• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What did you do to your deuce this week?

59apache

Chipmaker
1,299
29
48
Location
Bavaria / Germany
Nothing on my deuce :-( but i had to bend new transmission lines on a friends Mustang... 5/16" tube. And the problem even with a bender are kinks.
So i had an idea...a 6mm wire rope inside. Result: Close to perfect bends.
index1.jpgindex2.jpg

Probably not a new trick for everybody, but maybe helpfull?
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,276
2,973
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Nothing on my deuce :-( but i had to bend new transmission lines on a friends Mustang... 5/16" tube. And the problem even with a bender are kinks.
So i had an idea...a 6mm wire rope inside. Result: Close to perfect bends.
View attachment 730811View attachment 730812

Probably not a new trick for everybody, but maybe helpfull?
That is a great idea ! Also sand works, and in a pinch hard Nylon rope will do.
 
Last edited:

Menaces Nemesis

"Little Black Truck" Conservator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
333
262
63
Location
Denver, Colorado
3,000 mile service;
Rotated the tires & adjusted pressure 55 psi/fronts, 42 psi/rears
Checked/adjusted the brake shoes while the wheels were off
Changed oil & filters
Exactly 40 grease zerks cleaned & lubed
Lubed hood & door hinges
Lubed throttle, engine stop, & park brake cables
Lubed the airpack
Checked a sample from the primary fuel filter
Checked the belts condition/tension
Checked all coolant, steering, IP hoses
Checked the fluid level in the power steering reservoir
Checked all the lights
(Washed the air filter awhile back, so that was alerady done)
 

59apache

Chipmaker
1,299
29
48
Location
Bavaria / Germany
Please keep in mind, there can be a quagmire of several, if not dozens, of TM's for any specific piece of equipment, spanning over thousands of pages of print, and the TM titles can be somewhat ambiguous regarding what is and what's not covered in the respective TM. So, when someone asks a legitimate question, Please don't be self righteous and rude by blabber-fingering "READ THE TM's!" Instead, Please lead with civility by providing the proper TM#, or Link, if you can. Thank You!
Very true, Sir!
RTFTM is not helpfull. :)

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?116093-M35A2-Deuce-Torque-Spec-Cheat-Sheet

I use this great torque spec sheet to find the right TMs :)
 
Last edited:

Menaces Nemesis

"Little Black Truck" Conservator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
333
262
63
Location
Denver, Colorado
Charged up the batteries, think fuel pumps going out. It shuts off randomly and then takes a while to restart. Tank is about full of fuel

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As others had suggested here on SS, I put one of those Parker 1C20-10 pumps out of a Bradley in mine awhile back. Runs so quitely, and man does it put out volume. I only see 1 left on that "E" auction site now (use search "m35a2 fuel pump").
 
Last edited:

montaillou

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
806
831
93
Location
W.WA
Installed bumper platform on the driver's side today.
bumper platform D side02.jpgbumper platform D side01.jpg

I'm not sold on the ladder, it's a little shaky.
 

montaillou

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
806
831
93
Location
W.WA
Looks great, how did you do it?
Bought 1/4" diamond plate (new) from a local metal recycler (call around, prices can vary widely even in the same town). They sheared the 2 pieces to my exact size (24" x 25") for an extra charge (~$150 for metal and cuts). At the same yard I found a rusting piece of channel iron which I got for about $10. Cleaned the rust off by soaking in vinegar (recipes can be found on youtube/google).

I made a cardboard template of the space where I wanted to put the platform. Traced the outline of the template on the pieces of diamond plate and made the cuts with a oxy/propane torch. I also cut up the channel iron into the brackets I would use for supports. You can see the cut is a little rough, but what the ****. Borrowed use of a torch. If you don't have access to a torch most places that sell metal could do the torch cuts for a small fee. I called one place and they would've probably charged me $10-$15 to do them. As I had access to the torch I cut up and made my own brackets, instead you could just buy angle iron and cut what you need. It would add about $20-$30 to the cost.

Braced the diamond plate using a bottle jack and piece of wood, lined up the brackets on the truck to where I approximately wanted them to go, used a sharpie to mark the location. Drilled holes (3/8") in the brackets using a vise and cordless drill (drill press would've been better, but didn't have one). Lined up the brackets to the diamond plate, using the predrilled bracket holes, and drilled holes in the plate. Painted everything with a primer+paint rattle can - I'll repaint it later, just wanted to cover all the exposed metal with something to protect it.

On the truck below the turn signal is a piece of channel iron whose sole goal as far as I can tell is to protect the wire that goes to the turn signal. This is what I put the biggest bracket against. I clamped the bracket to this piece on the truck and using the predrilled holes, drilled 4 into the channel iron, going through both sides. I bought 3.5" bolts to go through this channel and used plastic tubes cut to size for the bolts so they wouldn't rub against the wire that runs in the channel. I bolted everything using washers and nyloks (I've read studies that conclude lock washers actually contribute to loosen nuts in a vibration setting). For the diamond plate side I used nylon washers covered with steel washers. All the rest of the nuts I used were 1".

Once I had the biggest bracket and plate secured (on the right in pic), I propped the plate up using a bottle jack and piece of wood. If I leveled the diamond plate it wouldn't match the bumper because the bumper isn't level so I just kinda found a point I liked. Placed one of the other brackets against the bumper and using the predrilled holes drilled through the bumper. Once I got one hole done I put a bolt/nut on and that held it tight enough to do the other hole (it was getting crowded under the truck with the jack holding the plate up).

As for the ladder, it's a boat ladder that swivels and slides in it's own channel to stow. Found it on Amazon.
81eTp2NgE2L._SL1500_.jpg
It's got 2 steps and covers about 2/3 of the distance to the ground. Before I installed the diamond plate I disassembled the ladder bracket and lined it up on the plate, marked and drilled the holes (another great place for a drill press I don't have). I later counter sunk the holes on the diamond side as the screws would never sit right with the ridges.

Spent about $250 in materials. Haven't done the passenger side yet, will get to that later this summer (the diamond plate and brackets for that side are included in the material costs). I've done a dry fit on the passenger side already, I just have to drill all the holes and assemble. Spent a lot of time running around. A pro's job would've looked much better but also would've cost lots more.
 
Last edited:

Mrmag1

Head of Stuff N' Things
Steel Soldiers Supporter
602
13
18
Location
Hereford Arizona
Bought 1/4" diamond plate (new) from a local metal recycler (call around, prices can vary widely even in the same town). They sheared the 2 pieces to my exact size (24" x 25") for an extra charge (~$150 for metal and cuts). At the same yard I found a rusting piece of channel iron which I got for about $10. Cleaned the rust off by soaking in vinegar (recipes can be found on youtube/google).

I made a cardboard template of the space where I wanted to put the platform. Traced the outline of the template on the pieces of diamond plate and made the cuts with a oxy/propane torch. I also cut up the channel iron into the brackets I would use for supports. You can see the cut is a little rough, but what the ****. Borrowed use of a torch.

Braced the diamond plate using a bottle jack and piece of wood, lined up the brackets on the truck to where I approximately wanted them to go, used a sharpie to mark the location. Drilled holes (3/8") in the brackets using a vise and cordless drill (drill press would've been better, but didn't have one). Lined up the brackets to the diamond plate, using the predrilled bracket holes, and drilled holes in the plate. Painted everything with a primer+paint rattle can - I'll repaint it later, just wanted to cover all the exposed metal with something to protect it.

On the truck below the turn signal is a piece of channel iron whose sole goal as far as I can tell is to protect the wire that goes to the turn signal. This is what I put the biggest bracket against. I clamped the bracket to this piece on the truck and using the predrilled holes, drilled 4 into the channel iron, going through both sides. I bought 3.5" bolts to go through this channel and used plastic tubes cut to size for the bolts so they wouldn't rub against the wire that runs in the channel. I bolted everything using washers and nyloks (I've read studies that conclude lock washers actually contribute to loosen nuts in a vibration setting). For the diamond plate side I used nylon washers covered with steel washers. All the rest of the nuts I used were 1".

Once I had the biggest bracket and plate secured (on the right in pic), I propped the plate up using a bottle jack and piece of wood. If I leveled the diamond plate it wouldn't match the bumper because the bumper isn't level so I just kinda found a point I liked. Placed one of the other brackets against the bumper and using the predrilled holes drilled through the bumper. Once I got one hole done I put a bolt/nut on and that held it tight enough to do the other hole (it was getting crowded under the truck with the jack holding the plate up).

As for the ladder, it's a boat ladder that swivels and slides in it's own channel to stow. Found it on Amazon.
View attachment 731241
It's got 2 steps and covers about 2/3 of the distance to the ground. Before I installed the diamond plate I lined the disassembled the ladder bracket and lined it up on the plate, marked and drilled the holes (another great place for a drill press I don't have). I later counter sunk the holes on the diamond side as the screws would never sit right with the ridges.

Spent about $250 in materials. Haven't done the passenger side yet, will get to that later this summer (the diamond plate and brackets for that side are included in the material costs). I've done a dry fit on the passenger side already, I just have to drill all the holes and assemble. Spent a lot of time running around. A pro's job would've looked much better but also would've cost lots more.
Thank you SGM.
 

CMPPhil

Well-known member
536
376
63
Location
Temple, NH
Hi

Liked your photos, reminds me of the phrase "shade tree mechanic" in the very best sense when it was common for people to do their own mechanical work.

Cheers Phil
 

Tracer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,554
13,937
113
Location
Hawthorne, NV.
DSCF2031.jpg Finished installing a set of Lollipop lights, and sanitized the wiring for the turn signals and warning lights.
 
Last edited:

Menaces Nemesis

"Little Black Truck" Conservator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
333
262
63
Location
Denver, Colorado
Spread a big Harbor Freight moving blanket under the truck, and went on a good 'ol "loose fastener and air line leak quest". Found nothing in the way of loose nuts/bolts, but did find 2 little air leaks; 1 where the supply line comes into the air-pack, and another on the old-style air governor. The one on the air pack line went away with just a little snug-up. The 1-1/8" cap on the truck-right-side of the air governor leaked worse with a snug-up, so, bled the system and took the cap off to find a nice groove where the threads meet the hex head, perfect for placing an o-ring. Put an o-ring in there, and I'll be darned if that didn't fix it! (amazing what one finds, or finds missing, when working on a 50-year old vehicle).
 
Last edited:

ACAllen94

New member
6
0
0
Location
Murphy, NC
From a safety standpoint, you should have at least a 3/4inch peice of wood under the jackstand for stability. I've seen jackstands sink into the ground. Wheel bearings suck. I have to tackle all my axles.
I did, what you don’t see in the pictures is the gigantic bottle jack on a 6x12. I had it supporting the axle as well.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks