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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

hgun

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Hi guys I have a question please don’t beat me up to bad I’m looking at this M813a1. The guy is telling me it’s always in 6x6 no front axel disconnect. Are they like that or is there an issue with this one? My 900 series had a switch as well as my A3. No I did not download and read the TM’S because if I don’t buy one that useless. I tried to search but no avail just curious thank you guys.
 

US6x4

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Wenatchee, WA
When they're not modified, they're always in 6x6. There's no manual front engagement switch like other models have. There's a sprag (overrun) clutch in the t-case that let's the front sorta freewheel until the rear axles start spinning faster than the front and then it engages. The pneumatics can be modified to prevent the front from engaging.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
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Location
Mason, TN
I'm considering putting a flatbed on my M814. I was wondering if any of you have done this, if so I would love to see a picture of it. I think it would be more functional since the 20'cargo beds don't have fold down sides , but I don't want to do it if it makes the truck look all funny since I've never seen one if these with a flatbed. Thanks to anyone who may respond with a picture.
The 20ft iso beds have removable sides
 

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fuzzytoaster

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Fort Worth, Texas
I've inadvertently gotten into beekeeping this week with one of my 5 tons. The bees have been impressively busy for only such a short time but allegedly this isn't the first time for this truck to attract a swarm. Fortunately, one of my guys had the equipment and experience to relocate them safely and score some fresh honey in the process. He was able to grab 10 frame of comb for the hive, max he could carry out, and the rest was for an afternoon treat.
 

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Wreckclues

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Jefferson, Massachusetts
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Began patching and rust remediation. Want to get this rig on the road ASAP so until my welding skills improve I'm experimenting with Loctite Tite Foam for big gaps. It's sandable and paintable but I'll likely have to skim coat it before the finish coat. Used cardboard to create a gap between the inner and outer surfaces but in retrospect it would have been easier to have applied the foam from within. Haven't sanded it yet, but so far it seems to be the real deal. Ultimately I'll replace the fenders but for now this gets me down the road...and next time I'll read the directions because two days later I'm still pealing this stuff of my hands, gotta get me some acetone.

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Mullaney

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Location
Charlotte NC
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Began patching and rust remediation. Want to get this rig on the road ASAP so until my welding skills improve I'm experimenting with Loctite Tite Foam for big gaps. It's sandable and paintable but I'll likely have to skim coat it before the finish coat. Used cardboard to create a gap between the inner and outer surfaces but in retrospect it would have been easier to have applied the foam from within. Haven't sanded it yet, but so far it seems to be the real deal. Ultimately I'll replace the fenders but for now this gets me down the road...and next time I'll read the directions because two days later I'm still pealing this stuff of my hands, gotta get me some acetone.

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Well... I really gotta see how this stuff "sands out".
I mean it doesn't need to be showroom quality...
 

Wreckclues

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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615
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Location
Jefferson, Massachusetts
Locktite Foaming Filler for Big Gaps Update;

Success, this stuff works. Although it's sand-able and paint-able best practice is to skim coat with filler. The product is porous and absorbs sprayed paint, takes allot of paint to fill the pores. I'm currently experimenting with brushed on paint elsewhere on the rig.
Please no 5-Ton Barbie cracks, although oddly striking it was just an undercoat. This is a "cleaning-out-the-workshop-rattlecan-restoration...ish-project" and I'm using up leftovers before the finish coat. The finish coat is Rustoleum Camouflage, which is a pretty good match to whatever my patina is after 47 years of weathering., some parts look blueish others look green with one door in desert sand.

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Mullaney

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Charlotte NC
Not my 5-Ton but Youtube Casey's Offroad Recovery posted a video showing him changing the tire on his rig.
I'm putting together my tire changing kit, what size jack-stands should I be looking for?

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5 Ton Jack Stands will work well for a 5-Ton truck.

Be careful / Be aware that if you go to Harbor Freight, there is a RECALL
 

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Mullaney

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Charlotte NC
So I don't have to worry about supporting the full weight of the rig?
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Correct.

Then you need to consider that how high do you need to lift the truck... I may be "chicken" but I never raise the center part of the jack stand more than half way. If you need more height, the next step up is a 7-Ton stand. Makes a wider base and adds about 50% height.
 

Jbulach

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Location
Sunman Indiana
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5 Ton Jack Stands will work well for a 5-Ton truck.

Be careful / Be aware that if you go to Harbor Freight, there is a RECALL
If I thinking correctly I think jack stands are rated per pair? If so 5 ton stands could be too light for a 5 ton truck depending on which axle, cargo load and truck variant.
 

Mullaney

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If I thinking correctly I think jack stands are rated per pair? If so 5 ton stands could be too light for a 5 ton truck depending on which axle, cargo load and truck variant.
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So I went out in the shop. Got a pair of mine sitting in the screen room. Pictures attached. I purchased these when I left the company I worked for. We worked on the 5-Tons and Deuces at that place of business. Didn't really remember if they "were weighted" in pairs or not. So..... I went out on the web to look it up. I found six ton stands - by MatCoTools rather than Mac and under SPECIFICATIONS - you are right @Jbulach . X Tons Per Pair.

Having said that though, I spent enough years using these stands to know that even with a derrick mounted on the back I wouldn't believe they would be overloaded.

As mentioned in #9,757 though, I would definitely NOT extend the "stand" but about half as high as what you see here.


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