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What did you do to your deuce this week?

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
A3 rim o-rings. I know it's been discussed and I have read many threads about the o-rings in A3 wheels. Vendors sell a 3/16" ring but I've read where the 1/4" ring is used too. I had some NOS 1/4" but found 8 of 10 have small cracks starting so I'm throwing them out and have ordered new in both the 1/4" and 3/16".

I cleaned the rim, painted and now looking to re-assemble and am looking for input on which to use. I put on the 1/4" and the rim will have to draw up an extra 1/16". That appears to really make a tight fit but is there such an issue of being "too tight"?
 

Wolfgang the Gray

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
318
36
28
Location
New River, AZ
Took the "new" Deuce out for an hour drive with my wife riding along for the first time. Ran great with no problems. I kept it below 2300rpm on the highway & made long & easy stops.

Here's a short video. My wife is learning our new Go Pro just as I'm learning the new truck. Give us time & things will look better.
https://youtu.be/4wJm4UYU3mc:driver:
 

whatadeuce

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
959
38
28
Location
Loxahatchee, Florida
Today I got an aluminum 600 gallon fuel tank formerly used used by the Forestry Department converting thier deuces to a brush trucks. I dont recognize the access fittings on this tank? How do I describe thwese connections, or must I convert them?
 

Attachments

Another Ahab

Well-known member
18,007
4,579
113
Location
Alexandria, VA

rustystud

Well-known member
9,298
3,072
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Today I got an aluminum 600 gallon fuel tank formerly used used by the Forestry Department converting thier deuces to a brush trucks. I dont recognize the access fittings on this tank? How do I describe thwese connections, or must I convert them?
The bottom one is a "Cam Lock" and the first one is actually where you put the sending unit for a fuel gauge. You put the gauge in that 3 tang hole with a large rubber gasket and twist it tight.
 

Valence

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,112
555
113
Location
Davis County, UT
Finally finished installing the "Dynamat" in the cab. I still plan on installing it on the underside of the hood along with some "DynaLiner" .
I can appreciate just how much work this is! Incredible. But you even did the floor and doors, all while installed! I had the luxury of doing the hard top while off the truck - which has got to be so much easier than what you just went through.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,298
3,072
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I can appreciate just how much work this is! Incredible. But you even did the floor and doors, all while installed! I had the luxury of doing the hard top while off the truck - which has got to be so much easier than what you just went through.
I should have done it when I installed the hard top last year but I couldn't afford it then. It was a pain, but it gave me something to do ! I did remove the seats to do the floor. I just installed them back on top of the liner. Then I would sit on the seats while I did the roof. The doors where tricky though.
 

brianp454

Member
572
11
18
Location
Portland, OR
I should have done it when I installed the hard top last year but I couldn't afford it then. It was a pain, but it gave me something to do ! I did remove the seats to do the floor. I just installed them back on top of the liner. Then I would sit on the seats while I did the roof. The doors where tricky though.
Rusty,
Yes, you do good work.
Would be nice to see it in person.
Will you make it to the Chehalis event this weekend?
-Brian
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
5,379
3,413
113
Location
Lexington, South Carolina
Today I got an aluminum 600 gallon fuel tank formerly used used by the Forestry Department converting thier deuces to a brush trucks. I dont recognize the access fittings on this tank? How do I describe thwese connections, or must I convert them?
You can get a 'correct' Clay and Bailey oval top from them (Kansas City if I remember correctly), but they are not cheap, $600-700 each. I own two of the tanks, replaced one of the tops, but not the other.
 

nchittendon

Active member
544
28
28
Location
La Crosse, Wisconsin
I had some 12' pine boards laying around, so I ripped them down to 3". I plan to use white oak on the troop seats themselves, but the other boards should be fine as pine, right? I never strap anything to the boards themselves, always around an upright. And I have the extra boards laying around, might as well use them.

13606738_10157304037745657_2182266593901146966_n.jpg
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
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Location
Alexandria, VA
I had some 12' pine boards laying around, so I ripped them down to 3". I plan to use white oak on the troop seats themselves, but the other boards should be fine as pine, right? I never strap anything to the boards themselves, always around an upright. And I have the extra boards laying around, might as well use them.
Likely white pine that you got there, and for interior conditions that stuff is plenty fine.

But white pine is a relatively "soft" wood (fast growing), and just doesn't hold up real well outdoors. But you can stain it, and that will help it last a little longer than usual.

But you have to expect to change it out often (once a year?), if you go with it. If you have plenty of it though (and it's np cost to you), well, why not!?
Others here will have some opinions that you can throw together with this one for your decision. Cheers! :beer:
 
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brianp454

Member
572
11
18
Location
Portland, OR
I did a brake light check this weekend and found my brake lights out again. About a year ago I replaced the switch as it was bad. Now it looks like the “new” switch is also bad. I’ll double check it this evening, yet I’m fairly sure it is bad as I checked the tail lights themselves. It made me wonder if I should bite the bullet and install the kit that uses a switch in the brake air feed rather than the high pressure hydraulic loop. There are old threads on it, but most of the links are broken and information is incomplete. Erik’s has the kit, but I haven’t found the TM that gives instructions for hooking it up to the new, short air pack (which I have). Do any of you know which TM covers this? Or is there a special TM I’m not aware of that only covers the switch upgrade?
IMG_3522[1].jpg
The troop seats in my truck could use some TLC as several have the bolt holes broken. I recall someone was going to share CAD models of the different boards, but do not know if it ever happened. Does anyone know of CAD models? I have no idea what type of wood to use as it is not my area of expertise.


I had some 12' pine boards laying around, so I ripped them down to 3". I plan to use white oak on the troop seats themselves, but the other boards should be fine as pine, right? I never strap anything to the boards themselves, always around an upright. And I have the extra boards laying around, might as well use them.
 

nchittendon

Active member
544
28
28
Location
La Crosse, Wisconsin
If you have plenty of it though (and it's np cost to you), well, why not!?:beer:
That was the thought. I've got the boards and no other use for them, might as well use them up. This first time around replacing all the hardware is the hard part anyways. Having to grind or cut most of the old bolts off. New stainless hardware with locknuts is going back on her.
 

nchittendon

Active member
544
28
28
Location
La Crosse, Wisconsin
The troop seats in my truck could use some TLC as several have the bolt holes broken. I recall someone was going to share CAD models of the different boards, but do not know if it ever happened. Does anyone know of CAD models? I have no idea what type of wood to use as it is not my area of expertise.
Cad models would be awesome! I haven't found anything like that either in my travels around SS.

Some guys use the 5" boards. Some have used the manufactured boards (decking) in the hopes that it won't weather like real wood. I have 12 foot, 9 x 1 boards here but they are pine. Not strong enough for people to be bouncing around on back there, but in my opinion strong enough for the other boards on the racks. That, and they aren't costing me anything to use. That's a big one.

I believe the "proper" replacement is White Oak boards. 1x3 if I measured right. Your choice whether you stain them, or paint them. Either way, I imagine they should be sealed up. Wood is not my "cup of tea" either. I'm an engine guy. I can't build anything out of wood to save my butt. This should be pretty easy though....right? haha
 
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