading them daily. Recently, I had the right side front and back turn signals go out and with some reading and troubleshooting I purchased a new turn signal control switch and voila, it was fixed. I also did a lot of research on this website. I look forward to reading new posts on here, meeting members and attending future rallies!

Semper Fi,

 

[rustystud]

Hey guys, first time posting here as a new member. Got me a deuce in September and man I love this truck! This website is great and already has been helpful. I have downloaded the TM's and have started reading them daily. Recently, I had the right side front and back turn signals go out and with some reading and troubleshooting I purchased a new turn signal control switch and voila, it was fixed. I also did a lot of research on this website. I look forward to reading new posts on here, meeting members and attending future rallies!

Semper Fi,

Hey TOP good to have you here ! Welcome to the "green disease" .

 

[Valence]

Continued the axle service last Saturday and broke a hard line trying to remove the wheel cylinder (I didn't realize that the hard line could be seized to the flexible line and then could still spin even if you had the nut backed up with a wrench), and have decided while I have a mere 1/5th of the flexible lines detached, I might as well upgrade to the best flexible lines money can buy via peashooter.





I also didn't realize until after, that the end on the rented slide hammer that I was using was TOO large, and it damaged the inner-axle seal retainer. After asking around here, I think the edges can be cleaned up and reused. However, while I'm spending myself to death I thought I'd be better off upgrading the inner-axle seal and retainers to welldigger's custom upgraded ones




This old little Coleman Catalytic Propane Heater is how I kept warm. It has hardly ever been used in its decades of life. I had to disassemble it and replace a tiny o-ring in the flow control module. Works like a champ now without burning any more of my hair off in miniature fireballs (true story). I wish it put out more heat though. Claims 4,000 - 10,000 BTU. Maybe I assembled it wrong, I seriously doubt it could ever do 10,000 BTU.

 

[RobM36A2]

Sold it..

The truck goes to Hungary, 1350km from here.

 

[Another Ahab]

Hey guys, first time posting here as a new member. Got me a deuce in September,

Hey TOP good to have you here ! Welcome to the "green disease" .

Welcome Stoney8999, and you might post your own thread with a "glamor" shot of your new Deuce. Like to see how she looks. Plenty people here happy to give you a proper welcome, especially when you give us all pictures.

 

[Valence]

I started the reassembly of the passenger side of the steering axle.

Upgraded inner-axle seal and zipper-less boot inner clamp:



I used 4 hand clamps to help me hold the outer boot lip edge in place as I worked around and around seating the outer boot lip and clamp. Still, this took me two tries to finally get it secured in the the right spot on both the lip and boot groove. I used a 5th screw clamp on the bolt hoops to get the boot clamp seated/closed enough for me to put the bolt and nut on! I had to be very careful doing this as I didn't want to break the boot clamp, or damage the boot since the other 4 clamps were still in place.

Also, with all these sharp metal edges and clamp shafts facing me and me moving my head all around the knuckle, I found eye protection more than a good idea.



Cleaned all the old grease and oil off the axle, it looks brand new. Repacked with over 4lbs of grease.


Put a new seal on. I used a flat pry bar to work the old one off, and some 3/8" socket extensions + gentle hammering around in circles to seat the new seal. Yes, the metal surface of the seal is slightly dented (can see that in the pictures), but should be fine (in my opinion).



I believe the wheel (brake) cylinder was still working, but in need of a rebuild. And the rebuild was super easy. Just had to locate a cylinder honer that was small enough. Below you can see where moisture probably sat over the years and started a little bit of corrosion. Was easily cleaned up.



Painfully slowly working on the front axle here I'll probably do a similar service of the rears now, especially to rebuild those wheel cylinders.

 

[Valence]

I wheeled and dealed a used Mohawk brand Military 9.00x20 NDT tire from a local ad. This is to replace the "cupped" and worn passenger front on the deuce. I probably still paid too much for it ($90) but it seemed like a good tire (~70-80% tread if I had to guess), and I didn't want to spend the time and gas driving around the valley for another.

It was flat, so I have no idea the condition of the inner-tube, how well it'll hold air, or even if the exterior locking ring (widow makers) will hold when aired up.

Thanks to SteelSoldiers (and chains purchased from Gimpyrobb) I learned about wrapping the tire and wheel to secure it in case of a violent divorce of the locking ring/tire/wheel. I faced the locking ring at a tree stump (safe direction away from me) and aired it up from behind. (For the record, I *almost* put the chains on too tight as I could barely get them off after the tired was aired up - duh! - I loosened them a little but put them back on)

Since I was still alive, I sprayed soapy water around the bead on both sides and valve stem to check for obvious air leaks. I didn't see any.

I left it overnight with the chains on, aired to 50 psi and we'll see how well it holds.