Jeepsinker
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So what was in place of that heater before? Was it just a cover plate there?
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your 5 ton this week?
- Thread starter dezert ratt
- Start date
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- Gray, GA
Yes, a blank plate that looked just like that one, except without the element welded in.
Jeepsinker
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- Dry Creek, Louisiana
Well that is pretty convenient. My wrecker doesn't need one but I have been pondering installing one on the deuce since it is my dd, I had just forgotten I was in the 5 ton forum when I asked.
RAYZER
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I was looking on ebay and found a double filter mount.
Seems like this would work the best.
Seems like this would work the best.
RAYZER
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Miss directed post somehow!
cx65083
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RoadKill.....It's whats for supper!
Hit a deer with my little truck. Used the tire crane on my Big truck to dress it out. He was just a lil nubber. We ate the tenders and the heart that night. Mmmmmmm.
Hit a deer with my little truck. Used the tire crane on my Big truck to dress it out. He was just a lil nubber. We ate the tenders and the heart that night. Mmmmmmm.
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Amer-team
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Replaced the windshield wipers. NAPA is having a sale right now on the 14" 60-1450 blades. Don't lose the tapered piece on the shaft that the wiper arm slides on. It is a pain to find another one of those, but if you need to, the ANCO part number is 51-14 and there are two options and you are looking for the smaller shaft size with the double flat shaft. I ended up finding that part at the local big truck parts shop. The regular auto parts stores were not able to help. They could tell me the part number, but were unable to find the part.
Ford Mechanic
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The heart really? Never tried that. ....
- 1,450
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- Gray, GA
I picked up a jack shaft from Wreckerman last week (Thanks Buddy!) and got a chance to install it this week. Mine was shot but I didn't realize how shot until I got to see one that was in good condition. It wasn't until I got the old one out that I realized that it was not long before it would've failed completely. When I got the truck, the shaft was bone dry and rusty and the spline seal was cracked and no longer touching the inner shaft. I had run about 2 tubes of grease through it to clean it out but the damage had already been done.
The saving grace here is that both U-joints were new with crystal blue grease in them. So I replaced the shaft and reused my U-joints. Apparently the U-joints had been replaced but the shaft was left alone. While under there, I checked the rest of the drive line and found that ALL the U-joints had been replaced and the rest of the shafts in the driveline where fine.
Pictures of the new one...
A couple of notes for others...
The old shaft was a pain to get out. The old grease in the bottom of the hollow shaft didn't want to let me compress the shaft all the way. Much prying, banging and the excessive use of choice words were necessary. It will come out though if compressed all the way. Trans and transfer case in neutral will allow you to position it however you need.
The replacement shaft had the same problem with the old grease. I pulled it apart and cleaned it spotless. Be careful with the spline seal here. The splines must spread the seal in order to remove the inner shaft. Some grease on the splines and seal and a blunt pick helped manipulate the seal during removal and assembly. Do not refill with grease until after you get it installed. You'll lose it when you compress it for installation and have to add more anyways. It is a good time to grease the U-joints though since they are easily accessible.
The old shaft was installed with the spline seal facing the transmission or front of the truck. I installed the replacement with it facing the transfer case or the rear of the truck. I can only see this helping keep dirt, dust and road spray out of the seal with it facing the rear. I honestly don't know which way it was from the factory since it had been removed before. I don't see any reason it can't be run either way though. This little shaft needs all the help it can get. It's the only shaft that sees the brunt of all the torque whether in 6x6 or not. There is no torsional relief to dissipated any shock loading because it's so short.
After replacement, all the clunking during direction changes and downshifts is gone. All the drive line vibrations are gone now too.
The saving grace here is that both U-joints were new with crystal blue grease in them. So I replaced the shaft and reused my U-joints. Apparently the U-joints had been replaced but the shaft was left alone. While under there, I checked the rest of the drive line and found that ALL the U-joints had been replaced and the rest of the shafts in the driveline where fine.
Pictures of the new one...
A couple of notes for others...
The old shaft was a pain to get out. The old grease in the bottom of the hollow shaft didn't want to let me compress the shaft all the way. Much prying, banging and the excessive use of choice words were necessary. It will come out though if compressed all the way. Trans and transfer case in neutral will allow you to position it however you need.
The replacement shaft had the same problem with the old grease. I pulled it apart and cleaned it spotless. Be careful with the spline seal here. The splines must spread the seal in order to remove the inner shaft. Some grease on the splines and seal and a blunt pick helped manipulate the seal during removal and assembly. Do not refill with grease until after you get it installed. You'll lose it when you compress it for installation and have to add more anyways. It is a good time to grease the U-joints though since they are easily accessible.
The old shaft was installed with the spline seal facing the transmission or front of the truck. I installed the replacement with it facing the transfer case or the rear of the truck. I can only see this helping keep dirt, dust and road spray out of the seal with it facing the rear. I honestly don't know which way it was from the factory since it had been removed before. I don't see any reason it can't be run either way though. This little shaft needs all the help it can get. It's the only shaft that sees the brunt of all the torque whether in 6x6 or not. There is no torsional relief to dissipated any shock loading because it's so short.
After replacement, all the clunking during direction changes and downshifts is gone. All the drive line vibrations are gone now too.
- 7,409
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Put in the Bostrom air ride and a springer seat in. Had to have a glove box and cooler. I got the steel to make up the battery hold down today. Need a new inspection cover for the floor board. I only brought to the battery box the one 12 volt line. The outher two wires that were in the upper battery box were a small ground and a small 24 volt lead. I chose to just pick up the ground and 24 volt off the starter. In the pic you can see the two disconnects just under the cab for the ground and 24 volt. Saw no reason to run them all the way to the new battery box as they were just connected to the end of the power cables.
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I put in a Haldex Air Dryer from Those Military Guys, and flipped the lunette on my newly acquired M105 to 5 ton height. The trailer work was much more difficult than the air dryer.
Took it out for a little test drive and exercised my transfer case and front axle since I haven't ever used them in anger.
Took it out for a little test drive and exercised my transfer case and front axle since I haven't ever used them in anger.
Got any video of that ?
brasco
Member
- 189
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- 16
- Location
- Southeast of Indianapolis, In
I repaired the CTIS air Valve (Pneumatic Control Unit) on my M931A2. The controller was showing a "no lights" error. When I looked up the error it indicated a bad coil on the pneumatic unit and, sure enough, it was bad. I found a new one online - not a perfect match at 85 ohms resistance - but it worked!
srodocker
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Replacing a service diaphragm now to replace the rest. And maybe replace the little valve behind the bumper about a 1'
infidel got me
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- Newberry, Florida
View attachment 528776View attachment 528777View attachment 528778View attachment 528779
Here are a few of my bed removed.Lifted it off with bottle air jack on top of rear tires.Welded stands in place while lifted,lowered onto stands,then pulled truck out.I plan on bobbing truck while its cooler out.Started on my air ride seat in fourth pic.Will send more pictures of next weekends progress.
Here are a few of my bed removed.Lifted it off with bottle air jack on top of rear tires.Welded stands in place while lifted,lowered onto stands,then pulled truck out.I plan on bobbing truck while its cooler out.Started on my air ride seat in fourth pic.Will send more pictures of next weekends progress.
ke5eua
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Depending on how far off it is you can always tie in a resistor to match the required resistance.
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Put her too work.
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infidel got me
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- Newberry, Florida
Started prepping for paint today.My truck must have been painted with a mop and stucco gun.
I knew it was a little rough,but you just don't know till you start sanding.
Made a lot of progress,but ran out of daylight.
I hope to be layin the paint to her tomorrow,will take pics as I go.
I knew it was a little rough,but you just don't know till you start sanding.
Made a lot of progress,but ran out of daylight.
I hope to be layin the paint to her tomorrow,will take pics as I go.
M35A2 KAISER
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- WICHITA/KANSAS
Removed the broken flexplate from our 931 with a NHC250.
ke5eua
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Went to start the 818 this morning to bring the 750 to the storage yard.
Got some nice white smoke out the exhaust before the batteries died.
At least I know my electric primer is working.
Got some nice white smoke out the exhaust before the batteries died.
At least I know my electric primer is working.