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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,118
9,355
113
Location
Mason, TN
Replaced my steering shaft U joints they had some play. Replaced both of my power steering hoses return was leaking and the cover on the pressure line was falling off and just hard. -8 size fittings on the pressure side. One Straight One 90 degree. 2 feet of 1/2" hydraulic line for the return. Modified my air box to allow more direct flow with the ducting on the 8inch inlet. According to a CFM calculator at 60mph the 8" circular inlet is producing nearly 7400cfm's. A 5 inch circular inlet such as the throttle body can handle around 2800cfm's at 60mph. I am using the Wix 46664 filter which is around 900cfm capable. I am looking for a better alternative.

I also upgraded my driveshafts. I will get these in stalled with my bogie swap.
 

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Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
6
38
Location
Edenton, NC
Replaced my steering shaft U joints they had some play. Replaced both of my power steering hoses return was leaking and the cover on the pressure line was falling off and just hard. -8 size fittings on the pressure side. One Straight One 90 degree. 2 feet of 1/2" hydraulic line for the return. Modified my air box to allow more direct flow with the ducting on the 8inch inlet. According to a CFM calculator at 60mph the 8" circular inlet is producing nearly 7400cfm's. A 5 inch circular inlet such as the throttle body can handle around 2800cfm's at 60mph. I am using the Wix 46664 filter which is around 900cfm capable. I am looking for a better alternative.

I also upgraded my driveshafts. I will get these in stalled with my bogie swap.
Those drive shafts look purdy, what we're they upgraded to and why?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,118
9,355
113
Location
Mason, TN
Those drive shafts look purdy, what we're they upgraded to and why?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Slip yokes are made to handle vibration better and protect again intrusion of foreign debris. They are mostly used for ag use. I got each rear shaft for around 160$. Well worth it. Just got asked if i wanted two to try out and use by a friend at the machine shop.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
 

Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
6
38
Location
Edenton, NC
Slip yokes are made to handle vibration better and protect again intrusion of foreign debris. They are mostly used for ag use. I got each rear shaft for around 160$. Well worth it. Just got asked if i wanted two to try out and use by a friend at the machine shop.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
Good deal, but I'm confused. We see slip yokes of one type or another on every rear wheel vehicle that comes in the shop. I belive there's at least one in my 923, in the transfer to intermediate axle drive shaft.

There's not one in the jack shafts?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,118
9,355
113
Location
Mason, TN
Good deal, but I'm confused. We see slip yokes of one type or another on every rear wheel vehicle that comes in the shop. I belive there's at least one in my 923, in the transfer to intermediate axle drive shaft.

There's not one in the jack shafts?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
The jackshaft basically is a slip yoke itself. It is not long enough and it does slip in and out. Your front axle has one as well on the shaft from the front axle to the center shaft bearing/Joint. I think even the rear rear axle has one as well.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,288
1,773
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Installed new Delco-Remy 33si 100A alternator a few days ago.
(Thank you 74M35A2)
New Gates Green Belt

Rebuilt the Power Control Box (thanks to old SS threads for the how to/part#s).
Installed new ABS module (another great SS member).
Not the easiest thing to get to.

Original alternator fried them both when it went south.
Now battery's are much much happier.
Wish I upgraded alternators when trucks acquired.

Installed new air dryer with the Haldex Air Purest upgrade.

Installed Military LED dash light upgrade kit.
No more melted/swollen plastic.


Just enjoyed driving it.
 

big block 88

Member
862
17
18
Location
Topeka/Kansas
Gonna start it and let it run for a couple hours check fluid and maybe get it out on the road for a short trip

on a side note. Does anyone know when they started going to the super single goodyear at2? I ask because i looked at a build date on the tire and it doesnt seem possible to be that old.
 

big block 88

Member
862
17
18
Location
Topeka/Kansas
I have a couple that either say 87 or 07 its hard to read at this point. I work at the plant that builds that tire and there is an old timer there i need to talk to who builds the molds he i guess remembers all the codes for the last several decades lol.
 

8madjack

Active member
416
78
28
Location
Gold country Ca.
Been going through this thread and following some of the links to other threads, for example, one of my tanks the guage doesnt register. I found a thread and realised the tankscreen is removable. It was too tight for a strap wrench, I used a large C clamp to loosten it and went from there. 2017-01-01 20.59.24.jpg the float wasn't :? I tarped it as rain and snow are forcast. 2017-01-01 20.59.56.jpg 2017-01-01 21.00.43.jpg
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Been going through this thread and following some of the links to other threads, for example, one of my tanks the guage doesnt register. I found a thread and realised the tankscreen is removable. It was too tight for a strap wrench, I used a large C clamp to loosten it and went from there. View attachment 660484 the float wasn't :? I tarped it as rain and snow are forcast. View attachment 660485 View attachment 660486
Take that diamond plate from above the tank and you will see the float assembly where the wire connects. It has screws around it's perimeter (approx. 3" round) and then you can carefully wriggle it out of there. Mine had brass floats and both were deteriorated and crushed. The screws were a real joy to remove.
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Road tested mine yesterday checking the new speedometer I installed last week (which didn't remedy it). Following the TM, I changed it first with a "known working unit". So the cable must be the issue. I did previously put a drill on the lower end of the cable with my cell phone on video to see if the speedometer moved and it didn't, so I knew it was the speedometer or the cable. My error was in not disconnecting the cable from the speedometer and putting the cell phone on the upper cable end to see if the cable itself spun with the drill. Followed that TM too close and threw common sense aside, and now I wasted $40, but at least I have a spare speedometer. Then one of my brakes was stuck. I hadn't moved the truck for two weeks after pressure washing it. It was a little tricky with a M1082 behind it that I just disconnected leaving me only the forward direction to go. I just drug that axle forward until I had space to give it a little space for a reverse motion which broke it loose. It was 43°F so not like it was from ice. Probably just some rust holding the shoe to the drum. Funny how 8madjack recently just mentioned having this issue. Must be common.
 
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simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,118
9,355
113
Location
Mason, TN
Road tested mine yesterday checking the new speedometer I installed last week (which didn't remedy it). Following the TM, I changed it first with a "known working unit". So the cable must be the issue. I did previously put a drill on the lower end of the cable with my cell phone on video to see if the speedometer moved and it didn't, so I knew it was the speedometer or the cable. My error was in not disconnecting the cable from the speedometer and putting the cell phone on the upper cable end to see if the cable itself spun with the drill. Followed that TM too close and threw common sense aside, and now I wasted $40, but at least I have a spare speedometer. Then one of my brakes was stuck. I hadn't moved the truck for two weeks after pressure washing it. It was a little tricky with a M1082 behind it that I just disconnected leaving me only the forward direction to go. I just drug that axle forward until I had space to give it a little space for a reverse motion which broke it loose. It was 43°F so not like it was from ice. Probably just some rust holding the shoe to the drum. Funny how 8madjack recently just mentioned having this issue. Must be common.
Always handy to have a sledge hammer do you can smack the axle flange or the tire

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
 
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