What did you do to your trailer today.

[tobyS]

There's room at the back, on top. The inertia damper (shock) slot for the cross-bolt/pin stops short of the rear of the cast housing by about two inches. Simple 3/8" hole and a 1" pin would stop movement, but again, according to the mfr, it's not needed.

It's reassuring knowing what's inside, how it's assembled, what a bear it is to disassemble/reassemble, and that you're starting out with relatively new/refurbished equipment.

The time invested might save a life someday. Even your own.

Yes, I see what you are saying....it's tight but there is a place that a pin would fit and prevent the arm from going back. While I'm working on mine, I'm going to add the holes for a 1/2" thru pin. I'm trying to take some pictures but having battery issues.

 

[Rmtaunton]

Lots of civi trailers have an electric line lock connected to the reverse lights , it stops the fluid transfer and could be hooked to a simple switch there available at northern tool


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[Mainsail]

Wait, what am I missing here? If the trailer is already free-backing, why are we discussing drilling holes or installing switches?

 

[tobyS]

I may use mine on an M105 frame/axle...not sure yet....more likely will be extending the tongue and using this one with the hitch modified for my 2 5/16" ball (can change to lunette ring). While I trust "free backing" in general, I have not studied it to understand it's workings. I want to have the possibility of making the brake unit rigid, mechanically locked.

While going through the surge brakes available at etrailer, I noticed no backup lockout, mechanical backup (which I believe is a pin) and electric. I didn't know the electric was acting on the brake line, closing a valve. Sure, I see how connecting to back-up lights would actuate the electric backup.

 

[tobyS]

Here is an overview of the parts of my 1101 surge brake. My camera has given up and I'm learning how to use this IPad. After I get some paint, there will be some while assemblling.

 

[tobyS]

Norm, See the bracket that the cylinder and spring attaches to? Mine is bent, not straight across. Do you recall if yours was straight?

 

[NormB]

Norm, See the bracket that the cylinder and spring attaches to? Mine is bent, not straight across. Do you recall if yours was straight?

Um, yeah. mine was perfectly flat, straight. I stripped some paint overspray off it and used it again no problem. I think you could easily straighten yours out in a vise with a 2" deadblow hammer. Not sure how it got bent, considering how it's mounted to the master cylinder and springs.

 

[NormB]

Here is an overview of the parts of my 1101 surge brake. My camera has given up and I'm learning how to use this IPad. After I get some paint, there will be some while assemblling.

The actuator bar - thing on the rubber seal from the master cylinder - is supposed to be flat.

Looks like someone overbraked, overloaded, otherwise abused the heck out of the hardware. just remove the pin and flip it around (I THINK it's a peened, not welded, fit).

 

[gottaluvit]

On the three M1101/1102s I have not had a brake locking issue while backing. Now for the M101A2, well that was interesting trying to back up with a load. I didn't know of the pin at the time and was very confused as to what the heck was happening.

 

[tobyS]

Here is the back side of m1101 surge brake coming together. I'm ordering parts to replace the lunette ring with adjustable 2 5/16"ball. Cutting the ring off is next. Fun!

 

[86m1028]

Here is the back side of m1101 surge brake coming together. I'm ordering parts to replace the lunette ring with adjustable 2 5/16"ball. Cutting the ring off is next. Fun!

Following this. Considering doing the same or completely doing away with the surge brakes.

 

[tobyS]

Two 4 1/2" cut off wheels and a hack saw blade + sore arm. Now have to wait on adjustable channel and coupling.

 

[tobyS]

1101 surge brake

Here is the location of a 3/8 lockout bolt I installed.

sorry so many posts, I don,t have saving photo's down on this Ipad to post all together.

 

[tobyS]

Here is the hitch brake unit for my M1101 back together after adding the 2 5/16" ball and lock out pin.

 

[Floridianson]

One Gallon of WD40 and the Wagner electric power paint sprayer and wet the whole trailer. Does make a difference and gets rid of that chalky look.

 

[Tinstar]

Croft sells a ring adapter.

https://www.crofttrailer.com/h3la2-1-2-croft-ring-to-coupler-adapter/

Better than cutting it off.

 

[Tinstar]

One Gallon of WD40 and the Wagner electric power paint sprayer and wet the whole trailer. Does make a difference and gets rid of that chalky look.

Looks good.
How long will it last before it wears off?

 

[NormB]

I changed the rubber/rear brake hoses. ALMOST bought new lines, I was having such a hard time getting the 3/8” fittings loose. I took a MAPP gas torch to ‘em for ten seconds or so. Came loose right away. Hoses were cracked, several coats of paint on them. Steel lines are actually in very good shape.

Now to figure out why the breakaway lever cams OVER the plunger plate when I’m testing it/trying to bleed the wheel cylinders. Might need to use the old one or weld a 1/4” nub onto the end of the new one I got from etrailer.

I’m thinking the parts for the Titan model 6 are CLOSE to, but not EXACTLY the same as the MILSPEC unit but so far so good.

 

[Floridianson]

Looks good.
How long will it last before it wears off?

Don't know but guess we will find out. From what I see my trailer has been painted twice and I don't know how well they prep it the second time. I figure this paint /WD40 will be good enough to see me in the grave. If I ever thought about painting the trailer I would have to get down to the first coat of paint and prep it well then epoxy primer the whole thing then paint. Way to much work for me these days.

 

[Mainsail]

Drove up to Ikea again. The trailer means I don't have to own a pickup truck.