Wow! I've seen pictures of bare shop van interiors, but I've never seen one fitted out like that before. That is darn cool. Be rather tough to get it under highway overpasses around here though. Thanks for the pictures. Just one more thing to fantasize about.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What did you do to your deuce this week?
- Thread starter Seth_O
- Start date
benhasajeep
Member
- 39
- 4
- 8
- Location
- Eddington Maine
Just trouble shot the horn for not working. Had the Deuce for over a year now and just now getting to it. I shot the wires and they checked good to the solenoid. I had previously ordered a surplus solenoid (used tested). Slaved it in and finally got the air to flow. So, at the same time removed the stock horns and installed a Wolo "The Chief" air horn. The Duece is a former Forestry Fire Truck conversion. So figured the "Chief" horn was appropriate. Wife loves it. But now ran into a problem with the horn going off on it's own when turning left. Guessing need to run a new wire down the steering column.
- 3,256
- 3,354
- 113
- Location
- NORTH (Canada)
Yes, you probably have a chafed wire that shorts to ground when it should not!
I had the horn problem resulting from my bobbed Deuce having power steering installed. The modifications made the steering column contact box almost impossible to work on. So, I ran a hotwire from the power switch to a horn button I installed on the dash. Kind of a dumb way to do it, but I don't use my horn much at all anyway. Also, the steering wheel horn button kit did not want to work on my non-stock Deuce steering wheel.
- 3,256
- 3,354
- 113
- Location
- NORTH (Canada)
Tie the replacement horn wire to the defective wire, at the bottom of the steering column and pull the new one through with the old. There should be a conical rubber plug at the bottom, where the wire exits. Make sure that plug is there to prevent chafing and a horn that goes off randomly.
It saves time and hassle to pull the new with the old, compared to trying to "fish" a new wire through. That can quickly deteriorate to the point where 3 beers are needed.
It saves time and hassle to pull the new with the old, compared to trying to "fish" a new wire through. That can quickly deteriorate to the point where 3 beers are needed.
Bent fender
New member
- 2
- 1
- 3
- Location
- Daytona Beach
I removed my Hydraulic head to address a no start condition. Under the gear is a rubber washer that is torn. I don't think it should be rubber.
need help in finding out what should be there or finding the correct replacement washer. Trucks not running, Big show in Daytona this week end and trying to get it fired up.
need help in finding out what should be there or finding the correct replacement washer. Trucks not running, Big show in Daytona this week end and trying to get it fired up.
- 6,555
- 13,939
- 113
- Location
- Hawthorne, NV.
Dipstick & benhasajeep, try TM 9-2320-361-24P, Group 06, Electrical System, Page 48. All the horn parts are there.
Last edited:
I motion we skip the horn wire and go directly to the beer. All those in favor say "aye".
- 6,555
- 13,939
- 113
- Location
- Hawthorne, NV.
Got everyone mixed up. The TM is for benhasajeep.
Well....I got a step closer today. I welded my new battery support together.
The first pic is a fuzzy photo of my attempt at a stack of dimes. Only two or three of the welds came out like that. The second pic is the welded support in Brutus. The third pic is of my high tech driveway welding table. Boy, were my old knees barking after that. I also set a record for me. Only six trips to the basement! More or less.
Welcome to Steel Soldiers! There are a lot of really knowledgeable, helpful members here that can help you out. I'm not one of them. I've never messed with my hydraulic head. Many others have though. Try searching here for a related post. And we love pictures! It helps us to figure out what your doing or need.
- 849
- 1,740
- 93
- Location
- N. Central Idaho
Slowly getting there. RH jam weld repair done...mostly. This is the second time I welded on it. Not happy with the first as it was my first attempt to weld with a MIG. So I cut it out and re did.
Attachments
- 3,256
- 3,354
- 113
- Location
- NORTH (Canada)
Are you saying the O-ring at the bottom of the exterior part of the HH is broken? Do not fret. replacements are available, preferrably of the VITON kind. you should have three O rings to replace. They are sizes "2-230" , "2-227" and ".013" . All are "Nitrile" or VITON.
Here is a thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/removing-rebuilding-reinstalling-hydraulic-head.69241/
Here is another: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/injection-pump-o-ring-replacement.163029/
- 7,716
- 19,766
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
.
Owen,
Those are some pretty good welds. No bubblegum...
I think you "done good".
That battery welding box looks nice.
A very informative post for me ldmack3. My truck needs help in the exact same area. I bet many Deuces do. Mine was bondoed. I would like to know what size wire you used. Were you welding with or without gas? What were the approximate settings on your MIG? Did you repeatedly tack it or drag the weld? Sheetmetal burns through so easily.
Thanks Tim! I think it was the short 1/4" stick out I used. Keeps the arc in the shield gas better. I use the lightest shade possible and when the sun went behind the clouds I noticed I couldn't see anything but the arc. Then the sun would come out for a couple of seconds and I could see the edges of the surfaces I wanted to weld again. I've always had that problem. No blow throughs at all. The amazing thing is that there was no slag. It only took a light wire brushing to clean the weld. It was the best I've done yet. Maybe I'll get better with practice.
- 7,716
- 19,766
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
.
Dang Right!!
My welding is almost as much as by sound as sight. I have to see what it going on, but the sound - how much crackling or lack of - is how I do what I do. With a stick welder, sometimes a half stick give better control too.
Again, it DEFINITELY looks good to me!
- 849
- 1,740
- 93
- Location
- N. Central Idaho
Mine had fist size blobs of bondo behind the metal with tons of paint over it. Mine is a flux core MIG, no gas. Used .030. I hear .025 is better for sheet metal but I can't find that size that is flux core. I've got a Forney 140FC Easy weld and used 4/4 or 3/4 on the setting. Just quick spot, less that one second, over and over. Biggest thing I learned is to keep the gap between pieces to an absolute minimum. Any gap made it much harder to weld and caused burn through. Also don't be shy about cutting it out. I didn't go aft far enough and will have add another piece. Even with a heat sink I blew a hole and realized there was more.
- 849
- 1,740
- 93
- Location
- N. Central Idaho
P1 - Starting out
P2 is bottom of RH door.
P3 is fender off - had to cut off a bolt as the rust had them welded together
P4 Opened up before adding the 3rd cage not.
P2 is bottom of RH door.
P3 is fender off - had to cut off a bolt as the rust had them welded together
P4 Opened up before adding the 3rd cage not.
Attachments
Wow! Your experience is so similar to mine. I also use .030 flux core. I welded my battery support on 5/5 low setting. I'm sure my rockers are in the exact same condition as yours even though my Brutus is an '84. You are absolutely right about metal gaps. I cut out a section of my front driver's side floor under the clutch pedal. I cut it out way bigger than I had to. I'm still not finished with it. I had some huge gaps even though I was careful cutting out the metal. I had to order the sheet metal online, because none of the local places had the correct gauge. Heck, they just about never restock their metals anyway. The gaps do make for blowholes for sure. I'm going to examine your photos very carefully to see what I can learn from them. I appreciate your going to all the effort. It is in the very best tradition of the Steel Soldiers. I salute you ldmack3!!!