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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,030
113
Location
London England
Actually, I fitted Fahrenheit ones, I like more movement of the needle, and I like that they are more accurate. I boiled them, and they Spot on absolutely. The lights in them are in holders with the bulbs Inside the clocks. Great illumination. The one in the M62 Wrecker is ACE!..it has a preset knob which allows adjustment of when the internal 'switch contact' is either, on..goes off, or is off ..and goes on at the pre set temperature. I have it set off, and it is wired to the low air warning, so that when things get near too hot..(NOT too hot!) the buzzer let's me know all about it. That one I bought in California when I was living there years (and years) ago.
The other two, well, One is a Willys ww11 clock! and the other is out of a scrapped E.R.F. I think. Old but good. (hmm, rather like ..me!).
I will take pictures tomorrow for you.
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,030
113
Location
London England
Actually, I fitted Fahrenheit ones, I like more movement of the needle, and I like that they are more accurate. I boiled them, and they Spot on absolutely. The lights in them are in holders with the bulbs Inside the clocks. Great illumination. The one in the M62 Wrecker is ACE!..it has a preset knob which allows adjustment of when the internal 'switch contact' is either, on..goes off, or is off ..and goes on at the pre set temperature. I have it set off, and it is wired to the low air warning, so that when things get near too hot..(NOT too hot!) the buzzer let's me know all about it. That one I bought in California when I was living there years (and years) ago.
The other two, well, One is a Willys ww11 clock! and the other is out of a scrapped E.R.F. I think. Old but good. (hmm, rather like ..me!).
I will take pictures tomorrow for you.
Here are some pictures. The DUAL gauge in my 530C is for engine oil, and the pressure in the extra air tank supplying the air power steering. The sender is pictured also.
 

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simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,131
9,415
113
Location
Mason, TN
I can say that my NHC250 does not like any of that bio blend crap. Especially in the B20 range. Mileage drops by almost a MPG. You feel less power from the engine and she doesn't purr or sound very happy under a load.

I noticed no better improvement over running 2 stroke vs nothing at all. I prefer to not run any additives. I did run the PowerServ cetane boost on that long 10k mileage trip because I was crossing so many fuel areas especially in winter. Once I got up into Iowa and Wisconsin the truck appreciated it a little.
 

Elijah95

Certified Rookie
1,239
1,201
113
Location
Georgia
Blew the head gasket on my 8.3, blowing compression out between the head and block on #2 of the drivers side; I need a head gasket kit ASAP! I have 5 weekends to tear it down, rebuild the head, rebuild the injectors, install all the new goodies and does anyone know where to find head studs (not bolts, I want more boost safely!) for a 8.3? Also I need a gasket set if anyone will sell one to me
 

lindsey97

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
738
16
18
Location
wynnewood, oklahoma
Radio install

DSCN3567.jpgDSCN3564.jpgDSCN3565.jpgDSCN3566.jpg

Finally got weeds back from the welding shop. Part of the radio tray is aluminum, and I have no tig. We added a few braces to stiffen the tray up, and it worked out perfectly. Glad to get my truck back. Welder was very interested, and wants a HMMWV.

I owe a big thank you to Gunzy for the sale and excellent shipment of the radio rack, also a thank you to Carnac and maddawg308 for advice on finding the different parts of the complete system. Read a lot of their posts on SS in order to complete this system. Lacking a few parts, such as a mx-7777 surge suppressor, correct antenna, and radio vinyl cover.
 
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gottaluvit

Well-known member
Got my CTIS back to working again. It had a bad control solenoid. It worked last year when I parked it but didn't work since the first time I fired it up in February's warm spell. It was flashing all five lights as soon as it ran it's pressure test and would blow air out of the threaded hole in the PCU. Pressing the runflat button only made it blow some air out of the same threaded hole for a second until it would go back to all five lights flashing (essentially shutting itself (the CTI system) down). Glowing highway light now.

20180318_175027.jpg
 
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vvwilkins

Active member
106
117
43
Location
Riverside CA
Wheel Dolly - aka- Soldier B

Fabricated a wheel dolly today. Getting ready to replace the air seals in the hubs and needed soldier B to help move the tires around (as well as all kinds of other tools - but thats a different thread....) After a trip to Industrial Metal Supply I came up with this rig. Need to add some gussets to the vertical - otherwise works well. Allows for smooth wheel removal and re-install on hub. Approximately $160 in materials including the 4" urethane/metal casters rated at 700lbs each.
Wheel Dolly 1.jpg
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
3,005
317
83
Location
Leesburg, GA
No maintenance on mine today other than a proper PMCS. Ran it hard for about 40 miles at mostly 55 mph. Surged to 60+ quite a few times but I'm trying to keep my foot out of it. The only maintenance done in the past 2 weeks has been a fuel filter change. Desplined hubs on the front are still running cool as ambient temperatures. I'm training my truck to pull the M1102 trailer full of goodies to the next GA get together. I've still got 2 14's on rims in the bed so that adds about 500 pounds or so. I did break the tamper seal on the injection pump throttle shaft and jokes on me. The injection pump shop put another tamper proof ball bearing in there. I drilled it out once before, I can do it again! Truck is running good but I would like to go 1/4 turn out to wake it back up!!!
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
3,005
317
83
Location
Leesburg, GA
Another PMCS, run it hard weekend. All fluids were fine. Same route, Hwy 300 had a strong headwind while heading south for 15 miles or so. Turned around at the pilot, stopped to feel hubs and center diffs and everything was cool. Got back on the road and it loved the tailwind while getting up to 55 mph. Ran the hills strong. It still smokes a little but it did have a long diet of 50/50 waste atf and diesel for 2 years that I'm just now breaking it from. If I had to guess, it still has about 10 gallons of atf in the tank. I just need to run it hard for a few more weekends to get the tank low low and fill it again with fresh diesel. My first attempt probably got it down to a 25 percent atf mix as I filled up at half a tank. Now the smoke under throttle looks dark grey, it idles clear for about 5 minutes and then starts going light grey in puffs at idle. Thanks to this forum, I've learned alot. NHC's need to be treated like old school diesels. My experience with multifuels did me a dis-service as they were much more tolerant to idling and mixed fuel. The NHC-250 wants to warm up slowly but be driven as hard as the load / speed limit will allow and sip straight diesel. It has actually been quite rewarding watching it improve. I did some research on "Wet Stacking" and I was the culprit! I have adjusted my driving habits and use of the truck.
 

Elijah95

Certified Rookie
1,239
1,201
113
Location
Georgia
Pulled my head today, due to pitting around cylinder 1-2 on the head I’m sending it off to be machined and new valve seals installed. More money. *sigh*
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
334
83
Location
Livonia, MI
sc glad you stayed. I’ve always liked your avatar pic with the cover on, kid, and the angle.

Elijah, maybe I have not kept up. What lead you to pull the head? Is the pitting in the gasket surface area or just combustion chamber? How about the block?
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,131
9,415
113
Location
Mason, TN
Busy Week. Swapped out two of the 280X u joints on my jackshaft. They had some play from that intense angle.

Swapped my engine feed line over to the larger tank, ran the return line to that tank. Switched the pump to transfer from drivers side to passengers side. Installed the 12v fuel gauge in the dash for the M915 sender unit since it would not work with the standard gauge. Also installed a digital voltmeter display.

Had to remove the gear reduction starter off my 923 due to it failing to engage the bendix and had to put the military standard starter back on it.

Did a tire rotation on the truck. Mounted up 7 new Goodyear AT-3s on some combat wheels that I may put on my truck in the future, being that these XZL's have almost 30k on them now.

Sprayed the whole underside with a good coat of degreaser and let the sprinkler run under the truck for an hour or so.

Swapped 14 tires onto two other 923s.

Finished up the mounting/attachments for a power window regulator/motor unit for future doors.

Finished up getting a transmission swapped out on a M809 series that was a cluster ____. Still finding broken stuff. Clutch disk in 3 pieces, broken pressure plate fingers, broken pilot bearing and throwout bearing. Engine bell housing was in 2 pieces. Transmission bellhousing was broken in 7 spots and busted apart. Dented input shaft, locked up PTO, Locked up Clutch Air Pot, Broken in half jackshaft. Total mess. Installed a new clutch assembly and a brand new transmission out of a can. Had to make a new clutch pedal linkage. and NOS jackshaft. Still looking for a decent Air Pot.

Pulled the radiator, grille, and engine harness off the 915 to get ready to pull the motor.
 

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Elijah95

Certified Rookie
1,239
1,201
113
Location
Georgia
sc glad you stayed. I’ve always liked your avatar pic with the cover on, kid, and the angle.

Elijah, maybe I have not kept up. What lead you to pull the head? Is the pitting in the gasket surface area or just combustion chamber? How about the block?
Head gasket popped rather abruptly, and was blowing #2 to the outside on the driver side of the block; the pitting is mainly on #1 cylinder and slightly between 1/2 cylinder, all appears to be on the head only
 
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