What did you do to your deuce this week?

[welldigger]

All DOT approved fittings have the inserts. Some are stainless steel and some are brass. The ones with plastic inserts are not DOT approved.
So you don't have the proper fittings installed.

They had been on the truck for 40 years. Mine isn't the only one I have seen that didn't have them either.

I did add the inserts when I redid the lines.

 

[Jeepsinker]

I'm talking about the inserts that go inside the tubing. I can't make the old ones work with air brake line at all. They are visibly larger than the ones that are to be used with air brake line.

 

[welldigger]

I'm talking about the inserts that go inside the tubing. I can't make the old ones work with air brake line at all. They are visibly larger than the ones that are to be used with air brake line.

Right. I used inserts from the hardware store. Worked fine for me. Doesn't seem to work every time though. I don't really have an answer as to why.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Oh, here by the way...

 

[JohnnyBM931A2]

Oh, here by the way...

Good times..

 

[welldigger]

Oh, here by the way...

Ouch. I know that one hurt.

 

[Clay James]

Took it to get building supplies and found out the ****ing air pack is making the brakes drag AGAIN.

 

[daytonatrbo]

Found this while looking for info on my alt/gen problem


http://news.prestolite.com/drupaldocs/AMA Parts List (defunct).pdf

 

[Jeepsinker]

Get under the truck and rap on the skidplate with a budd wrench or hammer, and tap on the air cylinder. Then bleed it at the air pack bleeder and remove the 1/8" plug at the rear of the air cylinder and apply pedal to blow it out. If you get just air, add some air tool oil and cycle the brakes a few times ( hard pedal pushes), if you get brake fluid out, time for a rebuild.

 

[Clay James]

It was doing this before and I rebuilt it and it's been fine for months, but it's doing it again now. It's the short style.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Is the vent cap on the air pack vent line free and clear of obstruction, and not crimped or mashed anywhere? It should be the one that comes up the firewall right by the breather box.

 

[rustystud]

Took it to get building supplies and found out the ****ing air pack is making the brakes drag AGAIN.

It could be the air regulator (on the air-pac) is sticking. When you rebuilt it last time did you install a new spring on the air pressure valve ? Also what kind of lubricant did you use ? Regular grease is a No No .

 

[rustystud]

They had been on the truck for 40 years. Mine isn't the only one I have seen that didn't have them either.

I did add the inserts when I redid the lines.

Just because it was installed wrong back then doesn't mean it is right. My son would always say "the other boys are doing it !" and I would say "it still is wrong" .

 

[mobileauto2000]

Took it to get building supplies and found out the ****ing air pack is making the brakes drag AGAIN.

Don't just assume its the air pack again. Check and make sure the master cylinder is completely returning. Mine would stop just short and hold pressure in the brakes before I rebuilt it.

 

[Clay James]

I used a silicone grease on it and did replace that spring. The master cylinder was new a few years ago and I rebuilt it and checked the free play when I was diagnosing this problem 6 months ago. It's doing the same exact thing so I'm guessing it's the air pack. Last time it was full of brake fluid on the air side. It might be doing it again because I noticed the brake fluid in the remote reservoir has slowly gone down by half. O ring might have gone bad. Time to tear into it.

 

[rustystud]

I used a silicone grease on it and did replace that spring. The master cylinder was new a few years ago and I rebuilt it and checked the free play when I was diagnosing this problem 6 months ago. It's doing the same exact thing so I'm guessing it's the air pack. Last time it was full of brake fluid on the air side. It might be doing it again because I noticed the brake fluid in the remote reservoir has slowly gone down by half. O ring might have gone bad. Time to tear into it.

When you rebuilt the air-pac last time, how was the cylinder bore ? Anything to catch a 'O' ring on ? Also did you replace that small flat washer seal in the rod assembly ? Also Mobileauto2000 has a good point about the master cylinder. The pushrod can get lodged in the side of the outer cup. There is a hole that it must fit into. Peashooter had this happen to him once.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Been working for the better part of a week now on issues with multiple vehicles here at the homestead.
Pinion seals, greasing, and packing hubs, and found one wheel cylinder that I didn't like so I changed it while I had the hub off.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Just finished installing my new seat base, with tabs welded on to support the four point harness that came with my seat, half of which has been laying on the floor under the seat uninstalled for over a year now. Got it all adjusted up and it sure feels much nicer than just the old lap belt.

 

[Another Ahab]

Just finished installing my new seat base, with tabs welded on to support the four point harness that came with my seat, half of which has been laying on the floor under the seat uninstalled for over a year now. Got it all adjusted up and it sure feels much nicer than just the old lap belt.

Are you talking the seat belt here; the conventional shoulder belt is a three-point harness, right?

So what kind of harness is the four-point, like some kind of criss-cross racing harness or something?

 

[Jeepsinker]

Yes, exactly. They came on MRAP seats.