computer54
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Am trying too and I only want what I payed for it too.
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What did you do to your trailer today.
- Thread starter Floridianson
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After the run the Ga. rally the hubs were running hot. I am checking preload and topping off with Lucas hub oil on the M372A2.
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What about calling Memphis Equipment and asking about trading it for/towards a M101A2?
A SS member was just there and posted some pics from the visit in another forum section.
There were several M101 series in their sale lot.
Worth a try
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Looks like a new hub behind the wheel with the obviously new lugs.
I’ve never used Lucas Hub oil before.
computer54
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Same here does it work
gottaluvit
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Hauled 2700 lbs. with an M1102. It didn't even lower but maybe two inches with the weight. The trailer followed behind nicely and braked very well too.
I'm taking apart the brake MC and lunette ring on my M1101 and will make an attempt to photograph it if anyone wants to see the inside. If that is already done, please give a reference. Not sure why, but I was expecting a shock absorber. I see there are springs but until the forged, lunette ring piece is out, don't understand the break away.
computer54
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Yes I want to see and thank you
Started the fab up on my hydraulic jacks for my trailer tounge and the lifting setup on the rear ramps on my M322
I also did some measuring for maybe adding a pusher axle to take away some of the tounge weight. It has 1800lbs empty of tounge weight plus a long deck in front of the tires doesn't help.
I also did some measuring for maybe adding a pusher axle to take away some of the tounge weight. It has 1800lbs empty of tounge weight plus a long deck in front of the tires doesn't help.
Rmtaunton
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Are you going to do a wet kit off the truck or pony motor
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I have this 24v hydraulic unit i got from swamp. Should be enough to do both.
As far as that winch i have im looking at a pto for a hemtt transfer case for that when i do that install.
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NormB
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Reassembled surge brake on M1102, replaced rivets holding fuel can bracket with - TA-DA! - rivnuts (what else?). WAS going to fill and bleed system but it was starting to rain and it was nearing dinner time.
Yesterday I replaced four of the frame-mounted nuts for the cover/bow/bracket bolts which came loose during disassembly with - yep, more rivnuts of the 3/8-16 variety, with judicious application of J-B weld quick-setting steel epoxy. Same stuff I use for bedding rifle barrels. Waiting to hear back from a guy about sand-blasting and powder-coating the brackets. Already sanded/refinished the bows, got some steel rivets in yesterday to hold the turn locks in place.
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Why did you disassemble it?
Any pics of the inside parts?
Any pics of the inside parts?
NormB
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Sorry, no inside pics, but the instructions in the manual for reassembly coudn’t be clearer.
I like knowing what’s inside stuff, and judging from how corroded the shafts on the shocks were, I figured the internal damper might also be t*ts up. It was. I think it was frozen in place. I couldn’t push it in at all. Since I want to keep this around a few years, I just decided to disassemble, replace/refinish/lube where appropriate. It had the wrong size roller in it, too, and it was frozen to the top crossbolt. Got parts from eTrailer.com (the two tapered rollers in the rear were okay so I kept them), tractor supply (the safety chain and #8 hardware). Got some yellow zinc plated carabiners off ePay for the safety chain connections. The drawbar had some corrosion on it I treated with some phosphoric acid (naval jelly) then primed and hit with some flat black.
I checked the wheel bearings a couple weeks ago, they’re okay, but I’m going to disassemble each wheel soon to make sure there’s not some part on the verge of failure inside.
I think it’ll hold up for a while.
I have my 1101 actuator almost entirely apart and will take pictures of the inside tomorrow. I didn't realize the shock was so small....yep one there. I'm having a hard time seeing what prevents it from seizing up when backing or even a place to put a bolt that locks it out.
NormB can you tell me what keeps it from applying the brakes while backing...it's not the two springs, they give the cylinder some ability to take a hard stop, but wouldn't prevent the brakes from applying when backing. Am I missing something?
NormB can you tell me what keeps it from applying the brakes while backing...it's not the two springs, they give the cylinder some ability to take a hard stop, but wouldn't prevent the brakes from applying when backing. Am I missing something?
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Dexter makes a brake assembly called FreeBack.
Surge assembly is the same.
Brake backing plates have extra parts to prevent them from engaging when backing up.
Maybe the M1101 has these installed?
Don’t own one so I’m not sure.
Dexter makes a lot of trailer/axle/brake parts for the military.
Surge assembly is the same.
Brake backing plates have extra parts to prevent them from engaging when backing up.
Maybe the M1101 has these installed?
Don’t own one so I’m not sure.
Dexter makes a lot of trailer/axle/brake parts for the military.
Aussie Bloke
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G'day everyone,.....
I have a quick question, What is the height of the M105A2 with a CBC hardtop?
I've just spent the last hour looking through the search function and a CBC isn't mentioned in the TM for the M105's of which I have a copy on file.
I know the dimensions for the M105A2 will all be the same except height.
Aussie.
I have a quick question, What is the height of the M105A2 with a CBC hardtop?
I've just spent the last hour looking through the search function and a CBC isn't mentioned in the TM for the M105's of which I have a copy on file.
I know the dimensions for the M105A2 will all be the same except height.
Aussie.
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NormB
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From the manufacturer's website: http://www.silvereaglemfg.com/military/cargo_trailer_ltt-l.shtml
The freebacking system's built into the M1101/1102 trailers already. I THINK it's in the design of the leading-trailing shoes and some mechanical disconnect inside the hub's braking components, not in the surge brake portion.
It would be very easy to drill, say, a 3/8 or 1/2" hole for a hardened steel pin to run through the cast housing into the lunette shaft, but it looks like it's unnecessary.
NB
Yep...."free backing" the literature says.
The shock inside would be in the way to prevent simply drilling a hole but if the front pin were changed for a longer bolt, there could be an exterior block made that would keep the shaft from going into the housing.
I got off lucky. While I had some rusty crud inside, the shock was still in very good condition and simply cleaning, paint and lube will make mine good as new.
NormB
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There's room at the back, on top. The inertia damper (shock) slot for the cross-bolt/pin stops short of the rear of the cast housing by about two inches. Simple 3/8" hole and a 1" pin would stop movement, but again, according to the mfr, it's not needed.
It's reassuring knowing what's inside, how it's assembled, what a bear it is to disassemble/reassemble, and that you're starting out with relatively new/refurbished equipment.
The time invested might save a life someday. Even your own.